Windsor Newton Water-mixable Oils

Dear ???

Windsor Newton Water-mixable Oils seem to be higher regarded and referenced...
(see TrainMasters.TV weathering series by Mike Confalone)

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Another option within the

Another option within the Windsor& Newton line is their Winton Oil Colour oils. I used Turpenoid as the thinner as it does not have the strong odor associated with Turpentine or mineral spirits.

One application is to apply small "dots" of the oil and then pull a brush having been dipped into the Turpeniod, through the oil dot producing a streak effect. A good example is rust streaks or fuel dripping down the fuel tank around the filler neck.

Dots of oil can also become rust areas around roof hatches on covered hoppers or tank cars, too. Here I employ a brush damp with Turpenoid to merely wet the oil and let it spread out on the roof hatch area. These processes work for lateral rust streaks as well.

The last process I use is for fade and surface rust: freight car and/or locomotive roofs. I apply a suitable size "dab" of the oil on a foiled covered piece of wood. I then use a white dense foam make up removal pad to apply the oil to the roof. Using prototype photos as a guide, I move the sponge along the roof line till I get the area effect I want. As I move the pad around, the effect diminishes as the oil is deposited. But this is what you want.

For a rusty curved roof, I start with a light grey with the the deepest color at the top. It becomes more faint as I move down the side till we are in untouched paint. If I want to simulate rust, I use an appropriate color such as sienna to repeat the process letting the rust fade into the previous faded area.  You can even add an area of deep rust by using a much smaller application of burnt umber at the top.

It is all about transition. Deep to faint. And if you are not pleased, wipe it off and start again.

Informative and very

Informative and very realistic looking. Thanks for sharing.

I agree, Deem, as that effect...........

.........is hard to do with acrylic or chalk.

Peter

Nice Medium

Oils seem to be the weathering paint of choice by some of the best modeler’s out there based on images I have seen.  The only negative is the drying time required but given the results it is worth it.

Plan on cutting my teeth by weathering a boxcar or two.  Once comfortable I have a Missouri Pacific GP7 that I need to transfer from new to a well worn and old workhorse.

Joe

Peter, I'm seriously

Peter, I'm seriously considering this route for some future projects after I finish working on my new module.

Oil thoughts

Windsor & Newton products are nice. I also use Gamblin 1980 brand and Dick Blick has a full line as well.  To me all equal.  I dont like the water soluble myself but I think that is just personal preference.  I use cheap odorless thinner for mine with no issue.   I use oils for fades and weathering including rust and streaks.  I also mix pastels with oils occasionally for thick grease build up.  They work nice for streaking paint as it washes away as well.  

All the effects on the CR SDP45 are done with oils. The initial fade, then the rust and grime.  The grease build up and the spray paint through the numbers.  The only acrylics are used on the green tarp over the exhaust.

For heavy rust streaks oils can not be beat. Using several colors and some thinned more than others a 3d effect is created adding depth. The heavy rust patches here are oils and pastels mixed to a paste.

Even more subtle effects can be achieved, like the fiberglass fading and deteriorating from the sun on this coil car.

They are worth your money and time to experiment with.  Like one of the posts above said, if you dont like it they come off easy.  I put a little of what ever colors I want on a little plastic pallet so I can mix or thin them.  They can sit out and be brought back to life with a little thinner for several days.  I would reccomend clear coat before you start just to protect the base paint and lettering from the thinner.  Also to p[rovide some tooth for the weathering.

Try them out, show us how you did,  Steve

Great pictures.

Steve: Love the way you did it. Maybe a bit too much for me. But the effect of your rust is very realistic. And for the PC, perfect.  I'd like to see as many others as can post here. Interesting to say the least. Oils are easier to use than acylics, and IMHO make a better rust and such. However, the acrylics are far cheaper and more readily available. I do have oils and will be trying them. ? When? Who knows, but this thread is definitely worth saving or bookmarking for future use.

better view

This shows the faded fiberglass better.  I try to mix colors or subtly change colors frequently and that is easy with oils also.

A couple more here:

Once again the fade and weathering plus streaks on letters are all oils.

Good luck, Steve

Morgan

Thanks,   I agree acrylics are cheap and I use a bunch. But not much for weathering.   Oils may cost a little more but are used sparingly so the last a long time.   Hopefully you guys will try them.  I know my taste are more extreme than most guys here but it gives you an idea of some of the effects possible.

Oils and Turp

M. Graham transparent orange oxide oil with Grumbacher turpentine used along the top.

 Windsor & Newton raw umber along the bottom sill.

@modeltruckstop and @RickSutton

Very nice work; thanks for sharing!

Thanks

Hopefully some members will give it a try.  The results will be worth it. 
 

Steve

Ditto

What   Modeltruckshop said. It's a lot of fun!

Fading

I think I understand the process for using oils to create rust streaks and general grime. What technique is used for the faded paint look?

David

Faded paint

There's a technique I learned awhile back from another Interweb forum where you take "soft mixing white" Artist's oil paint and put it on a bit heavy one the side of a car with one brush, then take a larger, wider, softer brush and repeatedly stroke up/down on the side removing the oil paint. Take yet another wider, fan brush and repeat the process taking off still more oil paint. What's left is a soft white haze that very realistically takes a glossy, out-of-the-box finish and turns it into nicely faded paint. I personally like using oil paints because it gives you quite a bit of working time before it even thinks of drying.

I believe it was on The Rustbucket forum and titled "Jeremy's Dry Brush Technique".

Abteilung or Wilder Oil Paints

I think I know exactly what you're talking about. Here's what the military modelers use that are designed specifically for plastics as opposed to canvas application. They are expensive though.

https://abteilung502.com/product/vehicle-weathering-and-effects-set/

https://www.wilder.su/collections/weathering-oils

NF

Mike Confalone weathering videos

Take a look at Mike Confalone’s series of weathering videos. He uses a number of mediums, including oils and Pan Pastel pigments to get a variety of effects. The results are stunning, but he makes it look so easy. Well worth a look.

Weathered with oils

I weathered this ex Santa Fe  [now Guilford] SD26 with oils. Having used acrylics and oils I'd have to say I prefer the working time of the oils, but boy, did it take a while to dry - even with thinners.

I had one instance where thinners started removing painted lettering on a hopper, so I'm pretty wary of oils, although they don't care if the surface is greasy or not.

A little powdered chalk/pastels can work well to help dull down or add mild texture if sprinkled onto the damp oil paint.

WOW Steve very cool

WOW Steve very cool effects...thank you..love the conrail loco

MIke C in Qld very nice

MIke C in Qld very nice scenerey work thank you for the reply awesome photos 

thank you to all for reply

thank you to all for reply and great photos...I have done some weathering will share photos asap