Al Carter tabooma county rwy

Not sure if I titled this right, but here goes....

Need some advice/help on how to keep a drill bit plumb (or vertical) when drilling through foam/benchwork.  

Here's the deal...  I have 2" of foam on top of a hardboard surface (supported by 1x3 gridwork).  My layout is entirely flat  urban/industrial, etc.  In a city portion, I want to install streetlights.  I have a devil of a time keeping the drill it plumb (perpendicular) to street/sidewalk surface.  

So I'm wondering if there is some sort of guide, similar to a power drill guide like the Stanley Port-A-Line, etc. that would have a narrow footprint?  The Stanley thing is way too wide.  I'm thinking of some sort of tube welded to a washer or something.  I have long enough drill bits (including a few at 12"), to allow for a tall enough guide.

Any suggestions?

Thanks, Al Carter

Reply 0
Ken Rice

Does your light design

Does your light design require perfectly vertical holes?  Can you remove that requirement by attaching a base to the lamp post that’s nice and square on the bench (where precision is easy), and then stick it over a hole that’s not necessarily perpendicular and maybe a bit larger?  That would let you be less precise where it’s awkward, and even angle holes to miss joists, etc.

Reply 0
rickwade

One thing that I've done is make a jig

I took a number of blocks of 2" x 2" lumber and cut them into 1" long blocks.  I then used my drill press to drill holes in the center of the blocks.  The drill press ensures that the holes are perfectly parallel to the blocks.  I drilled different size holes in the blocks so as to have an assortment of sizes.

To use I simply put the block with the correct size hole in the position where I want the hole and drill through it into the surface below.  It helps that I have some long small diameter bits.

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

Reply 0
greg ciurpita gregc

does streetlight need to go thru hardboard ...

or just wires? 

in which case, you could use something hot to make a vertical hole in the foam.

greg - LaVale, MD     --   MRH Blogs --  Rocky Hill Website  -- Google Site

Reply 0
Al Carter tabooma county rwy

Thanks For The Ideas

Greg,

Just the wires.  What I do is drill my hole, then use a coffee stirrer straw as a conduit, insert it through the foam and hardboard, then feed the wires down, and then pull the straw from below.  It's keeping it vertical that is the challenge.

Rick,

Thanks for the suggestion about the blocks.  Now that I think of it, I've seen that suggestion on a woodworking forum.

Ken,

The streetlights for the city/town portion will go through sidewalks (in most cases), so they can be affixed fairly straight.  However, in some places, I will have streetlights that just go into the terrain, like power poles, so there really isn't a stable base to glue them to.

Al Carter

Reply 0
rickwade

Al - you are very welcome.

Al - you are very welcome.  I’m glad that you found the tip helpful.

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

Reply 0
ctxmf74

I've seen drills with level bubbles

built in to the drill body. I just eyeball the bit from two directions then try to hold it straight. Foam is so soft that I think you could just drill the best hole you can then spring the light post vertical and hold it in place till the glue sets.....DaveB

Reply 0
joef

Drill guide

If you want to keep the drill vertical, then get yourself a drill guide. They come in various flavors ...

   1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and 1/2" 

Milescraft Handheld Drill Guide - $6.83 (Prime)
Amazon link:  http://a.co/d/6nhWTEL
http://a.co/d/6nhWTEL">http://a.co/d/6nhWTEL
/>  

Or if you want something more universal, then there is this ...


Milescraft Drill Guide with Chuck - $30.48 (Prime)
Amazon Link:  http://a.co/d/8ADopa0

You'll never have to worry about drilling a not-plumb hole again.

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

[siskiyouBtn]

Read my blog

Reply 0
smadanek

Drill guide for micro twist drills

Does anyone know of a drill guide for twist drill bit sizes 61-80. I was drilling holes yesterday to mount A-Line stirrup steps yesterday and could have used one. My old hands are somewhat getting wobbly. 

Ken Adams
Walnut Creek, California
Getting too old to  remember all this stuff.... Now Officially a COG (and I've forgotten what that means too...)
Reply 0
ctxmf74

Drill guides

  Are not as useful as the ads might claim for layout construction . They are designed for a flat level area to index the base so on the typical layout with slopes, curbs, structures, etc. it's hard to find the level expanse a drill guide needs. I'd recommend saving the money and investing some time in practicing one's drilling skills. Like any other task drilling a vertical hole gets easier with practice.....DaveB

Reply 0
pipopak

About Rick's jigs...

... they work great, but you better use either slightly larger holes or slow speeds, otherwise you might overheat and burn the drills.

Jose.

_______________________

Long life to Linux The Great!

Reply 0
Virginian and Lake Erie

Put the flat side of your

Put the flat side of your drill against a Swanson speed square and that should help.

Reply 0
ianm42

Use an old CD or DVD

Use an old CD or DVD. Place it centred over where you want the hole, mirror side up. Hold the drill and check the drill, and its reflection, form a straight line when looked at from all angles.

Ian Morgan

Hampshire

UK

Reply 1
Ken Rice

Clever!

I like that CD/mirror idea - simple and I suspect highly effective!

Reply 0
Nick Santo amsnick

One has to be very careful...

if holding the drill too long the plumb May dry out and turn into a prune....

5A6F5548.png 

at which point there might not be a “no s***”.

Nick

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.

Reply 0
UPWilly

St. Nick, you're funny

img.jpeg 

Bill D.

egendpic.jpg 

N Scale (1:160), not N Gauge. DC (analog), Stapleton PWM Throttle.

Proto-freelance Southwest U.S. 2nd half 20th Century.

Keep on trackin'

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