Clear, succinct and easy

Thank you.

That is quite a useful "how to" video.  Thanks for sharing.  

John P

I do like . . .

. . . the idea of using a piece of brass tubing to act as a bearing. 

smaller wire seems to work fine

Tim is using .037" wire, others have used .020" but over the weekend I decided to see if I could improve the action on a Micro Engineering code 83 #6 that is installed on my layout using .015" just to see if it had enough oomph (smaller is certainly less conspicuous). 

The existing ME spring was out of adjustment somehow and the points tend to favor one side, often throwing themselves when my operators were unaware, or worse, while a car was rolling through. 

Five minutes of work and the turnout now works properly. I didn't remove the existing spring, I just added one on top that's tiny. Using small diameter wire means the holes in the plastic ties are small too (I used a .016" bit) and leave plenty of material to resist the spring action. I'm sold, thanks to everyone who contributed to this topic.

Jeff Allen

The purpose of the video was

The purpose of the video was to show how to form the wire and how it works as a spring. This can be done in a variety of ways. Smaller wire will work, and there is no reason the wire needs to be between the rails. The spring could be offset onto the head ties and easily hidden. My preference is to use heavier wire as I find it provides a nice solid spring.

I've seen examples where the spring is mounted under the turnout, but I'd be nervous about getting access to it.

The spring could be smaller as well. In this video I wanted to use the two PC board ties as a pivot point as they provide a solid base for the spring. Also, it's easier to fashion a spring that is a bit larger.

For the best results, sink a piece of brass tube down into the roadbed next to the head tie, make a small spring with a fairly long leg to go down into the tube and into the PC board throwbar tie. Very easy to hide, but a bit more fiddly to make. 

How about some gaps??

As shown it would be a dead short!  Where would you suggest putting the gaps, as the pivot points are where they would usually be?

Bill

"Where would you suggest

    You could just gap the throwbar beside the spring. I double gap all mine both top and bottom for insurance since it only takes a few seconds per gap......DaveB 

Very nice video.  Informative

Very nice video.  Informative and enjoyable to watch.

easiest possible turnout throw!

I have been using this kind of switch throw on all 'reachhable' turnouts for years.  Two bends, one hole, and you're done.  The 'breakman' throws switch manually, just like the prototype.

Ken Ziebarth, Boulder

Great tutorial

This is a great, easy, and concise tutorial! I had seen and used this technique on some switches years ago, but it‘s nice to see this method of throwing switch point revived. Thanks for sharing!

Very well done

Excellet how to video.  Speaker was clear, photography crisp and well lit.

Center over spring

Great video and idea, simple and reliable.

But have to say that this kind of solution is already used by PECO since years!

Stefan

new customer

You just found a new customer.  I shy away from the super complex/time involved idea of hand laid track...and even more so on turnouts. (but I respect the work and love the Bronx Terminal.)  I have seen years of old videos of this same idea...but not as precise and not with the same idea of wire. I saw a video one time where this idea was presented using a paper clip.  

Your comments on the piano wire will have me ordering some from your company soon.

Best regards.

Thanks Tim!

I'm building all of my switches with Fast Tracks jig, and this is a great option to have.  I wish I'd know the fine points of this when I built my Timesaver layout for shows.  Alas, it's equipped with Caboose Industries ground throws.  But if they ever break . . .

Does the wire need to be on the top side?

I am wondering if a channel was made to make room for it below the ties, and mount the wire below.  Drill the hole 1/64" less than the diameter of the wire so friction holds onto the wire.  I like the idea of using this spring, I just don't like it above the ties.

FWIW

Ken L.

Yes but ...

Yes, you could do something underneath, but then if it breaks, you will be ripping up the turnout to fix it ... unless you make the cover removable somehow. Even then, getting under the throwbar will be a challenge.

I'm looking into just putting shims under each end of the throwbar to wedge it into position. I still need to experiment with it, but it seems like if you don't want anything visible, as long as the wedges work to hold the throwbar in place, that's *under* the throwbar. Pretty darn simple if it works.

The other option is tiny rare earth magnets on each throwbar end and pieces of steel music wire at the ends of the throw travel on each end. That would be almost invisible.

Instead of a shim I use a

Instead of a shim I use a piece of piano wire to provide friction. It look more like the throw bar for the switch stand.

"Instead of a shim I use a

   That's a nice visual refinement of the throwbar friction method......DaveB