I Scratch Build track from the sub roadbed to the rail.
All of my track is "Scratch Built" and probably more than most will ever want to tackle. I just like to scrtach build as much as possible - my twerk.
Pine boards for sub roadbed splines - great flowing curves
Homasote for roadbed
Spackle compound or drywall mud.
Gray paint.
Kappler ties
Minwax stains
Hunterline stains
Highball ballast (still have a couple dozen bags) -alternative is Scenic Express or Arizona Rock
Micro Engineering rail - code 83, 70 and 55
Micro Engineering spikes
I use 1-inch nominal (3/4 inch actual) pine boards to create 3/16 inch wide splines. The pine boards guarantee a consistent sub roadbed thickness. To bend then into curves without breaking, I take them outside and spray them down with a garden hose. While still wet, temporarily clamp them to the risers. When dry they have a permanent curve in them. Same idea as using a plank box in wooden ship building. The pine also takes glue better and in my opinion is easier to use then other materials. Another advantage of the pine - any odd pieces can be further cut down with a smaller bench table saw for any type of structure or other modeling.
My 10 inch table saw has a 3/32 inch kerf blade. That small reduction in kerf over the width of a board will get you an extra spline or two.
Bundles of Splines and pre-curved splines
For the roadbed itself. I make my own 'homabed'. You can google Homabed to get a better idea of dimensions and how it's used. Yes when you cut Homasote it is very dusty - more dusty then you can imagine if you haven't done it before. That's why you never ever do it inside. Many have used box cutter knives or knife blades in a jigsaw - I think it just takes too much time, plus to get a consistent thickness it still needs to be split. Homasote is a pressed paper product only one side is relatively smooth the other side has dips and rises. Also the nominal 1/2 inch thickness is too thick for sub roadbed.
I use a table saw outside with a shop vac attached. I first cut the 4 x 8 ft sheet into 3 4ft x 32 inch panels. I do use a box cutter for this step. Then I cut the panels into 1 inch wide x 32 inch long strips. My shop vac is small so I have to dump it after each panel. I cut 1 inch strips so that I can do the split roadbed construction it makes it easier to later get it accurately in place and to curve. If you don't like to waste anything, the very fine dust can be mixed with plaster to create a home made Sculptamold type product.
Once I have the homasote sheet cut into strips. I split them length wise to get 1/4 inch thick mainline roadbed pieces. Set the saw blade at a height to cut just over half way through then run the strip through on the edges. Flip it over end to end and run it through the saw again. Make sure the smooth / flatter side is against the fence. You'll note that the thin strip that is cut off is not consistent in thickness over it's length. You can take these irregular thin strips and further reduce the thickness (be extra careful at this point with finger tips). They can use used for industrial spur or other trackage to give track elevation differences.
The Homasote strips are then run edge wise through a router. I have a 30 degree bit that when the strips are cut on the edges, create a 60 degree slope. I set the blade height so that the remaining flat top portion of the strip is just over one half the width of a 8 ft 6 inch tie length. I run each piece through twice to help remove fuzzies.
One 4 x 8 sheet of Homasote cut into roadbed (169 feet of single track).
The homasote strips are glued down to the pine splines with yellow glue and then weighted / clamped down until set. To get the roadbed to curve you have to cut slanted kerfs into the edges.I don not pre cut x number of strips, I take a very flexible 8 ft slat that is sold at big box stores ( I use this to layout where curves and transitions will go for a nice even flow of track). I have it marked in 1 ft and fractional sections. Using the slat placed over the sub roadbed I can note the actual length of the curved section. I then pick out the required number of roadbed strips and take then to a bench vise. I lightly clamp them in the vise so I can cut into the edge with a hacksaw. Makes diagonal cuts along the length (only cut over the supported section in the vice - then reposition the strips and start cutting again). The kerf cuts don't need to be perfectly / evenly cut. You just want to remove enough material so you can flex it around the curve. I have cut up to 4 strips at a time with no problem. If a section were to break off - you just glue it down butted up to the pieced it broke off of. Use a hand sanding block with say 80 grit paper to remove the fuzzies off the strip bottoms.
After the glue is dry spread a smooth layer of spackle or similar over the roadbed. This fills in the kerfs and any slight imperfections. Then sand smooth. Have the shop vac handy as you do this step.
After the spackle is dry, paint the roadbed with a gray color paint of something that is close to the color of the ballast you'll be using. With a good covering of the yellow glue on the bottom and paint on the edges and top, the Homasote roadbed is thoroughly sealed.
This photo shows the splines with Homasote roadbed installed. Spackle fills in the gaps and it is then painted a comparable color for the ballast to be used.
One note - I have seen the referenced video previously. I don't recommend using a palm or other electric sander. The electric sanders are too aggressive. The short length will increase the probability of creating a dip / vertical curve in the roadbed surface or later in the ties.
I have an 18 inch length of 1 x 3 pine board that I attach a section of belt sander paper too. 100 or 120 is the usual. It provides a longer more even surface to ensure your sanding efforts are more true / flat. And don't bear down light sanding is always better.
Wood ties - I pre-stain wood ties by the bags. The initial coloring is 3 different Minwax stains. Jacobean, Dark walnut and Ebony. I lay a large sheet of cardboard on the basement floor for working and drying. Pour the stain into a convenient plastic container and dump a bunch of ties into it. How many ties per color is completely random. Let sit for a minute or two. Use a cheap set of salad tongs to remove the ties to a strainer (you want to save the excess stain). Let drip dry for a few moments then dump out onto the cardboard. Spread out with the tongs to aid drying. (Plastic or latex gloves may be a good idea through this process). Let the ties dry for 2 - 3 days. I use gallon size zip lock bags - put all the different colors in the same back and give it a good shake as you fill it so that they come out randomly.
Glue the ties down with yellow glue and weight then down until set. I have multiple gigs I've made for making tie strips. I model the late 20's early 30's. I use as a guide the tie spacing as set forth by the Pennsylvania RR around 1912. The drawings I reference show 4 different tie spacings depending on track usage. 20 ties per 33 ft for heavy mainline track to 14 ties per 33 ft for yard and industrial sidings. The spacing difference is very noticeable when installed especially with different code rails. Once the glue is dry LIGHTLY sand the top of the ties with the LONG sanding block. You only want to take enough material off so the the tie tops are even. This may result in some ties having all the stain removed and others will have little to none removed. This variation will further improve the overall appearance of the track for very aged ties to newly replaced ties.
Once sanded and vacuumed I use the hunter line stains to randomly touch up the tops of the ties. I use an acid type brush and I slather rather than carefully paint the stain. I use three colors here Black, Dark Brown and Tie Brown. A originally stained ebony tie may get a tie brown stain. It just adds to the complete random colored appearance of the ties.
As dave1905 stated the ballast goes down before the rails. I start with using full strength wide glue to paint the sloped edge of the roadbed then sprinkle on the ballast. Have something under the roadbed to catch the loose ballast that doesn't stick. This ballasted edge will also help to contain the ballast that is applied between the ties and prevent it from being washed away when that part is glued down. I use a soup spoon to spread ballast over the top of the ties then use a large brush to evenly spread the ballast. Once it looks good I spray a mist of water and 70% alcohol over the ballast. I then use an eyedropper to thoroughly soak the ballast with a 4 to 1 water and matte medium mixture.
After the ballast is dry and any stray or loose pieces are ballast are removed. I hand lay my pre-painted and weathered rail.
Some install / progress photos of installing roadbed.
First two splines clamped to center line spacers
Centerline spacer and first two splines glued and anchored to riser.
Adding more splines.
Two more splines for each track will make the sub roadbed 2 inches wide.
The splines allow nice free flowing curves. (For those who might wonder - each metal bracket is rated at 220# of load. The standard is attacked to wall studs with #10 2-1/2 inch long screws. Once tied together it's very strong and stable.)
Track layed, scenery next.
