Research and more research

One of the interesting parts of this yearly build log is that we get the 'idea' on January 1st, but we can't start building until the 12th, then the 30 day count down begins. With the deadline of the 12th in mind, I started doing some research on the NP boxcar series to find out two things; weathering patterns, and the accuracy of the model.

After finding pictures online I came up with a list of things that need to be changed on the large scale boxcar

1. Replace ends with correct ends

2. Replace roof with correct roof

3. Replace sidesill with correct sidesill

4. Remove roofwalk

5. Shorten "A" end ladders

6. Paint yellow strip to white

7. Begin weathering

After looking at this list, and seeing the scope of the project of only 30 days, I decided to skip steps 1-3 and proto-freelance the model. It's not an exact model, but it will do good as a stand in until I can build a proper model (can anyone say 10 years from now)

Since this was a 30 challenge, I also wanted to challenge myself with trying new techniques for weathering.

I wanted to try to learn how to use the oil dot filter method for fading a car. With that list in mind, I patiently waited for the challenge to begin and began to study the weathering patterns.

Here's the list of what I came up for weathering. As a reminder, here is the prototype photo that I'm using as an example.

Weathering Steps

1. Yellow stripe to white

2. Lots of grime, dirt, etc, oil fade might be a good technique here.

3. Rust scratches on door track

4. Build up of grime on door tracks

5. Area repainted possibly when ladders shortened. Looks cleaner, brighter then rest of car.

6. Possible rust around where the DF circle was on door. When did it fall off?

Details of weathering patterns

More studying of the photo showed the following details that needed to be attempted.

Repaint area on "A" end

Repaint area on "B" end 

Rust from door opening

Rust on NP logo

Practice of oil filter

Since I couldn't officially start until the 12th, I pulled out a old car I had previously weathered with what I call "spray and pray". Spray a dirt color on the model, and pray that it looks okay. Granted this was 10+ years ago when I did this, so it looks really rough now.

But I took the gon, and applied a oil dot filter wash. It's not very noticable when you see the whole car, but I left the last panel unwashed for contrast.

The build up of the grime on the lower row of rivets was looking good. The rust streaks not so much, but I had enough confidence to move forward.

End of day 1

It's not perfect, but it's a start... I think I can manage to recover.

Ended up sanding off the lettering with 220 grit (should have used 400 or something lighter), so there are some sanding marks above and below the lettering. Also somehow the masking on the white strip bled through. Need to fix that as well.

One layer of oil fade. Doesn't look too bad, but definitely needs more work.

Under the kitchen lighting

Under the workbench lighting

Went and bought my 1 bottle of paint on my way home from a teacher workshop. Big mistake, I should have known better than to buy paint at a LHS that only has a few bottles of paint.

I had previously bought paint from them with no problem. Trying to restore the paint with some of the MRH paint thinner, will give it 24-48 hours and see what happens.

I hope to have the model done by the 30 day deadline because the weekend of the deadline is the RPM down in Portland. I hope to bring this down along with some of my other projects.

  Trying to replicate the

Trying to replicate the roof on the far left with roofwalk removed. Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions?

The canvas

I’m an HO guy but working a canvas that size sounds really interesting!

roof looks like a nice start maybe some pan pastels and you’re in business  

jeff

Finished it tonight. A flat

Finished it tonight. A flat clear coat is required in this situation as I run trains in the rain. It would be a shame to see this weathering disappear in the rain. The look I was going for was a recently removed roofwalk (early 1970's). The roof had already started to rust around the roofwalk, and then once the roofwalk was removed that area slowly started rusting. 

I’m an HO guy but working a

I’m an HO guy but working a canvas that size sounds really interesting!

Jeff,

It took me a while to adjust to large scale, coming from a HO scale background. The funny thing is, now that I've been in large scale for so long HO scale looks like Z scale to me. The problem with this scale is that you can't get away with any mistakes. In HO scale, you can hide some of your weathering mistakes, but not in this scale. 

roof looks like a nice start maybe some pan pastels and you’re in business 

I ended up adding a few chalks/weathering powder I had on hand for the final photo I posted yesterday. After sitting on it overnight, I need to touch up a few areas still, but I think I will wait until the rest of the car is done. 

Real Rust

Craig,

A few years ago I gave a clinic on using "real rust" as a weathering medium.  Well, maybe more than a few years ago - it was at the 2004 NMRA National Convention in Seattle.

Anyway, Sophisticated Finishes makes a two-step process for aging metal.  There is a base coat, a gray acrylic type paint with minute iron filings in it.  You apply this (brush), then after dry, you apply your desired finish, in my case, I chose the "rust" finish (you can also buy a blackening finish, as well as a greenish (weathered copper) finish, plus some others, I think).

It really worked.  I used it on a variety of scale car bodies.  It looks best on larger scales.  I remember I used it on an old large scale tank car body.  It really did look, well, "rusty".  If I knew then what I know now about using Pan Pastels, and oil paints, I think the combination of those three mediums could produce super results.

Al Carter

Rust

Craig I can certainly understand how HO must look small now!

Al on real rust strangely enough I had been looking for that product recently and  found a similar one. “Modern Masters metal effects rust”  for $12 with hobby lobby coupon.  Seems like some added steps compared to the Sophisticated Finishes process   

Agreed It would be better for larger scales but I like it for HO gondola insides. Tried it on some roofs and a boxcar too, don’t have pics handy but here’s some open cars

jeff

@Jeff

Thanks for the tip on the MM product - I'll have to give that a try.  I liked the real rust effect of Sophisticated Finishes, but as I said I felt it might be a bit too "out of scale".  Although I never did try it in a gondola.  That sounds like a great opportunity to try the MM product.

Al Carter

Edit:  I just went back and looked at your photos, Jeff, and zoomed in, and I must say, your gondolas look really good.  I'm anxious to try that product.

Real Rust

Interesting idea.about the real rust. I've head of some guys making their own rust by soaking steel wool pads in vinegar for months at a time, and then using that solution to replicate rust. 

I wonder if the Metal Effects stuff is similar to the Rust & Dust that Mirco-Mark sells. I have some of that on hand, just never have had a reason to try using it.

https://www.micromark.com/Rust-n-Dust_2

Steel Wool and vinegar

I've tried the steel wool vinegar method. It works, it's a bit thinner and more "fresh rust" colored (orange) than the rust shown in those gondolas.  One thing worth mentioning is that there is some science going on, and one day I heard a muffled *Thunk* from the basement, went to investigate and discovered the metal lid of the glass applesauce jar I had been keeping it in had been blown off, and the resulting mess still stains my workshop cabinets to this day.

Nothing major other than that, and if you're on a budget it's the way to go!

Progress, but still more work to come

Outdoor test photo.

Some areas need reworking, but I'm about 90% happy. Not exactly 100% prototypical, but its not factory shiny either.

Good Job!

Nicely faded paint and rust scratch marks, Craig.  Well done!

Al Carter

Update 30+ days later

Still not 100% finished, but the contest ended on Sunday night. Total cost = $2. Okay, well I did buy some craft paint from Walmart for 50 cents a piece, but ended up not using it. Also bought a pack of Prisma Color pencils but only used 1, so maybe $2 for that one pencil.

Here's what it started like.

And here is what it ended up as.

Some detail photos

Full or mostly full build thread is located on largescalecentral. 

I enjoyed the weathering process, and now feel ready to tackle more of my rolling stock. Maybe I will shot for a realistic goal of 1 piece of rolling stock every couple of months. 30 days was a bit tight trying to find time to be a husband, Dad, and school teacher! Hopefully this summer will bring more opportunities for weathering. Overall I'm feeling pretty confident about this weathering process. I didn't quite follow the prototype photos, but I don't think it's that much of a 'rust bucket' to standout either.

Thoughts? Critical analysis? Things that pop out that need some tweaking? Open to feedback.

Craig 

Sweet!

Very nice!  Can we get a closeup interior shot?  Trucks and wheel spit on ends look real good. 

Jeff

Interior shot

Sure I will try and post a photo of the interior. I rattle can painted the interior walls with Camo Brown. The wood floor was a combination of a various different wood colors textured over each other. 

I need to pull the wheels back off and paint the axles something other then shiny metal. Camo Brown may come back.

For those that didn't follow the link, here is another upclose detail shot of some of the weathering.

@ Craig

NIce. You did a good job saving it Craig. 

More detail shots...

Not the interior detail shots as requested, but I did upload some more detail shots last night. I will try and shoot some photos tonight and upload.

If you notice, I have one door missing. I'm trying to replicate something similar to this look, but nothing seems to be working. I want to have a light rusting around where the DF loader patch fell off.

Interior shot

Here are some interior photos of the floor.

Boxcar removed.

Open doors