2 known manufacturers

So here are the 2 manufacturers that I know of, and have samples of.
1) Du-Bro https://www.dubro.com/
https://www.dubro.com/collections/push-rods-accessories/products/micro-push-rod-system

2) Sullivan, control rods
http://sullivanproducts.com/product-category/control-rods/

Does anyone else know of other manufacturers?

I put "manual control of turnouts" in the search box here @ MRH.

I got references to 9 threads.  I tried to copy/paste the links, but that function does not seem to work.

DU-BRO

One of the things I like about their 30" micro pushrod system is its solid inner wire and its small overall outer diameter . The rod is quoted as .032", and I measure the outer diameter of the housing as .070".

This means it can be mounted right on upper surface of the deck, and still snake between and BELOW the ties of other tracks mounted directly on the deck surface as well. It can reach those turnouts that are slightly out of reach WITHOUT having to be attached to the underside of the deck. And it can snake under some tracks that might be located between the edge of the layout and the sought out turnout.
 

 
https://www.dubro.com/collections/push-rods-accessories/products/micro-push-rod-system

I imagine that vertical bent end there would not even have to be led up thru the existing center hole in the turnout's tie bar, but might be quite happy just bound to some other portion of that tie bar.

PS: that one fitting that comes in the pkg with this product looks like this image,..

@Russ

I believe I looked thru a number of those older references, but thought a new subject thread might bring up newer materials (besides I have been chastised in the past for bring up old subject thread...ha...ha.). In my search thru those threads i found a number of different and interesting attachment and mounting methods for these cable systems. I fully expect some of those images to come forward as image links.

Sullivan Gold-N-Cable

I guess it might be said that this is Sullivan's answer to a very small diameter, and very flexible system. It also uses a .032" inner cable that is a multistrand cable rather than a solid rod,...thus the name. Its outer diameter is slightly less at approx .06X"
http://sullivanproducts.com/product/032-brass-plated-ss-very-flexible/

Twice as expensive as the Du-Bro size for size,.....not so high on my list.

Oops I missed this solid rod version of theirs,....
http://sullivanproducts.com/product/solid-steel-rod/
"S587 – .025 High Tensile Rating Music Wire, Z-Bend, 36″ length, 12″ Minimum Radius, 1 set per package"
$3.74 each

Sullivan Gold-N-Rods

This would be another favorite on mine, buy it is one that needs to be attached to the underside of the deck. Very robust and very smooth. Also comes in 40" lengths in addition to 36"
http://sullivanproducts.com/product/2-56-nylon-flexible-gold-n-rods/

That inner core material appears good enough to anchor a piece of music wire directly drilled thru  it. More on this idea later.

Subsequent Experiment:
I experimented with that idea of drilling a hole thru the yellow core then placing a tight fitting piece of music wire thru it, and long enough to reach up thru the 1" thick deck to the Peco turnout above. I was NOT pleased with the result.

EDIT: The problem was I was not able to get a 'rigid' vertical wire mounted in the plastic tube.

Brian -

Your last pic above is exactly what I've used to control my Blue Point switch "machines". The Golden Rods work very well, and take lots of bends easily without resistance. All you need, as you said, it sufficient anchor points under the layout to keep it from kinking when under compression (aka pushing).

Under the table

The vast majority of my switches are controlled by pushrods made of 1/4" dowels under the layout.

I wonder if something as

I wonder if something as simple as this could anchor that bigger cable,..

...or even a spot of hotmelt glue,.... particularly if we were looking for the outer housing cable to be virtually right next to the deck's underside?

Wonder if hotmelt glue would distort the red outer tube?

"Cable clips"

....or whatever their true name is, is EXACTLY what I used, along with left over copper tubing hoops, where I used a wooden dowel instead.

@Dave

What type of switches,...and how do you get the activation motion up top??

Securing cables on the underside

I wrote the Sullivan company a note asking if they might suspect whether hot melt glue might be a little harsh on the sheathing of their tubes? If so there are a number of other methods to attach those cables to the underside of the plywood deck...little blocks of wood or my trusty foamed PVC with a hole for the cables, then glued to the plywood.

Wood dowels have been mentioned, and I am sure these are find if one has a straight and unimpeded shot to the turnout. Even while I am cantilevered I still have some obstacles to work around, so those flexible cables will come in handy. And I have a couple of steel frame members that would be very difficult to drill through, but I can just bend over them.

Linkage to the PecoTurnouts from Underneath the Deck Plywood

Linkage to the PecoTurnouts from Underneath the Deck Plywood

I've covered above those 2 small-diameter cable systems that could laid down on the upper surface of the deck to easily connect to one end of the cross points bar, or even to the center of that bar, to throw the turnout.

The underneath situation is a bit more difficult as a result of my desire,.. I would like to have vertical mechanism consist of a rod within a tube rather than an enlarged hole where a rod would swing within a slot, or move laterally across a slot. This piratically dictates that the control rod does NOT come up thru that center hole that exist in the throw bar. Why would I not want this arrangement?
a) Having an enlarged hole for the vertical member does not impart the most positive movement.
b) Having a firm slot requires the turnout be located exactly over that slot in the plywood from day one,...no fudging around to eventually get the best adjoining track alignments.

I would like to place my tracks and turnouts down and tweak their alignments, before I have to provide that hole for the vertical rod. Only then would I need to drill that hole for the vertical tube that will house that vertical post. That tube will be a tight fit in the ¾' thick plywood, and allow the free rotation of that vertical rod/post. The vertical rod/post will have at least two 90degree bends in its top portion that will engage that center hole in the turnouts throw bar, and/or some other portion of the throw bar,...something like these...
 
( a bit complicated)
 

( I like these two, but the hole would not be thru that tie,...rather between them)

(I like this peco one,...neat !)
 

 
(But can that vertical rod/wire be bent neatly after its dropped in from the top?)

I can then come along from the topsides, drill the holes for these rod/post tubes, then drop those rods into their tubes,...all while the turnouts are firmly seated in their place.

Then comes the task of how to join that straight bottom rod/post with the cables that will rotate them,...that is the remaining factor to work out.

Straight Shot or Bent?

Hi Railandsail,

If the turnout is parallel(0-30 degrees) to the front of the layout, use the plastic goldenrods.  They flex enough to do the job.  Purchase the longest ones you can get...you may be able to get multiple turnouts of each rod.

If the turnout is not parallel(30-90 degrees) to the front of the layout, use the cable in sheath type.  They go around corners very well and eliminate those pesky bellcranks and their adjustments.  The metal cables are not as easy to work with...but are a durable, long lasting product.

A classic

Courtesy of the late great Jack Trollope aka Shortliner.

Automotive parts store will

likely have 1/8" dia. nylon tubing in a roll used for connecting a mechanical oil pressure gauge.  Find a suitable size wire that will slide inside this and you can make your own control cable any length you need.  You will be able to snake it around within reason.

Hotmelt Glue Adhesive

I wrote the Sullivan company a note asking if they might suspect whether hot melt glue might be a little harsh on the sheathing of their tubes?

Here is the reply I received this morning,
 

Sullivan and hot glue

The Sullivan Gold-n-Rod system is what Fast Tracks sells to control their Bullfrog throws (except without the clevises -- I have a blog thread about that). I can confirm that hot-melt glue does not damage the linkage, and I use it liberally to prevent the sheath from sliding. The inner rod takes a 2-56 thread, and that's how you attach stuff to the ends.

It goes around bends *to a certain extent* -- too tight a radius will kink the sheath. Whether that's a problem depends on whether you have constraints on where on the fascia you mount the control knob relative to the turnout. I have a few places where I've resorted to mounting the Bullfrog facing backwards, then looped the Gold-n-Rod around to enter it from the correct side. Since I'm fussy about the maintaining consistency between direction of throw and control motion, I have to add a bell crank to the control path in such cases.

Here is a picture of one of my installations. This is for a cross-over, but it shows how well the rod bends, and if you zoom in you can see where I've applied hot glue to the guides:

Bullfrog

https://www.handlaidtrack.com/bullfrogs.

I used that design to build my own using wooden dowels, steel leader fishing tackle, jumbo paper clip and clothes pins.

Terry

Golden Rods for Turnout Controls

I’m in the process of setting up my turnouts using Golden Rods ($9/48” pair) and slide switches.  The switches I use are from Radio Shack and cost $3 per pair (https://www.radioshack.com/products/pk2-slide-spst-sw?variant=20332083205).  The rods came with clevises and 2-56 threaded studs which are long enough to cut in half to double your supply.  The studs thread right into the inner rod and hold tight.  I use the clevises on the switch control to attach the inner rod end and apply Lock Tite blue to the studs for that.  The clevises are modified for 2-56 screws and nuts to attach to the switch.  The other end of the rod extends through the facia and is attached to a wood drawer pull ($.95 at Home Depot).  I use .032” piano wire to attach the switch to the turnout.  I have a 3D printer that I used to make clamps for the rod covers but hot glue would work great.  I also used the printer to make a fulcrum that the piano wire extends up through.  I think this could be easily done with a drill bit where you would drill straight down and then lean the bit side to side in the hole to create an X shaped slot that forms the fulcrum. The fulcrum provides positive control for the control wire.  My first attempt at doing this set-up took some fiddling but it works great and the switch provides a very positive lock in both directions.  I think my turnout controls cost a total of less than $6.00 per turnout.  Just for reference I model On30.

- Tom

I used a Rix products pivot

I used a Rix products pivot underneath and attached the Golden rod connector tube to the pivot using and RC connector. This uses the Peco spring in the switch and the Rix allows you to adjust where the rod connects for more leverage. the linkage below is similar but I have found metal ones with 2-56 threading. The 2-56 threaded rod threads right into the inner tube of the Golden rod. All of this (except the Rix) is from a local RC store.

https://rixproducts.com/product/rix-p-t-l-pivoting-turnout-linkage/

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWH32&P=0

Cheap and simple

I make my Peco point controls from 1 mm piano wire and a microswitch. The wire is prevented from kinking by running it through 1 or 2 short sections of brass tubing spaced at intervals [photo 1]. For a switch close to the fascia, the wire needs to be pre-bent so that both ends are approximately horizontal [photo 2]. A push-pin with pin removed serves as a knob at the fascia [photo 3] (the look could be improved with a fancier knob).

I have tortoises, cobalts and servos on my layout as well as plenty of the above manual controls. I have had occasional failures with the machines over 12 years or so, but none with the home made controls. KISS!

I model in N scale but the principle is the same for HO.

Tony in Gisborne, Australia

KISS principles

@Tony,

I've been playing around with a few of those KISS principles myself the last few days, particularly that connection between the control cable and the turnout throw bar. I've come up with a number of slightly different ideas and materials. Still working on some additional ideas.

Most of my newer ideas DO NOT include that vertical post/rod riding in a tube placed into the plywood deck as I was quite in favor of at one time,...got to be willing to accept new and/or other ideas before selecting the final one.

I also think that one singular idea may not be used for all the turnouts on my layout. There are pluses and minuses for certain locations and obstacles.

I also have one other advantage in simplification, in that I am NOT trying to electrify mine at all,..just going to let the in-out position of the fascia knob tell me which way the turnout is thrown.

Hickcups

This has turned into a bit more of a problem that I foresaw. The cabling not so much, there is a lot of options out there.

It is the end fitting that is the problem area,...connecting the cable to the vertical post/wire/ whatever that moves the turnout's throw bar. Mine needs to reach up thru the 3/4" plywood deck and the approx 1/4" cork roadbed to the throwout bar,....1" plus tall. You would think a stiff piece of piano wire with a 90 degree bend in it would do the job?

But wait a minute, that upper joint (wire within a hole) needs to be the slightest bit 'loose fitting' so as not to bind. Then if the bottom is not dead on tight in the vertical direction you get a little too much slop in the situation,...particularly working against the spring action of the stock Peco turnout.

I'm glad I thought I should mock this up full scale as I have found faults I never anticipated,...back to the drawing board.