SP Steve

I watched the "Back to the Basement" TMTV video with Miles Hale that showed his module rotisserie. I thought that was a great idea so I made one. I also made a 2' x 8' module to hang on it. JoeF mentions the TOMA concept and the 2x6 module. That size doesn't work for me in my layout space but a couple 2x8 modules do. I'm actually starting my first model railroad! 

[attach:fileid=/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/SP Steve/Module01.jpg]

[attach:fileid=/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/SP Steve/Module02a.jpg]

[attach:fileid=/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/SP Steve/Module02.jpg]

[attach:fileid=/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/SP Steve/Rot01.jpg]

[attach:fileid=/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/SP Steve/Rot02.jpg]

Reply 0
joef

A-frame-o-matic

Ah, the A-frame-o-matic! Great idea that makes working on modules easy ... nice job.

The following video is a bit tongue-in-cheek, but you get the idea. You can see the entire video on TMTV here.

https://player.vimeo.com/video/141856878

I know as I get older, building layouts this way in sections is very appealing. Maybe those who are much younger than me don't see the need to make construction easier on their poor bodies?

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

[siskiyouBtn]

Read my blog

Reply 0
allowe

Another solution

But if you have modules of varying widths and/or lengths, or don't have room to store a rotisserie, you can accomplish much the same thing with 2 8' 1x4s and a pair of sawhorses.

For a 4' module, place the sawhorses 3' apart. Set the module on top. Attach a 1x4 to each side with clamps. Spread the sawhorses to 6' apart. Get a friend (even a wife would work! < grin> ). Each grab one end and spin. 

I've worked on lots of "finished" modules this way. When I'm done, the sawhorses fold away and the 1x4s go back to lumber storage. Voila!

AL

Reply 1
Jim at BSME

A-frame looks better to me

Since it looks like the A-frames just attach by bolt to the end of the module, you would not have anything under foot as the saw horses would be.  Also you should be able use it for any size module as well since they just attach to the module end, and finally it only requires one person to move to any angle.  Saw horse idea limits to 90 degrees.

The only downside is the storage of the a-frame, but looks like they don't take up that much space.

- Jim B.
Baltimore Society of Model Engineers, Estd. 1932
O & HO Scale model railroading
Check out BSME on: FacebookInstagram
Reply 0
SP Steve

Space

Once the A frames aren't needed they stack together and can be put away almost anywhere, even a closet. I have less than $30 in them including everything. I'm really glad I made them. Originally I made them too tall. I shortened them to where the track height is 44", that is a comfortable working height for me.

Rot01(1).jpg 

Track02.jpg 

Reply 1
DougL

Could have used that instead of all surface mount

I chose to surface mount all switch machines because I did not want to work under the layout. This would have made it easier to install under the table equipment.  It will also work with L modules if they are approximately 4ft x 4ft, allowing me to lay out curves and solder in place. 

My little modifications would be

  • casters to move it around
  • temp supports underneath to stabilize and level the module while fastening it to the wall and adjoining modules

 

 

--  Doug -- Modeling the Norwottuck Railroad, returning trails to rails.

Reply 1
SP Steve

switch machines

The module I'm working has a bunch of turnouts and I'll be mounting switch machines.  The thought of soldering under the benchwork was not very motivating, so I completely get what you're saying.  Should work fine with L shaped modules. Actually one of the modules I'm constructing will have a 2' L section on one end.

Reply 0
Ron Ventura Notace

Modifications?

Another possible modification might be to have the upright so it can slide up and down in the "leg". Then by drilling a series of holes through the upright and the wide side of the leg, you could adjust the height, securing it with a bolt and wing nut at each end.

Ron Ventura

Melbourne, Australia

Reply 1
JerryRGS

What Episode is this in?

Found it. Jan 2015 Back to the Basement Wiring

Jerry

Reply 0
joef

Yep ...

Yep, that's the one!

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

[siskiyouBtn]

Read my blog

Reply 0
highway70

http://ray-mathews.com/the-ti

http://ray-mathews.com/the-tiltable-book

Reply 0
X18South

Neat, but it's not exactly new

I'm not criticizing this concept, but I've seen it before! LONG before in the March 1977 RMC by Al Westerfield!

 

http://trc.trains.com/Train%20Magazine%20Index.aspx?articleId=24881&view=ViewIssue&issueId=1531

 

His concept involved having a layout on BOTH sides of the unit. I'm a bit rusty on that issue as it's been a while since I've read it, but as I recall, the way he made it, his young daughter could flip it from one side to another.

 

I have to say though, I do like the idea of not having to get under the layout for wiring! And I enjoyed the video too!

Reply 0
PredatorBeing

If your stuck with under the layout...

Saw this the other day and thought it is neat to share. It's a powered shop chair. 

http://www.humanhoist.com/video

Reply 0
DreamCajon
Is there a drawing for the A-frame-o-matic?
Reply 0
Reply