brubaben

Concrete Sewer Pipe Load in a Weekend

r%20Pipe.jpg 

Recently while browsing the local Habitat for Humanity store, I came across an interesting plumbing part.  It was small with three openings. I thought to myself, what if I made this into a flatcar load.  It might just make an interesting piece.  I grab the plumbing part and headed for the counter.  Twenty-seven cents later, I was started on a weekend modeling project.

Plumbing.jpg 

The fitting is a 1 inch to 3/4 inch adaptor with a threaded 1/2 off to one side.  I don't think I have ever seen one like this before.  After testing the fit on a flat car and checking with the standards gauge, I decided to shave off some of the protruding 1/2 inch leg.  I also drilled out the threads and scuffed it up with some 80 grit sandpaper.

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I mixed up some concrete colored paint and started to cover the inside and outside of the "sewer pipe".  I intentionally left brush marks to show molding lines from the concrete casting process.  I did not scuff up the inside and the paint did not want to stick very well.  Note for next time:  acrylic paint does not stick well to smooth and shiny PVC.

Concrete.jpg 

I fashion some blocking from 1/8 square balsa strips.  A little CA glue held everything together.  After fitting, I wrapped a dowel in sandpaper and made a concave recess for the front of the pipe to sit down into.

Blocking.jpg 

 

I made some eye bolts out or thin wire held with pliers and twisted around a small drill bit.  These were superglued into the stake pockets on the flatcar.  I picked this car up at a garage sale for $3 and it is unmarked so I don't feel too bad gluing things to the deck.  I needed to replace one coupler box and then add one new #5 coupler.  I tuned the wheelsets and gave it a standard weathering job.  It is now a great running car.

I picked up some very small black chain at the local Joanne Fabric store.  With the coupon, I now have 100 inches of chain for only $2.50.  I might have used 12 inches on this project.  The chain is shiny black.  I tried to weather it with dry brushing and chalks.  Next time I might use spray paint or at least apply some Dullcoat.  

I weathered the sewer pipe with a whitewash and some dirt chalk.  I applied a black wash to the wood blocking.

Rigging.jpg 

The blocking and sewer pipe are attached with hot melt glue.  The chain was threaded through the eye bolts and secured with a drop of CA glue.  I am not an expert on load rigging.  This load passed inspection by the company foreman.  A dusting of chalk was applied to blend everything together.

I spend a few hours over a couple of days and I ended up with a unique load for my layout.  The scale size is 20 feet long in HO.  The large end diameter is 12 feet, and the smaller end is 10 feet across.  Probable model for a city sewage plant or large dry well system.  The total cost was very minimal for the results.  It is always nice to actually complete a railroad project that I started.  

Reply 0
Bob_A

Looking Good

Impressive.  The chain rigging is somewhat basic but plausible.  A pair of A-frame braces on the ends to prevent fore and aft movement would not be out of order and still easy to add at this stage.  And if the foreman has signed off, then it is between him and the bean counters.  I would suggest some "Do Not Hump" signage, but otherwise it will make a good looking move on your layout.  

Bob

Reply 0
Rook2324

Like it and it's inexpensive

Nice inexpensive project and it didn't take you too long.  I see some ads for loads for flat cars and they are not cheap. This gives me a good idea for a quick project that doesn't cost a lot. 

Reply 0
Deemiorgos

Innovative and realistic to

Innovative and realistic to boot. Well done.

Reply 0
ctxmf74

MH's and stuff

Large diameter MH's are usually cast in sections, a bottom, some number of riser rings to get the depth needed , a reducing cone  to get to rim size and a metal rim. I've never seen a complete cast MH like the model but I have seen prefabed cement plant and other industrial steel components that look much like that so I'd be inclined to paint such a creation some primer color maybe add some number or info decals and say it's heading to a new or rebuilding plant somewhere.....DaveB

Reply 0
dperry

I like it

Looks good to me.  Nice to know about scuffing the surface for acrylic paint.

Everyone is entitled to an opinion. It's rather a shame that not everyone keeps it to themselves. That's my opinion.
Reply 0
brubaben

A Frames

Bob:

Do you have a photo of what you are talking about for reference?

Thanks for the comment and advice.

Reply 0
Bob_A

Bracing

In looking back over your pictures the cross piece at the wide end would serve the purpose.  You just need something at the narrow end to prevent longitudinal movement.  

OTLR Library (aar.org)  A glorious rabbit hole if you are so inclined.

AAR Open Top Loading Rules Manual—Section 3  Something similar to what you have.

Pictures of KRL 70004 (rrpicturearchives.net) An actual load.  Note the steel bracing at against the saddles.  For your load, wood blocking is just as practical.  

Accessory Decals HO Scale: "DO NOT HUMP" labels White, Yellow & Black HO Scale (highballgraphics.com) Do Not Hump Decals.

I do like what you have done.  A good old school dollar car project that will look good in any operating session.  

Bob

Reply 0
davidellinger77

I did this

Back in college I loaded lge sewer Pipe in Dayton, OH for Price Brothers, a Canadian based company.  Would build 4x4 "Bolsters", nail them to the flatbed and strap them in with 2" wide steel binding straps.  And of course always posted the "Do Not Hump" notifications...which our college minds found pretty amusing

Reply 0
arkyflyer

Looks great!

Good tips, also! A < i> lazy< /i> man (me?) would turn the side connector to be facing up, saving any trimming of the original. Clearances are more tolerant for height than width. Of course, more/different support/cribbing would probably be required. Check with the foreman or company engineer. 

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