DO. NOT.

I have tried this and, yes, the lead often reacts with white glue to form a lead acetate which expands beyond the volume of the space it's supposed to fill. I've had broken van bodies, gaming figures that won't stand up straight and open wagons full of horrific stuff I don't want to try to describe doing this. It can take years to manifest, though.

If this doesn't happen, the space obviously isn't filled more than half.

"If this doesn't happen, the

"If this doesn't happen, the space obviously isn't filled more than half."

Actually, if it's not filled more than 1/9th.  Lead acetate is 1/3 the density of lead so will take 9x the volume for a given weight.

Paul

Glue for lead

What would be a recommended glue for lead? I just ordered a couple of bags of lead shot for adding weight to freight cars that cannot be weighted easily (tank cars, covered hopper cars with hard/impossible to remove roofs, etc.

Thanks.

A couple of thoughts Steven....

For those trouble cars you described you could drill a small hole on the bottom and fill the cars that way.  No need to glue the lead just plug the hole and paint over it.  For those areas where you have to secure it in place I have been using clear silicone

Steve

  "What would be a

I've glued lead shot weight into cars using caulking or liquid nails cartridges. I've never dis assembled one to see how the lead is doing but I see no outside signs of a problem. The only time I recall an adhesive damaging a  car was when I used Goo to attach plastic scribed siding to a wooden car body, after a few years the plastic distorted ......DaveB

Steve & Dave B

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. With the tank cars I figured on drilling a hole in the bottom and after the plug dries just letting the car self level. Maybe the hoppers too, could just shake the car a bit to try and ensure the lead shot is mostly distributed evenly.

This is a timely topic for me, I am about to embark on an experiment with car weighing, in particular weighting to more than NMRA standards to make operation on my small shelf layout more enjoyable.

CA

I use thick CA to secure lead shot in cavities on the underside of cars where it can’t be put inside.  Inside cars I use sheet lead, attached with double-sided foam tape.

glueing

I had heard of this lead and white glue problem so I have been trying a couple of other ways of fixing the lead shot. First up, using acrylic paint, namely Vallejo model colour, sometimes with a little added water but other times straight. The other is a craft glue that is clear that I picked up; its ingredients are listed as acetone  and hydrocarbon solvents.

Michael Walsh

Carpenters glue and lead

I have been using carpenters glue and lead weights for a couple of decades. I have no idea how different the two glues are, but I have never experienced any problems, as described earlier. Granted, I am never totally filling spaces but the glue does not change its appearance, other than to dry. I have placed lead in steam engines, to add weight, but don't add glue, for obvious reasons. You have to be creative to keep them in place, but it works. Glenn

Research findings

I sure hope there's not much

I sure hope there's not much risk of securing lead shot with CA. I just filled the inside of a shell with shot and flowed CA over it to hold it in place a few weeks ago. That shell was quite the kitbashing project!

lead rot

Here's a link, probably the same one Joe found:  http://realm-of-lead-addiction.blogspot.com/2008/08/lead-rot-101.html 

Note that contaminated lead is mentioned, but as making the problem worse, not the primary cause.

Another cause given is acetic acid from exposed hardwoods placed with lead in a stagnant air situation. But if the contaminants include something that would initiate the rot cycle, then contaminated lead is all you'd need to have the problem - no glue at all!

The suggested solution is to seal the lead (miniature) with true shellac to prevent air laden with acetic acid from getting to it. I'm not sure how one would go about completely coating all surfaces of a bunch of lead shot with shellac!

Nickel Plated shot

The shot that I have been using from MidwestUSA is Nickel plated.  

I have been using this for about three or four years, with no issues.  All of the models that I have used this in are Athearn or Roundhouse. I first showed this with the post Yesterday it was an Athearn Heavy Duty flat car.  This flat is done using CA.

The one below was done last week, and has the bottom primed.  It is a 3d printed flat car, from shapeways, and the ribs were fragile.

Tom

I've always used 5 minute epoxy.

I put epoxy on the "floor" area where I'm going to put the lead shot, then pour epoxy over the shot after it is in place.  The result is that the lead shot is incased & sealed in epoxy.

pending app, time, etc. i

pending app, time, etc. i have used shoe gue. rubber cement, or ca.

never tried white glue. i try to add in the weight while the car is apart. so weight is glued inside, over the trucks. but on mpty flat cars it is glued under and if possible inside any frame.

i have used a mix of low temp melt lead, wheel weights ( old lead style). tin type. varied size lead shot. bulk lead varied quality. ( varied mixes, scrap to new).