Pros and Cons

First though, not to insult anyone, is an example of the cookie cutter approach.  Then we have how John Allen built his Gorre & Daphetid.

WC takes all the guesswork out of calculating track elevation with incline/declines of 2%, 3% and 4%.  Plus it can be curved and you can be guaranteed a consistent and gradual elevation.  One concern I had was on the right side of the layout where the track to Daphetid rises and crosses over the lower track.  I thought I could place the higher track on the foam all the way to the trestle, then cut a hole through it for the two lower tracks.  That would still give me a stable base for the higher track.  The problem I have with the foam is how to secure the track. 

Stepping back a bit, I noticed that in all the pictures of John’s layout, he didn’t seem to use a roadbed under his track.  The area around Gorre appeared as if it was laid right on the plywood with no drainage or culverts between the tracks.  That is fine with me, but I was going to put a 1/8 or 1/4 inch layer of cork all over that area and probably into the industrial area on the right.  If I glue down the WC, I would carry that layer of cork on top, to have a continuous transition, plus for sound and to cover the slots in the foam.  So the foam is glued to the plywood, cork glued to the foam, and then the track glued to cork.  On a straight piece, that may be okay.  But when I was tracing out the curves with Atlas flex track, even though the track was flexible, it still wanted to straighten out.  Especially on those tight curves John was so fond of.  So when I try to glue the track to the cork topped curves, how can I keep the curve curved while the glue is drying?  I know I could figure out something, but even afterwards, will the whole thing be secure enough to counter the track’s desire to straighten out over time?  I would feel more confident if I used the CC approach and nail the track to the plywood.

Getting back to the cork.  In a recent post, Joe mentioned that he really didn’t notice the difference between laying track on plywood or cork.  I’ve done that in the past and the sound never bothered me either.  It would eliminate a step if I just did that.  But then how will the track go from the plywood to the foam?  Joe answered that too, in a way.  He showed how he covers his mountains with masking tape to give it a smoother finish.  There is a YouTube video by Fifer Hobby Supply in which he tapes the top of the risers with masking tape.  But now I am more concerned over the durability of the tape over time to hold the curved track.

The CC cutter approach will also let me make the exact elevations I need.  Some places may take a WS 2%, but others may require a 2.5%, or start at 2% and gradually go to 2.3% to 2.6 %.  The CC way will let me do that, plus the transitions will probably be smoother.  

Is seems as if I’m talking myself into the CC approach.  Even though I have nailed the plywood top down, I hope it won’t be that hard to cut the track pieces out.  But I still don’t know which way to go.  That is why I went ahead and did the benchwork the way I did.  It was easy and it forced me to at least get started and DO SOMETHING.

The only problem will be the rise to Daphetid and then Daphetid itself.  The tracks cross and I cannot just cut the rise out, I will have to get some additional plywood.  I have a piece that is 80 x 5 inches and another that is 48 x 16 inches from the original piece that Lowes cut for me.  Interestingly, the 80 inch long and thin piece is perfectly straight, while the 48 x 16 inch piece has a severe 1/2 inch warp along the 48 inch length.  But I don’t really see that as a problem.

So there you have it – Woodland Scenics or Cookie Cutter?  Before I can even do either of those, I have to come to a conclusion about the actual elevations of the track, which will be my next blog.

I suggest you keep it

At the time, you have 264 reads and should have 264 different ideas. I only can suggest what I would do....

I suggest you keep it simple.

The WS risers will keep a constant grade on a flat surface. You can dry fit the WS risers to verify distance & height clearance needed on pass overs. Plan ahead for transition grades from flat to the desired grade. After you secure the WS risers to the plywood, drape the top of the WS with plaster cloth, smoothing the top to fill the gaps which allow the WS riser to bend. Flat level areas on an elevated section can be done with thinner plywood properly supported from underneath. Add roadbed and track.

One main problem you may encounter with the cookie cutter method is twisting / warping of the plywood as you add elevation on the curves. This can be corrected with fastening the sub-roadbed, risers & open grid using screws and glue. Also, as the section is elevated through a curved section, it will not line up with the original track center line after reaching the desired height. These problems can be corrected but will cause headaches if you are not ready for them.

I recommend using the WS risers for the simple technique to achieve your goals.

The flex track will hold its curve after it is secure to the roadbed. Allow plenty of time for the caulk (or whatever you will be using) to set up and hold before removing the weights. 

Spline

If you want ease of construction, leave the sheet of plywood intact and construct the elevated track sections with spline roadbed.  Attach the risers to the plywood and glue up the splines to the risers.   Taper the ends of the splines were they butt up with the plywood with a belt sander.