Goose in The Caboose Productions

Here's the ultimate tool for layout joints, gaps, and just about anything else. Best thing I've ever bought for the layout. Period.

 

 

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Goose in The Caboose Productions  -  Railroad and Model train fanatic, superhero fan, and lover of historically accurate and well-executed sword fights.

Long live railroading and big steam!! And above all, stay train-crazy!!!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTkT-p0JdEuaMcMD10a72bg

 

Reply 1
DougL

PCB ties and grid - clever

I see how the printed circuit board can be used for bridging rail joints. 

Are the track gaps exaggerated to demonstrate the product?  Sometimes I have bad connections like that.  Then I cut out about 4 or 5 inches, and splice in a piece to fit better.

--  Doug -- Modeling the Norwottuck Railroad, returning trails to rails.

Reply 0
HVT Dave

Section Joints

I use Gapmasters where each track crosses a joint between two sections (modules).  I use 5-minute epoxy to affix the Gapmaster to the roadbed, remove 4 ties from the track, solder the rail to the Gapmaster, then use a thin disc in the Dremel to cut a gap down the center.l  Rails on each section (module) are physically separated. This also allows for a bit of expansion and contraction of the rails.

Dave

Member of the Four Amigos

 

Reply 0
Goose in The Caboose Productions

Exagerated track gaps

Hahaha!!! Not on purpose, that's just the way my track-laying came out. Actually, this is my first permanent layout and the first time I've messed with these. I'll probably do it better next time around, LOL. my trackwork still isn't as smooth as I'd like it to be, but I've learned a lot about it on this layout, so hopefully, I can take the GapMasters and what I've learned to the next layout. Or the next two decks of this one, whichever happens after the move. 

Thanks for watching and glad the video helped.

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Goose in The Caboose Productions  -  Railroad and Model train fanatic, superhero fan, and lover of historically accurate and well-executed sword fights.

Long live railroading and big steam!! And above all, stay train-crazy!!!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTkT-p0JdEuaMcMD10a72bg

 

Reply 0
Goose in The Caboose Productions

Section Joints

Yeah, I was standing there staring at everything after I finished installing them and then realized that's what I should have done. When we get moved and I can finally start either building a new layout or retrofitting the existing one, that's what I'm planning on doing. Ideally, I'd have 3/4 ply cut as profile boards for the end of each module so I have something to glue and spike the cork to before finishing it off as you depicted.

In any event, I'll probably end up with a new layout in one form or another and use these from the beginning instead of trying to retrofit them into an existing setup.

Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed the video!!

_garthft.jpg 

Goose in The Caboose Productions  -  Railroad and Model train fanatic, superhero fan, and lover of historically accurate and well-executed sword fights.

Long live railroading and big steam!! And above all, stay train-crazy!!!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTkT-p0JdEuaMcMD10a72bg

 

Reply 0
Nathan Rich

Consider homasote roadbed.

Consider homasote roadbed. Cascade Rail Supply can make you MDF roadbed sections for the ends of modules that won't crumble like cork. Also I find the regular roadbed to be very easy to use, and it comes out nicer in the end. Zero issues with your regular ballast either. The material is real homasote that comes from the east coast, not just Home Depot ceiling tiles that look like homasote but are not. Cascaderailsupply.com
Reply 0
railandsail

Track Gaps for my Entranceway Bridge

I'm getting ready to lay some of my staging area track down near my entrance way door swing bridge,...bridge described here... https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/layout-room-entrance-swingdown-bridges-3-of-them-in-combo-12210684

I'm taking a closer look at exactly what I might do for the most immediate gaps in the tracks. I've seen several new products introduced and I know at least one of those would not be applicable as they would not work with my 'sliding connection'.

A couple of days ago I considered placing 'rerailers' on either side of the track gaps.

This morning I thought how about placing the rerailer across the gap, then cut it in such a manner as to provide a stable gap??

Reply 0
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