Step 1

I used 1x4 and 1x6 pieces of construction grade lumber.  I was going round and round over using strips of ½ or ¾ inch plywood or construction or select grade lumber.  Reading these boards gave me all the pros and cons.  I went with the construction grade just because I like screwing and gluing with solid wood.  The other options were all valid and if I could travel between alternate universes, I would have tried all four methods and probably been satisfied with all of them.  Plus I did it all with just a hand saw and miter box from Lowes.  And my 40 year old Craftsman variable drill from Sears.

First, I started with the framework.  Instead of using all 1x4s for the frame, I used 1x6s for the outside and 1x4x for the joists.  The reason is that I want to hang a skirt from the inside of the frame and the extra two inches allows that.  I used 1 5/8 inch exterior wood screws because they were the cheapest I could get for the quantity I needed.  One of the biggest helps was this dual purpose tool from DeWalt that allows you to drill and countersink a hole with one side of the bit and then turn the bit around use it to screw the #8 screw into the wood. 

Step 2

The joists are all 16 inches apart.  I checked with the plan and none of the joists interfere with putting a Tortoise machine under the switches if I go that way.  I left out the second from the left joist because I have to cut Taylor Lake clear through the plywood and then attach a ¼ piece of plywood underneath and then attach the joist. 

I also used 2x2s for supporting blocks on all the corners.  Probably overkill, but the video that showed how to make this plan showed the frame twisting all over the place while they were moving it.  I know that the addition of the plywood top would help stabilize it, but that’s just the way I am.  I used 1 ¼ inch drywall screws to fasten the plywood to the frame.

I screwed handles on both of the short sides because I was making the bench in the kitchen nook (thank you my dear wife!) and was going to move it into the spare room.  I will later need to move it again to cut the hole for Taylor Lake.  And even later I envision a time when it will need to be moved years from now and so I want to make it easy to manhandle it through a doorway.

Step 3

The legs were made using 2 ¼ inch hex bolts.  The left and right pair of legs are glued and bolted to make two solid pieces.  The cross braces are just bolted to the legs so the whole thing can be taken apart.  I used furniture levelers from Home Depot, but didn’t like the plastic parts so I replaced them with metal T-nuts.  I was thinking of rollers but thought that levelers would be more practical, since they do glide on carpet.  I was also thinking of using the carpet block that Rick Wade uses, but maybe later. The top plywood frame is bolted to each of the legs with four hex bolts so the top can be removed (and tilted to go through doorways).  I hope I use the proper and strongest glues on all the layout materials so the whole thing doesn’t fall to pieces whenever I move it in the future.

Step 4

And here is the final product:

Taylor Lake

Like almost everything I am doing, converting the plan to reality is not as easy as I thought.  Taylor Lake is a perfect example.  The plan shows a lake with a dam and a mill and a meandering stream.  Actual photos show the mill and pond and drainage pipe much closer to the road and bridge.  I am going to have to do some serious planning before I cut into the plywood to make all this a reality.  Plus I think I want the road to continue to the industrial area as a justification for people and vehicles to get to the area.  Which is where I am as of Wednesday, June 20.  Although there is a Part 3 blog coming next, I’m not doing anything until I cut out the lake.

Looking good!

I wouldn’t worry too much about roads as they often traversed over the tracks wherever needed. Looking at the photo above, you will see that John wasn’t worried about little stuff like that and access could have been on the far left of the bridge where the log cars are located in the photo. 

More challenging will be the stone arch bridge on an “s” curve and transition to a vertical curve. It adds a lot to the scene so take your time and it should look and operated well. 

 "The plan shows a lake with

I'd try to stick to the way John built it by looking at photos. There is a nice book about the G&D called "Model railroading with John Allen", in it I recall some photos of the original layout's benchwork.

Your benchwork looks very nice, BTW., 

Looking forward to more of your construction blog. ...DaveB

Book and video

Thanks Dave.  I have the book and the 30 minute video of his layout.  Both of them, and the web sites, have been very helpful.

Keeping history alive

I've always liked John Allen's quirky railroads. I'm glad that someone is able to keep that alive. I'll be following your work on this project. Good luck!

Foamcore?

It may be easier to add a 1" or 2" thick sheet of foamcore and cut through that for the lake rather than having to cut the plywood.  (You may have the same problem I do in getting a 4" x 8' sheet home from the home store.)

Nice work so far and you are proving that someone doesn't need a number of power tools for a small layout which thereby lowers the initial cost for someone just starting out.

Robert

Following Along

Gary,

What a nice tribute to John Allen’s orginal plan.  I’ll be following along with interest.

I used the same benchwork plan on my last layout. It is good, easy to build design and I really liked the long overhangs on each end that provided storage room under the layout.  My biggest mistake was using 1 x 1/2 lath for the leg braces which were too flimsy for the job. I see you used larger dimension boards so you souldn’t have an issue. I did add a second set of cross braces on each end to help the stability and would recommend them if you decide to add casters as some point.  The upper frame shouldn’t twist once you get the top on. I moved my layout from Sacramento to Phoenix, then four more times in Phoenix with no issues.

I’d also recommend marking each part by name (i.e. leg 1, left end brace, etc.) and numbering the locations on both pieces where each benchwork connection is bolted together. Despite the theory that the pieces are all interchangeable, unless you were extremely precise with your measurements and drilling, they probably won’t fit back correctly if you ever need to disassemble it. After moving my layout twice, I learned my lesson.

Keep up the good work.

Lou in Utah

Hauling 4 x 8

I was thinking of renting a truck from Home Depot to haul my plywood and lumber, but one of my friends stepped in with his Jeep.  After Lowes cut the piece for me, the width was 3 feet 7 inches, which stored flat in his Jeep.  He miscalculated the length of his interior, so we had to leave the back door open.  We padded the wood and drove slowly and had no mishaps.