Yes... (don't overthink it...)

Dear Patrick,

With utmost respect, Yes, you are making this harder than it needs to be.

Assuming:
- both turnouts are INSULfrog (IE "plastic tipped" frog, isolated/independent electrical routes thru frog)
- both turnouts are within the same "block" (either Analog or DCC, does not matter)

then all you need do is:

- use Normal Metal joiners where the heel diverging-routes of the turnouts connect
(IE the "crossover" bit between the two presumably-parallel "main tracks")

- Feed power to BOTH rails at the TOE (the "switchrail end") of both turnouts.
(As a standing rule, always feed power to any turnout from the TOE end).

In the diagram below:
- THICK RED or BLACK arrows are direct feeds from the relevant DCC/Track Buss
- Thin RED or BLACK arrows are OPTIONAL direct feeds from the relevant DCC/Track Buss
- GREEN arrows simply/only indicate "these tracks proceed to rest of layout"

This is the minimum which will get you full-operation thru both "running lines" and the "crossover" route between the running lines. Go ahead and trace the power FROM the feed positions, thru the _Continuous_ metal rails,
to make it clear in your mind how and where the power is routing.

For additional power-surety, esp on DCC, add a power feed to the diverging rail of the straight-route _beyond_ the HEEL of the turnouts. (These are the "Thin" power feeds shown on the diagram). 

This will eliminate the only "switched power, relies on switchrail<> stockrail contact" part of the turnout array,
which is GOOD and RECCOMENDED for DCC,
but may reduce your ability to "park a loco" beyond the HEEL of either turnout on _Analog_...
 

I hope this helps,...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Thanks Prof...

Thanks Prof! That is the way I have them wired. I way over thought this. Thanks for your time in answering this question. Yes, I always feed power from the toe end on every turnout, plus any necessary other feeders. They are great turnouts. I mix mine with Atlas turnouts. I have added extra feeders to them at times. Thanks again!

Just for Reference

The DCCWiki shows how the Insulfrog works. It's pretty simple but there is a lot of mythology out there regarding the Peco turnouts. One of the secrets of the Insulfrog is to make sure that the point rails have insulated rail joiners to avoid that dreaded short at the heel of the frog where a wheel tread can bridge across the point rails there. Many electrons have been disturbed over the years on that issue, with all manner of complicated solutions. 

All for nought anyway as the Unifrog will be slowly replacing the Electro- and Insulfrogs.

All for nought anyway as

Very slowly from the looks of things.

Peco and Unifrogs...

SOP for Peco is to announce that something will be available "in the summer".  They just don't say which year that summer will occur.

As tooling wears out, the product line will be retired and replaced by the new Unifrog. So it could be a while for some products

IIRC, the Unifrogs have been

IIRC, the Unifrogs have been on their public plans for at least a couple years now.  If the tooling lasts, it could be another year, or two or more.  In other words, don't hold your breath or hold plans for layout building.

A small word of caution.  The Uni-frog have a similar design as the insulfrog in that wide treads could short out the two rails where they come close together.  The main difference is the Uni-frog has a metal frog and the insulfrog is plastic.  Anyone with shorting issues with insulfrog may have them with Unifrog.  Personally I"m making electrofrog hay while it is available.

Hi Patrick...

One small add to the Prof - example.  If you think you may want signals & detection at a later stage, and to further bullet-proof the Peco turnouts, wire a set of feeders to bridge both the stock rail & point rails.

This overcomes the issue of the power being picked up and routed via the points only.  It also allows the turnout to be its own block for detection purposes as it would be isolated at either end, and in the case of a crossover like yours the diverging route would also be isolated in between turnouts.  Much easier to do this step now, than later on if you have already laid all your track...

You can also read it here, on my blog:

Peco Bullet Proof Wiring...

Jas.

@jas

But doesn't that type of wiring defeat the 'wide-wheel' shorting problems that can occur on the frogs of those insulafrog turnouts?

The little tabs just after the tie block

There are little tabs under the switch rails near the point.  Depending on how the switch is aligned, the switch rail is powered and its associated point rail as well.  After all, the Insulfrog is power routing.

You have to keep those tabs clean for reliable operation.  Shorting the stock rail to the switch rail is a solution, but it introduces an new one, as now the point rails are always energized and a wheel can bridge them.

Point rails vs Frog Rails?

I believe you have this terminology incorrect. If you take a look at Allan Gartner's  site and dwgs I think you will find the difference in point rails and frog rails.

No. Point rails form the frog.

No, the diagram is incorrect.

The point rails form the frog, along with the wing rails. Today most prototype frogs are a one piece casting, so they don't really use the point and wing rails to form them.

Direction of travel is determined by the switch rails, often incorrectly called point rails because they are often referred to as "points", as one end is pointed like a blade.

There are many misleadingly labelled diagrams out there which only serve to confuse, because they take a mix and match approach to their terminology. 

Even NMRA documents mention switch rails and the frog point rails. Their diagram in NMRA Technical Note TN-12 doesn't match the one you found. 

Powering the Insulfrog turnout...

In my situation because I have detection for signalling I isolate the turnout so that it is it’s own seperate detected block.

This ensures the turnout has power, I feed it from this small gap in the Insulfrog, the added advantage is it also stops the switch rails relying only on the points to route power, and also if the mechanical pivot gets a dodgy connection after time I’m still getting power to most of the turnout.

You may still get the “wide” wheel shorting across the frog gap even with this wiring.  Some black enamel paint, or nail polish will do the trick too.

Diagram Incorrect?

Really?  I was under the impression that most everything on his site was spot on??