traintalk

I have had some request to share the design of my free standing modules. I had a few criteria for my new layout.

1. Since the layout will be in a spare bedroom it will be a round-the-walls design. The space is 10 feet against the back wall and 14 feet against the side wall in an L shape design.

2. I will be moving in the next few years and I hope to take it with me, so the modules must be free standing and come apart. The bedroom door opening is 28 inches with the door open, therefore the depth of the modules must be less than 28 inches including the backdrop.

3. The bedroom is upstairs and there is a curve to the stairs. Careful measuring indicated that the modules can not exceed 6 feet to get around the bend and over the banister. 

4. A friend of mine is also building a layout and he used the shadowbox design with an integrated backdrop and overhead. So we decided that would be the way to go.

The layout is constructed of 4 modules. One 6 foot, one 4x4 foot corner module and two 5 foot modules. The depth of the modeling surface is 24 inches with 3 inches for the backdrop and supporting structure. We used cabinet grade plywood for rigidity and stability. 

I hope this helps answer some of your questions.

--Bill Beverly

Here is a shot of the early side plywood cuts. Basically we cut a big C in the plywood, here we have several plywood sections held together. One the right is the bottom with the holes drilled to pass wires through. The bottom section is actually the vertical support for the backdrop, giving me 24 inches. To the left will be the overhead support.-c-frame.jpg 

Here is a shot of one of the modules in the early stage where the bottom box is coming together.

ly-frame.jpg  

Next the bottom box is constructed and ribs are inserted with wire holes. The backdrop and overhead boards are attached which gives a lot of strength. A top valance is attached to keep everything straight.

backdrop.jpg 

The corner module was a little tricky because it had to have a removable backdrop to get the module up the stairs. It was very important that everything is square.

-coner-3.jpg 

This shot shows how the backdrop fits into the corner module. All modules are bolted together and there are alignment pins to make sure things are aligned.

r-back-1.jpg 

Simple legs are constructed with bolts on the feet to level the layout on the floor. The bedroom has carpet, so blocks were put on the carpet and the bolts where used to micro adjust the height.

5footers.jpg  

Here is a shot of the modules for a first fitting. The tops are plywood with Homasote on top. When the track is laid the plywood and Homasote will be cut and risers will be added to raise and lower the trackbed.

y-left-1.jpg 

The backdrops received their first painting and staining of the valance and lights are added.

everly-5.jpg 

The results of all this gave me modules that are freestanding, transportable when moving and "no wall brackets or damage to the walls."

oom-0359.jpg 

Final wide shot of the modules installed in the bedroom.

oom-0362.jpg  

Hope this helps. Questions?

Here is a link to my Flickr account with shots of my friend Charlies layout in the beginning and my layout under construction at the bottom. You can click on any of the pictures for a larger view and then use the right arrow to move to the next picture.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/23101722@N06/albums/72157648138830274/with/16561787423/

Cheers Bill.

Reply 0
David Husman dave1905

Nice Job

Looks like quality work.  I helped a friend build similar modules only he had double coves on the backdrop (curved in both the horizontal and vertical planes.  Not for the faint of heart.

Looks like you are using florescent bulbs.  Did you consider LED's?

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

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Reply 0
rickwade

That's some fine

That's some fine craftsmanship!  The modules look great!

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

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Reply 0
Taddeoj

Nice job

i wish had carpentry skills like that.  I am trying to rope my cousin into helping me as I have zero knowledge on how to build benchwork.  Electronics, no problem, but carpentry is lost on me.

Anyways, good luck, you are off to a great start and I look forward to following your progress.

Reply 0
traintalk

Did you consider LED's?

@dave1905 ;

Dave;

Your question about LEDs? I did not very much about them. We had used they florescent fixtures in the past, so we went with the tried-and-true.

The back corner of the corner module will be covered with mountain scenery and a few BIG trees. It is hard to mask the corner. In the past I have used those cardboard tubes that are cement forms that are used for fence post. The cardboard is about 1/4 thick and the tube is 8" in diameter and a few feet long. You basically slice a curve out of the tube length wise. Then sand a taper the edges at an angle until the curve slides into the corner.

--Bill B.

 

Reply 0
RAYMOND CLIFFORD

modual

Most impressive work. I built a 20 ft portable module and used it for 5 years to go to train shows. Tried wood first set up time was a killer, 3 to 4 hours ,not your problem., yours is semi permanent .  My solution was to  steel a  Idea from a Australian group and use .3/4 in light weight square tubing very strong and LIGHT. I used alignment pins and 1/4 in bolts for set up0 , my legs were telescoped into sockets with turn buckles. Yes I know this not foe every one.Lighting I took out my incandescent and replaced it with 4 stripes of LEDS  one strip being colored this system is dimmable to create night. . Cost wise about 250 dollars  instillation hours . best thing i did Keep up the good work    RAY    I will send photos if you are interested

Reply 0
traintalk

20 ft portable module

@RAYMOND CLIFFORD

Ray; your modular layout sounds like an interesting design. Why don't you create a blog and post pictures and describe your design and building methods.

I would be interested in your LED strips, which ones you used and where you placed them.

--Bill Beverly 

Reply 0
Kelly kregan

Very nice work, you should be

Very nice work, you should be proud of it.

Reply 0
jmt99atsf

Great Job

Your woodworking skills are highly evident in the modules that you have done.  Great job!!!  Looking forward to future posts.  Thanks

Reply 0
RAYMOND CLIFFORD

I  used self stock L E D

I  used self stock L E D strips. mounted to coraplast set at a 45 degree angle to focus on the scene. I used their supplied 12 volt power supply and a dimmer . one strip of red green blue was used to create a night scene to bring out the building inside detail .. Ware I had a dark area I addet a short strip stuck to a 45 degree strip . No rocket science here butit works and is effective. Hope these photos will come through

Reply 0
Jstackpole

Corner

What isn't completely clear is how the corner module's facia and backdrop are secured. It looks like that module doesn't use the same C-frame construction as the straight units.
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