Bowser Directions

I thought the kits used the cylinders and valve gear from the Bachmann locos?  Those look too small. Instructions on Bowser site: https://www.bowser-trains.com/discontinued/hodiscontinuedlocomechanism.html

Replace the brass brush plate with a Bowser Fiber Brush Plate for DCC 1-22193: http://www.bowserorders.com/.sc/ms/dd/ee/14484022/Bowser%20FIBER%20BRUSH%20PLATE%20W^2FBEND%20for%20DCC

Well shoot !!!

Gary, 

I think you're right. I thought about cutting the steam chest in two pieces and remounting it because that was my general thought as well. 

What is really weird is that this frame is apparently an older version. On mine, the zinc frame stops on either side of the drive wheels and the original plastic Bachmann "frame" holds the steam chest, the lead truck and the trailing truck. It doesn't seem like the best version at all. In fact, if you look at the Bowser picture, this newer version has the zinc frame that runs the entire length of the locomotive. It definitely uses the Complete Bachmann cylinder and valve gear, not the zinc cast one by Bowser. The newer version (discontinued in 2009) looks like a much sturdier frame. 

Well, shoot. I can still make it run and likely quite well, but I was wondering why Bowser had not made the frame run the entire length of the locomotive? It looks like they wondered the same thing and redesigned it. 

These are kinda hard to find. Does anyone know why? In other words, were they really not that popular? Why did Bowser discontinue them? It seems to me that a good looking, good running steamer that is easy to repair (stock Bachmann is a throw away and I have heard mixed reviews about longevity of BLI) is desirable. Hmmm, maybe people are hanging onto old Bowsers because they are nice and do run well?

Bowser discontinued steam in 2008

I believe Bowser discontinued all of their steam kits in 2008.  That includes the Bachmann mechanism kits.  I have no idea how popular they were, but I have been looking for one for a while.  I haven't had much luck, but I look for Bowser kits of all types at shows and on eBay.  It seems many were bought and never built, so often seem to come from estates.  They are getting harder to find, though, and parts are drying up from Bowser.

Why Bowser discontinued steam kits has been rehashed on forums, but they weren't selling enough and they weren't cost effective any more anyway.  You'll get lots of opinions about how hard the kits are, how inaccurate they are, how badly they run, but I enjoy tinkering with them.  

There is a Facebook group, Bowser/Penn Line Collectors Group, that is fairly active.

As far as your kit, you may need to use some judicious bending of valve gear so nothing rubs or bumps.  I had a K11 that had trouble until I bent the valve gear in to avoid the steam chest.

Bowser seems like a GREAT company !

Bowser has actually responded to my e-mail which is HUGE in today's world. 

Imagine this. This kit actually does not belong to a 4-8-4. Bowser believes it is for a Consolidation. It has what I believe to be the correct Boxpok drivers but neither the old version or the new version have a zinc steam chest. Nope, not for this engine at all. So, this is something that a previous owner kitbashed by bending siderods, etc. to make things work. When I straightened things out, I got all of the problems, because I did not realize I had the wrong parts ! 

So, yet another project in the works. I am not sure if I can extend the frame with brass or not, but I am going to give it a shot.  I will try to post pics if I can make this work 

You're correct that many kits are still in their original form. I have found lots of stuff like that at train shows, so I will continue to look. I don't see them very often, so they must not have been too popular? That is too bad because I really like them, oh well...

Nice folks!

Had a chat with the Bowser reps at the Timonium show back in October 2018, and asked them why the steam line had been cut.  The answer was, the current crop of modelers found the steamer kits too difficult to deal with. Specifically, they hated assembly of the running gear.  Having built three, I know how fiddly riveting the valve gear can be, but hate it?  That's actually kind of sad.

Tim Bowser

(Yeah, same name.  Nope, no automatic discount.  )

Older model 4-8-4

I assume you are having these problems with the older models (open frame motors) of these locos?

I have 3 of the newer Bachmann versions that run very smoothly. I spoke of them here,..

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/bachmann-484-wheelslip-12208640

Family discount !!!

I don't think they should use your name, Tim !  Actually, it's kinda weird because they don't really say how Bowser got it's original name. 

Yes, that is a real shame, because being able to service the rods and valve gear is what I really appreciate about the Bowsers. I suspect they are correct. It is a little tedious and if you decide to pull an axle, you have to know how to use a quartering tool. 

Brian, I am sure the new Bachmann are much better but any of the old stuff was pretty much train set junk that ran fine and then broke. As soon as it broke, you might as well throw it away. 

Older Bachmann 4-8-4

The model I have was given to me because the drive gear and axles all split.

  The motor, a can motor, seems fine.  I was able to fix it by ordering repair parts off shapeways.  I have no idea how long it will last, but it was a cheap repair. 

I would prefer the Bowser mechanism, as it looks to add weight and has a stronger mechanism, but I haven't had any success locating one.

I've been advised to prowl eBay for Bachmann 4-8-4s that were converted and take the mechanism from a GS-4 Daylight, say.  Apparently people will end up with one and won't realize it's been converted and it will sell cheap [in other words, it actually has a Bowser mechanism under the boiler].

Bowser's name: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowser_Manufacturing

  https://www.bowser-trains.com/aboutus.html

I think I recall having one

I think I recall having one of those older locos early on, and I seem to remember gluing those split gears to together with a very special super glue I got from a boating guy that was selling it. It came from Austria if I recall properly. I'm not sure I was able to pull a heavy load with that repaired loco.  (I may have recorded that repair on an older forum that switched software, and posting was loss?)