You can find already quite a number of examples on the internet how to convert the trucks to 2-rail. I have used 33" from NWSL. As insulation I used Evergreen 1/8" tube. For the ones willing to try note that the inner diameter is a touch to small so you have to "hand drill" it to the right size.

I made the current pickups from 0.5 mm brass wire. Just enough stiffness to keep a firm contact with the wheels without to much pressure. Here below the new wheels already mounted

The pickups are fixed with m2 bolds. Making holes like on the picture here above and threading 2m threads in it.

The pickup folded to fit the bold

One side of the pickups are insulated from the truck. I use the locomotive's frame for the current carriage so I only need on one side insulated current pickups.

The non insulated current pickups.

The insulate pickup on the other side of the truck.

A challange are the couplers. There is just not enough space between the frame and the trucks to install Kadee's and as 2-railer you do not want to use the 3 rail couplers.

I used Kadee's 745. Cut them about 1 mm behind the shoulder (see below picture) and put a m 1.6 bold in it (drill a hole and make the m 1.6 thread in it).

 Take a aluminum L frame (max size 10 mm / 0.4"). Cut it to only 1.25 mm / 0.5". The coupler comes on 3 mm / 0.12" from the corner of the L frame in the center.

Make a m2 hole in the top side of the truck and you are there.

The rest is pretty straight forward. You have to install a DCC decoder if you want to use DCC. She runs good (have not yet installed a sound decoder) and will be used quite a lot on my switching layout.