The Path I took

Some of the basic stuff I learned here regarding a non-sound installation:

http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Atlas/S2/Atlas%20S2.htm

Here is the chassis with the shell off.  Remove the couplers first and the shell can be removed by lifting up on the cab, tipping it toward the front.

From the bottom, remove the motor holding screw:

The chassis with the motor out.  The truck pick-up wires may be cut from the top weight.  I painted the right side wires red to not mix them up:

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I cut some 1/8" I.D. styrene tubing approximately 1/8" long to attach to the inside of the shell to act as holders for the NCE sunny white LEDs that I used:

I placed Kapton tape over the motor mounting area.  I did relieve the frame by motor-tool grinding under the place where the bottom motor brush is to allow roo for the motor lead to be added:

I soldered the motor leads from the decoder, orange to the top, grey to the bottom.  Unscrew the brass brush holders from the plastic mounts to avoid melting them.  They are hefty brass pieces and require some heat to apply the solder to.  Then replace them into the holder and wrap the brush end with Kapton tape.  Using a nylon screw, attach the motor in place.  The old screws are 2-56, but the nylon ones are metric but will go in.  One can also see the Kapton tape attached to thelugs and mounting spots of the top weight:

The Loksound decoder comes with an eight pin plug.  As this model has no socket, hard-wiring is required.  The wiring is basic, "red and black to the track, orange and grey the other way."  The purple and green wires are auxiliary functions and will not be used so I taped the ends so that they may not short against anything.  Kapton tape also applied under the decoder.  I used a nylon screw o hold the top weight down and also some good old Kapton tape:

I test fit the body and found that the decoder just fit a little too soon.  I relieved the inside shell with my dremmel and cutting bur VERY CAREFULLY to avoid grinding through the top.  If I were to do another, I would grind the top weight thinner instead:

I installed the LEDS and 1,000 ohm resistors using the white front, yellow rear and blue common wires.  The brown wires go to the speaker that I attached with cement to the rear top truck cover:

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I hope this was helpful to any one with an older model to apply sound to.  I am truly impressed with the sugar cube speaker and the sound produced by the Loksound Micro.  As one can see, the decoder is really small and should help being used in a lot of switchers.

Cab "glass"

The cab windows is a one piece item that needed to be drilled for the LED installation.  I did start to do this, but found it would be a lot easier to do away with that piece.  I cut pieces of .005 clear styrene to fit the front, rear and sides, leaving an opening around the rear light that worked out well.

Excellent!

Great looking and more importantly, sounding install. 

 Great tutorial, thanks for

Great tutorial, thanks for posting the build steps.

Carter