What brand are they?

walthers # 4 and #6

walthers # 4 and #6

I'm having the same issue. . .

I belive filing down the

I belive filing down the frogs will solve the problem my home layout is dcc now and having a logging layout with creeping steamers must have a flawless operation. thank you paul for chiming in. my names randy and im here all week lol

Are they flat?

Dear Paul, ??? (Dahmer),

My first question would be, do the turnouts (any/all brands and forms) 
sit flat (like, sit-flat-on-a-pane-of-glass flat)

straight out of the box?

If NO, then immediately return/fail them.

If YES, then it suggests the "bend up" may be something to do with the track-laying procedure,
(we've all been there... ever soo-slightly too much force while lacing them, 
trackpins in the centre of the sleepers/ties pushed-down too far,
causing the ties to buckle and form a shallow "V", with resulting distortion,
etc etc), 

the trackage geometry,
(curves at both ends can push on the turnout assembly, torque-twisting and/or folding-along-centreline),

a non-flat roadbed or roadbase
​(a joint where roadbed strips "butt together" pushing up under the turnout)..

or Environmental
(a turnout which was dead-flat out-of-box, was laid with meticulous care,
but has been subject to heat/rail-expansion/contraction forces,
inc from soldered rail lenngths _beyond_ the turnout in question,
could be distorted with resulting issues???)

Just thinking out loud...
(I've abused and distorted many a PECO turnout. but never had one initially bent-out-of-the-box,
and had many survive the torture and still live to run flawlessly for years... ).

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

yes my switches are flat i

yes my switches are flat i ran a straight edge over the frog from rail to rail and it was a ovias sight that the frog sits signifagantly higher

Check the gap of the check

Check the gap of the check rail . If the gap is too wide it lets the wheels pick the point of the frog causing that clicking sound. I glue a shim to the side of the check rail to close the gap. Some times its been up to 25thou.

Material in the flangeways

Randy, I believe excess material in the flangeways is part of the problem on the Shinoharas I'm working with. I see the tread of the wheels riding high while passing through the frog on the diverging leg. You might be able to check for the same issue in addition to the wheel picking the point of the frog.

I'll "volunteer" a donor turnout tonight to take the Dremel tool to with a dental bit. Perhaps cleaning out the flangeway will help.

Les also has a good recommendation to cure what has been on ongoing issue with Shinohara turnouts, and likely Walthers' too, seeing as how the latter is made in the same factory,

Thankfully I've not laid any of these down on the layout yet. ...

While filing down the frog

While filing down the frog may be the answer, I have seen raised frogs on store purchased turnouts it may end up filling too much will cause your wheel flanges to bottom out once again raising the wheel tread off the rail. This will be a worst case scenario but may happen. I'll throw it in here http://store.mrhmag.com/store/p131/ebook/run-like-a-dream-trackwork

There ya go Joe.

OK, Neil, ya sold me!

no argument there. I have

no argument there. I have been hand laying for many years and am very happy with my freeform geometry method of track laying. for basic switches I use the fastrack template, but for other I design them in cad and use a paper template to build from. I don't use the jigs as I prefer to build in place. 

"While filing down the frog

      The way to fix that is a narrow file with teeth on the edge. When we build frogs from scratch we have the same operation to perform after filling them with solder. I've collected a few files over the years that are the correct width for flangeways in various scales

       The 0-6-0 mentioned in the beginning of this thread might be stalling simply because the frogs are not powered and the wheels are getting lifted off the adjacent metal rails, so a powered frog ( or a longer wheelbase more flexible engine)might be all that's needed to fix the original problem......DaveB 

  The way to fix that is a

I used to build them this way also Dave, but found the fastracks method a far superior and a better operating and looking turnout.  

Paul I haven't attempted any

paul be carfull removing

paul be carfull removing extra material from inside the frog points to much removal can cause a drive wheel drop witch can cause a teter afect and loose power as well

Roger!

im to the point that i gota

im to the point that i gota walk away for a minute and replace some switches

Wheel Flanges???

Your locomotive may be the issue!  Especially if it's an older model with non RP-25 wheels.  Just a thought. 

thanks nelson i have taken

thanks nelson i have taken that into consideration as well

But mine's not

Well my solution was to file

Ditto, Randy

one down and so many more to

one down and so many more to go..

"I used to build them this

  The fast tracks method is just regular turnouts built in a jig, one can solder fill fast tracks frogs if desired or leave frogs open when not using a fast tracks jig, it's just a matter of desired appearance and performance. Fast tracks does simplify  the construction by leaving off point hinges and using minimal PC board ties but that's not an original design, some folks were doing that for years before fast tracks came along. Fast tracks is kinda like chopping your veggies with a vegematic instead of a chef's knife, both give you something you can cook in the end. ....DaveB