The background...

Around 2008 the C&EI Historical Society had Wright Trak Railroad Models produce a HO scale kit of a C&EI Streamline cupola caboose.  There were 60 kits that were produced and I have been lucky enough to procure three. Due the crono-virus and having a little extra time on hand I will document building one of these models.  

The prototype cabooses were built in 1950 at C&EI's Oaklawn Shops in Danville, IL.  Numbered 7-21, these cabooses were built from plans obtained from the Wabash Railroad.  These sloped cupola cabooses are similar to the Wabash sloped cupola caboose but are in a different location.  The cabooses would go on to serve the MoPac and would be shopped to receive a rectangular cupola.  

A great source for more information is C&EI Flyer issue 26:1&2.  That issue covers the majority of C&EI steel cabooses and briefly describes how they can be modeled in HO scale.  

This caboose was the second largest group, after the war emergence caboose, and a great model to represent the C&EI.  

Here is a picture of previously completed model. 

Dave 

The parts...

Here is a photo of the components of the kit.  The resin parts include a one piece body, roof, copula, under frame, step frames, bolster end beams, and smoke jack.  A Tichy Train Group AB brake set is included for the break components.  Curved grabs are included in addition to laser cut clear plastic for the windows.  A neat feature of the kit is an etched metal fret that supplies a majority of the detail parts.  

Dave

Cleaning the resin parts...

The first task is to tackle cleaning up the resin castings.  

As I understand it, the resin casting process results in some flash that has to be removed.  

With the 3D casting I began by using a nail file to remove material from the inside face of the casting.  I did this for the cupola roof and body.  By removing material from the inside face, the edges become more clearly visible and easier to clean out the material.  The windows have slight ridges that will hold the window frames in place and provide a gluing surface.  I had to be careful not to trim those parts from the casting.  

The roof was cast pretty well. There are several pin marks that need to be removed.  I did this with a hobby knife and cleaned it up with a nail file. 

The end bolster castings and the smoke jack were cleaned up with a hobby knife.  I trimmed away most of the flash and then used the blade to scrape the parts to remove any mold lines.  

For the flat castings I used a different approach.  I once read that the flash is a result of the resin overflowing the top of the mold.  Therefore, use sand paper to reduce the flat surface and remove the flash.  I did this with these parts and it seemed to work pretty well.  I sanded the flat surfaces until the flash started to trim away and then used a hobby knife to trim away any excess. 

Do be careful with the steps, as they are delicate.  In fact, I would suggest not sanding their backs as you run the risk of breaking a side step.  Ask me know I know. 

Here are the completed cleaned up pieces.  

I did go ahead and trim the underside floor to fit in the body.  I also made sure the cupola fit nicely on the roof.  

The next task is to fix the warping of the floor.  There is also a slight bow to the body that I will try to narrow as well.  Think I will try the hot water soak for this one. 

Also, the nice thing about this kit is that there are so many different subassemblies that can be worked on while other parts are being modified.  

Dave

Straightening Resin Parts...

As I had previously mentioned, the under floor section and the body had a slight warp.

To remove the warp from the castings I heated water in the microwave to 160 degrees in a microwave safe container.  I used my instant grill thermometer to check the temp of the water.  

I placed the parts in the water and let set for 15-20 seconds, checking to make sure the parts didn't get too warm.  

I removed the parts from the water to see they that they were pliable.  I used a clamp to take out the bow in the body casting.  I used some 1-2-3 blocks to weight down the floor.  When the parts cool they will solidify into the correct shape.  Here is a picture of my set up.

After the parts had dried I checked their fit and everything looks good.  Tomorrow I will start assembly.  

Dave

Beginning assembly...

Continued the build today by gluing the underfloor to the model.  I used AC glue for this. 

When it dries the next step will be to install the train line.  The kit includes a nifty etched metal train line with brake levers.  Makes for an easy instillation.  There are tabs that I bent with a pair of tweezers that will go into #78 holes, drilled with a bit in a pin vice.  

Also, the roof casting has a dimple for the smoke jack that is the wrong location.  I filled this with modeling putty.  I squeezed out a small dab on a Post-It and used a toothpick to place a small amount in the dimple.  I learned a long time ago that the less you place, the less you have to sand later.  Ask me how I know.  

 Dave

Resin parts

Thanks for a great article. I am working on several resin kits that have some storage warping and this is just what I needed to see. With flat sides not yet assembled, I assume I can weight the parts on a flat surface after heating. Good tip on using a nail file on flashing. Again, thanks.

Update

Here is the current state of my progress.  

I filled and sanded the smoke jack dimple and installed the break levers.  Next will be continuing to add detail parts.

Dave

Brake Rigging

I used components from the Tichy AB brake frame for the parts for the under frame.  There are various AB brake diagrams that can be found on the internet and this is what I used for my brakes.  I pre-drilled the parts for holes for the piping.  I used wire from my parts bin and bit and cut to shape for the brake lines.  

 Dave

Roof Details...

Today's task was adding roof details.

The cupola roof had grab irons along the top.  The etched metal fret includes angled eye bolts that are mounted in holes drilled in the roof.  To do the drilling I use a pin vice with a #78 drill bit.  I glued in the eye bolts in first.  I then inserted .0125 wire into the eye bolts and used a pair of tweezers to bend the railing to fit in the drilled holes.  I used AC to attach everything.  

My other task was to install the smoke jack.  I also used .0125 wire to form the wire bracing to hold the stack in place.  I also drilled out the hole in the top.  This adds a great affect of being see through that adds those extra little details.  

 Dave

Body Details...

Next up are the body details.  The widow frames need to be cut from the etched metal fret and filed with a small file.

Those are shown here.  

They are then glued in place in the body.

I then added the body grab irons.  The kit includes the four curved grabs.  The rest are bent from .0120 wire.  Holes are drilled with a pin vice and the grabs are glued in place with AC.  

Next up are the caboose steps. 

Dave

Building the steps...

The caboose steps for this kit make a great looking product, but are a little fussy to build.  The kit includes four resin frames for the steps.  The steps themselves are on the etched metal fret.  I used an older hobby knife blade and cut the parts from the metal fret.  I then filed the cut edges smooth.  The parts have bend lines to help form them into steps.  

Here are the parts.

I glued the parts in place by applying AC with a toothpick to the step frames.  It makes a cool see through effect on the step treads.  

Dave

RE: CEI resin caboose kits

From either the BBFCL or MFCL(Baby Boomer or Moder Freight Cars Lists on io.com), the entire Wright Trak resin line, plus decals have been picked up by a new company, Southbound Model Works and Decal Company ( https://www.sbmwdco.com/), which apparently still has this CEI resin caboose kit available.   Now you all need to petition them to reintroduce the IC(G) Centralia built extended porch/extended cupola kit so others can enjoy a unique, but relatively modern caboose.!!! 

They do have the rights and patterns for a variety of other Southern RR caboose kits/decals/details, etc...

Hope this helps

Southbound Modelworks and Decal Co.

Loren,

That is correct.  Greg at Southbound Modelworks and Decal Co has purchased the Wright Trak line and is slowing bringing out models.  Check out his website at  https://www.sbmwdco.com/.

Doing this blog is meant to help anyone who purchases the kit.  Thanks for posting!

Dave