Generally,

at the radius you describe, and with no grades, I don't believe superelevation buys you much.  Unless you're actually taking quality video of trains as they run, no one will ever notice it.  The lean will only be perceptible for those few who know what it is.  Over doing it, which is easy, can degrade reliability due to the tendency for cars to rock as they transition into and out of the superelevated curves.

Summary, great for looks, not so much for ops.  If you value reliability over photogenics, skip it.

Just my 2 cents, in beaverbucks (loonies)

Blair

Aesthetics

As Blair said, you probably don’t need it functionally, but it sure adds to the appearance.  I have 30” minimum radius and most are larger...the trains lean into the curves and look great.  I get quite a few comments about it.

Adding it is easy...I use 1/4” masking tape, placed under the outer edge of the track (flex track).  Build up layers — start the first at the beginning of your easement (ending at the other end of your easement) then start each successive layer about 2” later into the curve.  As I recall I used 10 layers or so.  That provides a gradual ramp into the superelevation.  I run 89’ autoracks, pig flats, and hi-cubes with no problems.

As usual, it depends

If you've got locations on your layout where passenger trains are "at speed" (not approaching stations or sidings) on 40" curves in HO, they will look marvelous with superelevation, no doubt about it. Totally worthwhile. Not many home layouts have such appropriate locations, but if you do there's nothing intrinsically unreliable about superelevation. 

Jeff Allen

It's A Visual Thing Only

On my previous HO layout to this one, I went to a LOT of trouble to super-elevate all the mainline curves. It was a royal PITA to do so. However, on some of the curves (curves viewed from the outside of the curve) where it could be seen, it was worth it. The others (viewed from the inside of the curve)... a waste.

On my current layout, there's only one curve on my layout that would readily show super-elevation: The upper level turn back curve (viewed from the outside of the curve) on the end of the peninsula that slaps you in the face near eye level upon entering the room, or when walking around the end of the dual level peninsula blob.

That so, by virtue of the L-bracket mounts used, I ended up with a slight amount of super-elevation in the curve that looks great when the train is coming at you at the near-eye level viewing perspective.

Definitely worth it where it can be appreciated visually, not worth it on any curve where it can't readily be discerned visually.

The above FWIW.

Andre

Andre

Visual

Hi Andre,

I also only have one curve viewable from the outside on a central peninsula.  All the other curves are around the walls so basically you are inside the curves.  I also have most of my curves within a city and industrial/harbour areas and one curve goes into a tunnel and over a bridge so a large part is hidden no point doing superelevation there.

i like the thought that it’s worthwhile only if you see it.  

Thanks everyone for your input I will stew on this a bit.  I’m planning to use styrene shims so I can change it if I don’t like it.

Mike

The loco is already coming

The loco is already coming off the super elevation, but you can see the cars near and far leaning into their respective curves.  Worth it where it can be seen, even on a slow ore hauler!

I consider superelevation to

I consider superelevation to be another scenery item, just like trees and structures and a hundred other things. While it does take a bit of extra time to do, it's not annoyingly long or complex. It's easy to add while laying track. I use exactly the same process as Jeff Mutter, though I only go 5-6 layers deep. I got the masking tape approach from an article by Paul Dolkos many years ago. 

1/4" tape averages about .02 inches thick (depending on the brand). Five layers under the outer rail equates to about 8 1/2 inches in HO, which looks very good. Even my Challenger and other large articulated steamers have no problem negotiating the ramps into and out of the curves.

Here's a shot of one of my locos on a superelevated curve:

Super elevation

I use exactly the same method as Jeff and Mark, and like Mark got it off an article years ago. I model N scale and use 8 layers of masking tape, with staggered starts about 1 inch apart. Never had any problems with any rolling stock or locos. It looks fabulous and I would never not do it. But as already mentioned, it's really only obvious on outside curves which aren't so common on most layouts.

Tony in Gisborne, Australia

side by side comparison 

 side by side comparison 

@ Mike....

Mike, how much are you into realistic looking operations? How much are you into detail? Is doing super el. worth it to you? I like both so I did super el. I do HO freight operations, I like the look of  super el on trains, although I didn't do the masking tape procedure, that certainly seems simple, I opted for the styrene method so I had more modeling material when I was done doing the super el.  I used styrene strip material,  .010"--.020"--.030" X .100" wide. I cut the strips into lengths to span 3 or 4 ties. Starting at the center of the curve with the thickest strip, I then filled in each side of the gap with the other strips to fit. Don't need to put strips end to end, I spaced the strips 2-3 ties apart. Figured ballast would fill the gaps. You did spiral easments, hardly anymore trouble to do super el.  Tony's pic above says it all.....nice!

Do it

If the type of railroad you are modeling has superelevated curves then do it. It is pretty easy to do and should not impact operations at all. 

I just glue down strips of low profile ties on one side of the track location and then why dry sand down the ties leading into and out of the curve to make a smooth transition. I then glue down the track on the curves the same as any other section using DAP silicone.  Track has been in place for at least ten years without any problems and my long trains have no problem going around the 30" minimum radius curves. It is somewhat subtle but the combination of easements and super elevation really makes everything look right.

Mark P

Thank you — I had forgotten where I heard about using masking tape, but it was, indeed from Paul Dolkos.  Before that I tried both the styrene shims and stripwood methods; both had their issues.  Stripwood needed to dry before it could be sanded, and you only got one chance to get the sanding right, and styrene either was loose and got dislodged, or you again had the issue of drying time.  Masking tape is quick, easy, and adjustable.

Looks Good

I would.  

My mainline curves, which are 32inch radius, are super elevated with the exception of one curve that is hidden.  I use plastic shims set under the ties starting with .010 and maxing at .030 . 

Remember “a little goes along way”.  So, your elevation does not have to be much to get a great visual affect.  

Joe
 

1/4" tape averages about .02

OUCH! I really messed that up, by an order of magnitude!

Going back to my notes, the tape thickness is around .003 inches, not .02 as I said earlier. I use 6 layers, giving me about 1.57 scale inches of rise on the outside rail (what I wrote earlier would have equated to a 15% angle across the rails!). 

I must be getting really old. 

Super Elevation on a 1.4% gradient in a transitional curve on

Super Elevation on a 1.4% gradient in a transitional curve on the motorised liftup bridge. 

Leading up to the corner I found I had to be very gradual. And on some other corners I have the where  I have the SE it is sometimes naturally curve if using the cookie cutter system. 

Worth the Visual Alone

One large layout I regularly operate on has a section that is a 25' run that is nothing more than a scenic element, but it looks fantastic.  It's a long, snaking "S" that, to hazard a guess I would say has triple digit radii that are super-elevated.  When a 40 car freight is traversing thru the rolling hills on either side of the "S", It most certainly grabs your attention to see the head end lean into the first curve, then transition and lean into the second all the while the consist is snaking along behind.  This would have no where near the visual impact if it was just flat.  It's worth the effort depending on what your striving for.    

Well...

After following along on this thread and seeing the pics... I decided to go back and increase the super elevation a tad on the "in your face" curve I mentioned. I figured IF I'm going to go to the trouble, then I want enough elevation so as to be seen!

I like it better now, then before.

Andre

Superelevation heights

Just some numbers I came up with years ago. Measures the height of the outer rail vs. the height of the inner one. Most North American lines won't go above 6". Many of the slower-speed curves were around 3" or less.

Helix?

Do you have  a helix? One person, at least, I think it was Paul, uses super-elevation on the inside track of a helix (what do you call that, sub-elevation? Negative superelevation? Reverse superelevation?) to reduce string lining tendencies and perhaps reduce resistance due to curvature on a grade. 

Hi Jeff

Question for you Jeff,

where do you place the 1/4” tape do you put it along rhe outer edge of the roadbed?  I’m assuming you place the tape before the track is down so im trying to determine where to place it so it won’t miss the track sleepers.

I decided I’m going with tape my shims keep blowing away if I so much as sneeze.

Mike