frog wires

I have used the hole to fasten the Frog Juicer wires.  I don't know the true use of the holes but they work for my application.

Thank you

Thank you 

Could never get the holes to work

I could never get the holes to work on either code 100 or 83 turnouts, so I finally decided to solders them to the back of the frog where you don't have paint or any chemical blackening agent applied. That and it gives it gives you a nice long joint instead of a big bulge on top of the turnout.

Thank you

Thank you very much I'm going to check your old videos I've been sub to your YouTube channel for awhile  my channel is bald8bil 

Drill and Tap

Drill and tap the hole for a 2-56 and attach the wire that way.

Something else to do  for long term useage.

The flat connection between the out rail and the closure rails will be water/glue etc in ii and cause problems

Cut some plastic away and solder on a couple jumpers.

Additional jumpers from the closure rail to the points would no hurt

Howard Garner

Thank you Howard

Thank you very much Howard 

More on subject

The bright metal under the frog is a continuation of the rails and has nothing to do the the frog.

If you do solder to it, you may melt the plastic and cause a short of the two crossing rails.

I have used the Atlas code

I have used the Atlas code 100 #6 for years but when my freight cars run through them, they look like they are hitting a pot hole as the wheels drop into the gap where the frog is.  I've recently sold them all off.

I never did electrify the frog; if you run short wheel base engines, it may make a difference.  I didn't have any stalling issues with longer wheel base engines like GP40's and SD45's.

I have two in service right

I have two in service right now, I didn't add any extra wires and no electrical problems, although my shortest locomotive is a GP35.  I have noticed what Jim mentions with the wheels.

Mike.

Already subscribed

Thanks, man!! And I already know what your channel is on YouTube, you've been on my subscription list for a couple weeks now.

Thank you mike

Thank you for taking the time to read and comment  and I sub your YouTube channel 

Code 100 Frog Potholes

Jim earlier mentioned the wheels dropping in the frogs like a pot-hole.  Since these frogs were designed for all equipment (including the european pizza-cutter flanges) they are deeper than the flange on an NMRA wheelset.  I fixed it on my 11 Code 100 Atlas turnouts by cutting a small triangle wedge about 1/2 long that drops into the frog.  I used the lid from a sour cream container (0.020 thick, and free after the sour cream was gone).  I laid them in place to test - problem solved.  I then used a dab of gap-filling CA to hold them in place.  Since these are in staging they are left unpainted, but could be painted to make them disappear.

Phil Hartung

As Phil has commented, adding

As Phil has commented, adding shims to the Atlas code 100 turnouts is a way to improve or mitigate the Pot-hole effect.

I've had most of my Atlas code 100 turnouts from 20, even 25 years ago and for keeping costs down, or those on a budget, they can be made to work well enough.

Some of mine the points were also a bit loosy goosy such that they would sort or rock as well as pivot.  I'm at the point where I was ready to "upgrade" and move on from the old Atlas code 100 #6 and go with Peco.

Use pot metal soldering paste

If you want to solder wires to Atlas frogs, get some pot metal soldering paste. I've used that method and it works great.

https://amzn.com/B000BUUTPU

Solder-It Aluminum/Pot Metal Repair 0.25oz

Thank you joe

Thank you joe and that was going to be my next question is what type of soldering flux to use

One solution

Remove a small area of paint around the screw hole on the frog, place a screw (preferably stainless steel) through both the hole and the base board and fix in place with a nut,  then  wire from the base board side of the screw to your point motor.

Powering up an Atlas Frog (100 or 83)

The holes Is useful! You can't solder to these worth diddly, BUT, you can directly tap the hole as a 1-72, no drilling needed, and then use a 1-72 x 1/8" stainless screw to clamp down a wire.  Done it easily on at least 150 of these on 3 different layouts, in code 83.

Joe Berger

Great Northern Railway(HO)

Cascade Division

Atlas #6 Screw holes

   These holes on either side of the frog are part of the frog and used for connecting the buss bars that are made by Atlas. They also have the small, I believe smaller than the 2-56, screws that fit these. Both are made of brass.

   I have used hundreds of them on several layouts as I too have found that you cannot solder to the frog. They are packaged separately and each come in different quantity packages. Unless you order a quantity, shipping is more than the product.

   I drill a small hole through the layout, poke a 22ga green wire (frog) up through the buss bar, bend a 90, solder it, hit it with a black Sharpie, ballast over it. Invisible!! 

Atlas #6 Screw Holes

The easy way to use them to connect to a juicer or whatever is to take a brass #2 wood screw and just screw it into the hole.  I use a small mini battery screwdriver (Craftsman) and it is a piece of cake.  Then I solder the wire to the top of the screw.  Been doing this for 4 or 5 years now with no problems.  

Guy Everhart