Tutorial Instructions:
I have decided to do this build to the extreme, if you should choose to do so, the end result will be a turnout that would normally be found on a spur or customer siding or on a lightly used branch or secondary. The general techniques will be the same for every turnout panel you wish to build no matter the intended use or railroad location. This specific build that the tutorial entails is a #6 turnout, with a RBM type frog, in Code 70 rail. The ties will be weathered to depict as described above. Optional steps are completely up to the builder. The build will consist of phases, and in each phase there will be a tools list and materials list for that phase. I recommend building of the CVT track system in place on your layout as opposed to on the bench. That said, I will not cover roadbed or sub-roadbed. The tutorial turnout is built on a piece of 1" x 4" pine board.
PHASE I: CVT TIE STRIP BASE PREP
RECOMMENDED TOOLS:
- Razor Saw
- Razor Blade
- Rustoleum Plastic Compatible Spray Paint:
- Satin Stone Grey
- Flat White Primer
- Caulking Gun
- LocTite Power Grab All Purpose 9 Fl Oz
- Scrap of Styrene at least 0.040 thick, grooved at one end with a triangle file
- Mineral Spirits in a small jar
- Oil Based Artist's Paint
- Winton brand, Burnt Umber
- Mixing Palette
- Brush for applying washes
MATERIALS LIST:
- Central Valley Turnout Tie Strip
- 2 Turnout Length Wooden Ties
- (Optional) CVT Mainline or Branchline Tie Strips
STEP 1, PREPARE ALL TIE STRIPS:
Using the razor saw, run it along all the plastic ties to give the impression of a wood grain. This step is optional, as the CVT strips already have a wood grain molded in. I just wanted to give the ties a more neglected look.
At this point, if you are choosing to install your turnout on a curve, there are plastic bracing webs that need to be cut on the Turnout tie strip so that you can flex it to fit the curve. Use the razor blade or Xacto knife to accomplish this.
STEP 2, GLUE TO YOUR ROADBED(CORK, HOMASOTE, OR OTHER STURDY MATERIAL RECOMMENDED):
It is recommended that there be a track centerline drawn where you are intending to install the tie strips. There are guide tabs on the tie strips that facilitate installation along a track centerline.
Using the caulking gun and LocTite Power Grab, run a bead of adhesive along the centerline.
With the homemade styrene spatula, spread the adhesive as shown. Track centerline should still be slightly visible.
After spreading the adhesive, you are ready to lay the tie strips.
Before the adhesive dries, and without disturbing the tie strips, cut the plastic throwbar web from the CV turnout strip using a sharp razor blade.
Replace the plastic throwbar web with the two wooden ties. These are your headblocks for the switchstand. Install them skewed to whatever side you intend the switchstand to be on. Use the LocTite Power Grab sparingly to glue the ties in place. The choice to use the LocTite Power Grab, specifically, means that there is little to no need for clamping or weighting the tie strips to hold them until the adhesive sets.
STEP 3, PRIMING PAINT COAT:
Using the Rustoleum Spray paints, spray an even coat of the White primer and then overspray the Stone Grey in random spots.
***Allow to dry at least 24 hours before the next step.***
STEP 4, OIL WASHES:
For this step you will need the Burnt Umber oil paint and the small jar of mineral spirits. On your mixing palette of choice(mine is an old lid), mix a medium wash of paint and mineral spirits. Apply the wash liberally over all the tie strips. Allow 24 hours dry time between washes, should you prefer a "less worn" look.
For the final wash I use Micro Mark Bridge and Tie Stain. It helps tone down the shine and adds subtle black and grey creosote look.
End of tie strip prep phase