Getting the shell ready for the cab.

In order to prevent damaging already completed work, I think it's best to work on the sturdier parts of the shell before turning my attention to the weaker areas like the pilots and steps. Try to shape the plastic as much as possible before adding and details, that way they are less likely to be damaged while performing more cutting or filing.  

The Cannon & Co cab will interfere with the low wall bordering the old cab so it will need to be cut back. The old tab hole will need to be filled in as well. 

I used a micrometer measured the cut and marked the plastic by scoring it with a knife. Using the deck as a guide, a razor saw cuts a clean horizontal edge.  

To prevent cutting into the deck of the shell, stop sawing a fraction of an inch before the deck and cut the hanging peice of scrap off with a knife.

 The saw leaves a rough edge but that is quickly cleaned up with a knife.

The tab holes need to be filled in so measure the gaps and cut 0.040" styrene to size. 

Solvent based glue  bonds the plug into the hole, putty and a file will make the plug perfectly flush with the desk. 

Switcher with MU?

I'd like to see a detailed switcher with MU capability and the walkover steps.  Is that in the plan?  There were lots of roads with MU-ed EMD switchers in PA.

Robert

Nice work so far. I need to

Nice work so far. I need to try a Cannon cab on one of my switchers.

MUed switchers

Yes, Robert, that's all in the plan. I plan on running it with an SW1500 that's partially competed. They're representing the switchers used in the Antracite fields. 

From what I understand, the high tractive effort to fuel consumption ratio made them efficient for the steep grades on mine runs and the switchers could better handle the tight and curves and clearances associated with breakers and track dating from as early as the 1840's. The Lehigh Valley had a number of SW8's for running between Allentown and Hazleton, some even had dynamic brakes to ease loaded hoppers out of the mountains.  Switcher lash ups appear to have remained the predominate power for locals in the Middle and Southern Anthracite Fields until the mid 90's. Conrail had a group of leased MP15DC's inherited from the Reading that stayed in Schuylkill Countiy until the lease ran out in the early 90's, at which point they were replaced by SW1500's and newly rebuilt GP8's and GP10's.  

This switcher started was bought with some details added but was then painted and decaled for Conrail but I screwed up the weathering and so it was put in a box for a few years before having the etched brass screen and tread added. It's mostly done and has a very nice dcc equiped chassis waiting but it still needs some more details and lighting. And it needs window glass, the Detail Associates kit for the SW1500 is actually for the SW7/9.

American Model Builders makes

American Model Builders makes glass for the SW1000 and SW1500. I used their windows on an SW7 and they look great. 

Kit No. 232 for Athearn SW1000 & SW1500

Continuing work on the shell.

Thank you mjwitcofsky! I ordered a set and now I'm waiting. 

The radiator was a pain to file off so I decided to try to cut it out with a coping saw. 

That didnt work well so I used my dremmel with a cut off wheel. 

I got a little sloppy but no worries, I can hide that.

The cleaned up hole needs more patching so I can add a see through grill that protudes a few scale inches out from the hood. 

Plastic sprues make great material for filling holes. The plastic can be heated with a lighter and streched to a tapper that fits. Solvent or cement will hold it place, then I cut it off with flush cutters and file the rest off. A little putty will hide the rest of the scar. 

My LHS doesn't seem to have Squadron putty anymore so I tried this Tamiya white putty. 

Between the viscosity, texture and color, it reminds me of white out. It shrinks much more than the Squadron White so a second or third coat is nessessary for anything deeper than a scratch. Once one layer has dried, sand or file the putty and fill in any unsanded low spots with more putty and repete.    

It sands very nicely leaving a nice smooth surface. 

The back walkway needed the patches smoothed out as well as some low spots form the mold filled in. 

Use progessively finer sand paper or film to get a nice flat surface that will take paint well. Good primer will hide the patches of putty. 

The molded on single beam headlight will need to be replaced as will the molded "details" around the handrail stantions.

In future posts, I'll make more cuts in the shell, build a Canon & Co EMD Switcher cab, and take a look at some KV Models etched details. I still have to figure out exactly what I'm going to do on the pilots. 

squadron putty -alternate?

I am loving the build, I have

correct width

Hood issues

I’m glad you like my blog motorailer! The Athearn hood certainly isn’t perfect, it’s a compromise between a few phases of early switchers. The SW9 has the recessed door latches that are found on most EMD hood doors where as the Athearn model has the handle style that was on early phase switchers. The top vent is a louvre style that was found on switchers before the more common wire grill was adopted. The grill dimensions and door locations don’t quite match the SW9 prototype but they are close enough for me. If it really mattered, I would have started with a P2K SW9 instead of the Athearn model. 

Thank you Scott, now I know why some of the detail parts I bought for my SW1500 were actually for the SW7 shell.  If you search for SW1500 window glass, the most commonly available glass is cut for the Athearn SW7 cab and not the Athearn SW1500

SW7 vs SW9 hoods