sunacres

This is embarrassing, but having heard that confession is good for the soul I shall proceed. 

 

We’re making good progress on what I call the Day Branch Extension of the Park Day Railway, an HO around-the-walls layout that I’m building with my middle school math students in our classroom. As I’ve described in earlier posts over the last few years, I emphasize the value of experience with manual tools, a flexible attitude towards precision, and benchwork designs that allow me use very cheap (and shockingly poor quality) lumber. 

progress.jpg 

Our benchwork is basically small L-girders made from 1x2 pine supporting grid frames, again 1x2 pine, with risers supporting cookie cutter roadbed of ½” homosote laminated to ¼” plywood. In the yard areas sheets of the roadbed material are screwed directly to the frames. The use of risers means the frames don’t have to be perfectly level, I can adjust slopes and vertical curves of the roadbed independently by clamping risers until I’m happy, then screw the risers in. 

 

Over the six years the layout has been under construction I’ve always used the very crude spirit level I call Old Faithful that is typical of the many very cheap (and shockingly poor quality) tools that I’m just too lazy or sentimental or parsimonious to replace. 

%20level.jpg 

When using this level, I have frequently been perplexed by projects that end up slightly off kilter, and I think to myself that (despite the name) this level probably isn’t very reliable. A couple of years ago I even bought a wall-mounted laser level when we were working on a critical section that was part of a student lesson on the quadratics of parabolic vertical curves. But for many tasks it’s handier to lay a beam level on structural elements so I still used Old Faithful. 

 

But a couple of days ago we were trying to level L-girders so they could span a couple of window sills in the corner of the layout and it became obvious that something was ridiculously wrong. In assessing the situation I finally did the simple thing that for some reason I’d deliberately not done heretofore: read the level, then flip it around in the same spot and compare the indications. 

bubble1.jpg 

bubble2.jpg 

I finally broke down and bought a decent level, and the project is back to sanity.  

20levels.jpg 

Of course, if I were to start this (or any other) layout project again I would not think twice about renting a rotary laser level for a day to establish a level line everywhere in the room. And I will think long and hard about what kind of psychological state of denial kept me from replacing Old Faithful long ago, and what other obstacles I’m ignoring.

Jeff Allen

Jeff Allen

My MRH Blog Index

Reply 0
Photo Bud

I Hear Ya'

I've put my Craftsman level into second place for construction and use a phone level app that is easy to use and simultaneously shows angle in two directions on almost flat surfaces. It's pretty slick and shows angles in tenths of  degree.

Edit: Oh, and glad to see an update on this project.

Bud (aka John), The Old Curmudgeon

Fan of Northern Pacific and the Rock Island

Reply 0
Don Mitchell donm

Re: Home / Blogs / sunacres's blog / Middle School Model Railro

So which app do you use?   If it's for Apple, it would be interesting to compare it with the Spirit Level 3 app on my IPhone.

Don Mitchell

R%20logo.jpg
Read my blog

Reply 0
billgill4

Glad to see this project contiuing

Really pleased that your middle school layout progresses.This is a TERRIFIC project!

Reply 0
Photo Bud

App for Level

I use the Clinometer from plaincode. It is available on Apple App Store, android's Google Play, and Windows Phone. Mine is Version 2.4.

Bud (aka John), The Old Curmudgeon

Fan of Northern Pacific and the Rock Island

Reply 0
gmburzynski

Levels are great tools. I

Levels are great tools. I personally have invested in levels that cost in the hundreds.  But my profession in residential and light and heavy commercial construction requires the utmost accuracy. Lasers are great tools also. Line laser, rotary sensor, rotary line. They all have umpteen uses. 

The moral, never buy cheap tools, always buy the best you can. 
 

GB
 

 

Reply 0
dennis461

bearer of bad news

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but why are you using bare lumber? You've got to seal it with paint or something to prevent it from shrinking or swelling with temperature and humidity changes.  

Reply 0
Benny

...

Quote:

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but why are you using bare lumber? You've got to seal it with paint or something to prevent it from shrinking or swelling with temperature and humidity changes. 

NO, you don't. You absolutley DO NOT have to seal the wood.  It will be fine like this for the next hunderd years.  It certainly will be fine for the lifetime of the project.  I have sections in my storage that are sealed and sections that are unsealed, both over 40 years old.  No difference, no problems.  The only reason to seal wood is to protect it from the elements, you're in doors, it's really not that necessary.
 

--------------------------------------------------------

Benny's Index or Somewhere Chasing Rabbits

Reply 0
Ken Rice

Lasers, water, etc

I can see where that old level would be a bit of a problem!

I put a level line around my old basement with a water level.  The water level works, but it requires two people with good judgement and patience, or one person with monumental patience.  I got one that had an electronic gizmo you put on the tube at one end that beeped when the water reached the reference line, so you could do it faster by yourself.  But that gizmo turned out to be kind of inaccurate, so I chucked it and used the old mark I eyeball at both ends.  It takes a little time for the water to stop moving in the tube after you adjust the tube, and then you need to be very consistent about where in the curve of the water surface you use for your reference.

A decent laser level is now in the price range were you could consider it for hobby use, and they sure do make it faster and easier to get a nice accurate level line around a room.

But a good spirit level does the job nicely too, and is also useful in places a laser level isn’t.

Reply 0
JeffRA

That old inaccurate spirit level

Perhaps you should mark that old spirit level to the effect that it is inaccurate. That will stop anyone else from using it. Alternatively you could fix it so that it reads level. A neat project for some spare evening.

....Jeff (N scale, DCC++)

Nova Scotia, Canada.

Reply 0
sunacres

brain fodder

Great feedback. One of the gratifying aspects of teaching middle school is that virtually everything - victories and failures alike - provide valuable learning opportunities. 

I also sometimes use an Android app (called Bubble Level) that reads to the tenth of a degree on x and y axes, but rounds to the nearest two tenths. I use long vertical curves between grades and it's particularly handy for identifying the "instantaneous" track grade at specific locations along the transition. Translating decimal degrees from the Bubble Level app into the percent values that we're accustomed to in railroad land is a good exercise for students. 

The operative terms in Ken's reminder of the use of a water level are "good judgement." Although essential for theoretical understanding, I've found that middle school students aren't ideally equipped for managing the practical constraints of water and flexible tubing. But they do learn a lot! In a related exercise I have them use the surface of water in a plastic cup for projecting level lines over long distances. 

I'm inclined to agree with Benny about not sealing the lumber - in my California location the environmental effects don't seem to cause a problem - at least within the tolerances that my old spirit level was allowing!

Jeff (N scale) brings up a great point that probably accounts for why I kept Old Faithful around for so long - I don't have a reflexive routine for disposing of useless junk! I especially appreciate that he includes a suggestion (fix the dang thing) that allows me to hang onto it for another few decades. Labeling it with its current status seems like a pretty reasonable compromise, thanks!

Jeff Allen

Jeff Allen

My MRH Blog Index

Reply 0
MtRR75

Testing Levels

Every time I buy a new level, I test it in the store before I buy.  I use the level on the store floor or on a shelf -- measuring in both directions.  If I get different readings, I don't buy it.

I live in an old house, where no walls or floors are ever level.  I inherited a level from my father that failed the level test.  I Labeled it "Old House Level" and gave it to my contractor.  He got joke.

Reply 0
dark2star

Disposing junk tools

Hi,

with some tools it is a good idea to make them unusable if you notice they're broken and then get rid of them. I had a test tool for live voltage - I always test the tool before using it. When it failed I actually destroyed the plastic handle before I threw it away. This might result in injury if it is broken and used.

Similar thing with that axe that had the handle fail - make sure it is unusable and then get rid of it. Just imagine picking it up out of custom and then trying to split a log. You'll be happy if it only hits you in the foot...

In most other cases it is sufficient to just get rid of the tool, in my case it is a pair of screw clamps that don't align well. You usually notice they don't work before they fail. I got some even cheaper quick clamps which are actually more accurate...

With an old level - just use some permanent marker to paint over the bubble and use it as a straight edge Or use it as a teaching tool. Send someone to get a replacement bubble at the tool shop.

Be safe!

Reply 0
twforeman

Square wasn't square

I learned this lesson a while ago with an old framing square I was using. Could not figure out why the box I was building wouldn't fit together properly.

Finally I checked my framing square - it was off by 1/8" on the short leg! No wonder my corners weren't working out.

I ran out and bought a new square.

Reply 0
Reply