More Info

I am really enjoying the Illinois Traction System.  They had a lot of unique, home built stuff that is just different than other railroads.  This series of freight motors were built by McGuire-Cummings in 1910.  They initially carried freight in the middle, but also were able to pull several cars behind them as well.  After bigger electric locos were acquired, they were used in switching service, then their powered drives were removed and used as trailers (boxcars) later in life.  My tentative plan is create a 3D model using Sketchup, and then print it using Shapeways.  I am leaning towards using the powered Stanton Drive from Northwest Short Line.  We will see where this goes. 

Sketchup Info

Until recently, SketchUp had to be done on a computer.  Lately, I have discovered  http://my.sketchup.com/app is SketchUp, but all online in a browser format.  I began to use it with my Lenovo N21 Chromebook, but quickly discovered that I couldn't export it into a file that could be 3D printed.  Lo and behold, I was messing around with it the other day and discovered that this past August, 2017, they added an option to download the file as an .stl file for 3D printing.  

To check this, I quickly made the following object using Sketchup, a very rough mockup of the freight motor.  

I then was able to export it as an .stl file onto my Chromebook. 

Then, from the  http://www.shapeways.com/, I was able to upload that .stl file straight from my Chromebook into my models at Shapeways.  

This is what I've been waiting for.  I really enjoy my Chromebook as I can take it almost anywhere, hardly use a desktop anymore.  And, there is no water tight checks or anything like that.  Seems to be much simplified.  I hope I'm not missing anything here, but time will tell.  For those that are curious, the FUD for this Test Model is $138.42.  I'm pretty sure that the real thing will be cheaper as the walls will be much thinner, etc.  Again, time will tell.  

Following along

Although I know nearly nothing about traction, SketchUp is a favorite tool. I’m looking forward to watching and learning new tips and tricks. 

My approach

Good afternoon DC

I'm approaching my R33 in pieces.  Just a thought.

Replies

I want to be quick to say that I am no expert.  What I have learned is from trial and error and from watching youtube videos.  I have found that most any problem has a workaround, as long as I am patient and keep plugging away at it.  I'm sure that there are much more knowledgeable people that will know of much quiker ways to do what I am doing, but its all about the journey, right? 

@JohnF - nice looking model... Could you tell me a little more what that model is, how you plan on powering it, etc...

Thanks,

Doug

Curves

I wanted to make sure that I could do some curves on this beta version of Sketchup.  There for, I thought I would work on the end bumper/anticlimber part to see if I could create a complex curve without the plugins available on a desktop.  

I needed to create a complex curve.  I ended up going with this arch then adding a circle, then erasing the lines I didn't need.  Then I copied this side, rotated it, and moved it to the other side.  

When I extruded this curve, the faces were flipped, so I had to flip them back to the correct orienation where the white is pointing to the outside.  

This is the finished product on the end.  I am satsifed I can find a workaround with the few curves I will encounter.  I still might need some advice when I get to the roof though.  

Thanks, 

Doug

Follow Me

I have found curves easier to extrude using th “follow me” tool. You will pick it up quickly. That might make a roof end profile easier. 

Good morning Guys

The model is a NYC subway R33 car.  I may not be of much help because I build static displays.   For reference the site NYCSUBWAY.org has a wealth of information on the cars including drawings.  The site was down when i checked this morning but i think there is an interurban section also.

I imported a drawing and then used x-ray mode to trace the side and ends.   The example below is a different car.  The sides are .060 thick with the doors recessed .010.  I'm printing on an Anycubic I3 Mega.

John

Neil...

Hey Neil,

Could you point me to a video or do a little sketch or something to help me understand how follow me could help make a roof?  I'm not seeing it.  Thanks for your help.

Doug

update

I have made a copy and moved it up.  I have created the door and two of the windows by simply drawing lines and push pulling them to the correct thickness. 

Doug

Pictures

These are photos and drawings that I am using to create my model.  The first is a scale drawing made by Paul Moore.  I have used the dimensions in the following builders photo by McGuire-Cummins to make sure that the Paul Moore drawing is "close".  It seems to be to scale, at least good enough for what I want to do.  

Above Picture Courtesy of Mike Fourtney - (B C Xpress Mtr)  Paul Moore drawing

Above Photo Courtesy of Mike Fourtney - (McG-C page 16) Electric Railway Historical Society Bulletin #14

Above Photo Courtesy of Mike Fourtney - (CERA IT page Express Motors) CERA Bulletin #98

Shout out to historical societies

Just wanted to give a quick shout out to historical societies.  The guys at the Illinois Traction Society (The Illinois Terminal Historical Society) have been super generous with me regarding photos and pictures and information of various Illinois Traction and Illinois Terminal equipment.  To try and make models of equipment that was built over 100 years ago requires these types of things, and I am debt to these individuals for sharing what they know.  

FollowMe Video

I did a couple tests to illustrate FollowMe from the Tools menu but not sure how to do a screen capture at home. At work we have PowerPoint installed where I can start recording a video and stop to upload so will have to do that. 

Without a video, try taking an extruded shape, like a roof profile, and draw an arch from the top center of the end to  a point 90 degrees, or to the bottom of the roof. Highlight the end roof profile and select FollowMe. At this point you may need to try a few times to get what you expect but starting at the arc you will “pull” the shape of the roof along that new radius. 

Reading this takes more time than actually doing it so I’ll try to capture the process today at work. I seldom take breaks so will literally have to put it on my calendar!

more work

I did some more work on the sides.  I added the end window and the door, again by drawing lines and push/pulling what I needed.  I used the width of one of the windows to estimate the size of the boards and added the wood siding.  There is a .1mm gap between them that I will recess to give me the wood look on the model. 

This is the close up of the sidding.  

Since the sides are the same, I will next copy the side and spin it, and place it on the other side.  Then the ends.  

I am looking for input on the floor.  One option is to design it in a tougher 3D print material so that I can just 3D print the underbody detail.  It would have to be in the tough black plastic as it would need more strength than what the FUD has.  Or, I could go old school, and just use a piece of thicker brass and add the details from kit parts that I would buy.  Each option seems to have its advantages and disadvantages.  If you have any input, I would like to hear it.   

Doug

more work

Did a little more work.  Got the siding done and copied it and put the other side on.  Now to start on the ends.  

Back at it.

Started working on the ends.  Its been a long fall, can't believe it was October 10th when I last posted about it.  Here is where I got to tonight. 

Thinking of doing two different versions.  One would be the freight motor as shown in the pictures, then later in life these were stripped of their parts and used as simple freight trailers.  So the second version would be the trailer.  We will see.  

Next is the windows on the ends and then the roof.  

Sides are done

I've finished all four sides.  This makes the four walls.  

Thoughts?

Next up will be to attempt the roof. Holes will have to be drilled for grab irons and stuff. 

3D scans?

You guys are absolute artists! I find the whole process of making files for 3D printing scary and intimidating. For us who are drawing and computer klutzes, maybe someone could show how a 3D image is created using one of the scanning devices...  Seems a huge amount of drawing time could be saved.

Is Sketchup the best software to use for this application ?

I'm very interested in using 3D printing to create models that are otherwise unavailable.  I've actually done quite a lot of work with Sketchup and printed many pieces for our club.

It was interesting to read the comments above about having to reverse faces on Sketchup.  I spent many hours and a lot of plastic trying to get a large model to print, and had many weird failures.  The problem was that it involved a curved cutout on a curved surface.  Only when I discovered that faces had sides was I able to do a successful 20 hour print !

Since then I have avoided double curves and when I next have to do the same thing I will attempt to move to another modelling tool.  I think this link provides some very good advice

https://www.instructables.com/id/Which-3D-software-should-I-learn-for-3D-printing/

However, I think that for anyone just starting with a 3D printer, Sketchup is probably the fastest way to get some satisfaction.  I would suggest that when you know you will be spending some serious time doing designs, it might be good to look at alternatives.

back at it

Well, it's been a while.  I've made several 3D prints that are now available in my store including an IT caboose, a C&EI caboose, a C&EI tie car, as well as a P & R gondola.  Now I'm motivated to get this thing up and running.  I decided to mess around with the roof more.  I resized the shell to ten times the model size so that the curves would work better as there is more distance for them to do what they do.  I don't totally understand it, but circles and curves don't work well in small distances in SketchUp so you make them bigger then shrink them back down to size.  After messing with it, this is what I have come up with. 

The roof isn't exactly how I want it, but pretty darn close I think.  I think adding the running boards will make it match even more.  

I've ordered a set of precision scale trolley poles and am ordering the Bowser trolley drive 125115 which has a 6' 4" wheelbase (need 6' 6" for prototype) and 33" wheels (need 36" for prototype) which are good enough for me.  I also will get the A-line flywheel to add to this as well along with some shoes for the precision scale trolley.  I plan to do a separate 3D print for the side frames for the Bowser trucks.  Once I have these things in hand I will proceed with designing the floor and seeing about getting this thing printed.  

I've taken to using Fusion 360...

...which is free for hobbyists, but that's because my day job is literally 8 hours in Inventor, a $4000/year CAD system. Fusion 360 is quite powerful, and it solves many of the annoyances that plagued me with Sketchup.

Parts arrived

Nothing like spending some money on some parts to get you motivated to get going on it.  These are the parts.  Upper left is the Bowser mechanism, then some trolley pole shoes as the precision scale poles have wheels on the end, then the A-line flywheel and then some trolley pole bushings and lastly some offsets for the bowser mechanism to attach side frames.  

This is the Bowser trolley mechanism below along with the A-line flywheel behind it.  Bowser includes the dimensions of the holes and everything in the diagram on the paper behind the setup.  I will use that when I design the floor for this stuff to fit into.  The owner of West Coast Traction Supply shop on Shapeways has several Illinois Terminal kits for sale and I am using his methods to create this freight motor.  A link to how he assembles his stuff can be found

Trucks

I am planning on re-creating 1065 which is equipped with Curtis interurban trucks.  This is a closeup of the side frames. 

Curtis was an interurban manufacturer in Decatur Illinois.  The plan is the 3D print these as side frames.  I hope to make them to where they sit over the extension blocks I purchased from Customtraxx and simply screw them in holding everything in place.  I was a little afraid of how the springs would turn out but after messing with it for a little bit I am quite pleased with the progress so far.  

If at First you don't succeed...

Well, I thought I had it...

These are my Curtis truck side frames to fit my Bowser drive.  However, when I uploaded it to Shapeways, I got this rendering...

Notice anything missing?  So, I deleted the pilot and started over and when about it a different way.  This is what I ended up with. 

It should drop right onto the Bowser mechanism (I hope).  I've measured around 10 times and it seems to be what I am after.  I have it for sale now in my shop here. If anyone is bored, would you mind clicking on it and doing the 3D spin and seeing if you can find any flaws?

Thanks,

Doug