Wall thickness

I think that two pieces laminated directly together will end up with a wall that is to thin. I don't know how big your building is, or what scale your working in, but a two story brick building will have walls around a foot thick. I seem to remember that Plastruct brick is pretty thin material. you might want to sandwich some other material between the brick sheets.

thickness

I will hyave to add something in between on any wall that's going to have edges visible--not sure what to add, though, to make it easy to work, and inexpensive.

Min wall thickness is

Min wall thickness is something to consider.

Back in the day a wood wall was about 6" thick as a min.

A brick veneer on a wood wall (not very common back ithe day) was a min of about 10

A brick wall is a min 8" assuming exposed brick on the inside. As you need at least two layers of brick interconnect.  (A detail that most brick walls and brick sheets in the hobby are missing)  usually a brick wall was about a foot thick as it had a gap in the middle that was sometimes left open, and other times fill with various materials. On a multi story building it was usually filled.

Now a typical brick wall that was not exposed on the inside was about 4" thicker then an exposed brick wall. As a wood wall was built inside the brick.  Sometimes in a two story building this wall held up the floor.  But the brick held up itself.  However usually the brick held up the floors and roof and the wood wall was just to attach the finished plaster to and to hold insulation and plumbing and electrical and such. Note this is pretty much the "standard" wall for buildings around the turn of the century until the brick veneer wall became more common. Sometime after WW 2.

A multi story brick wall is thicker then what I list.  And gets thinner as it goes up.  This is why high rise buildings did nit exist until steel started being used as the brick was so thick in the lower levels as to make it impractical to build.

Nite that these descriptions are fast and crude and very very general.  But give a reasonable idea of what was common.

So you would normally see in buildings built about the time of the DPM buildings with walls in the 12" to 16" range. Most likely about 12"'

So frankly the DPM buildings walls are not really all that thick.

Now by today's standards the Windows are a bit crude but you could just replace them.

I do wonder what you are modeling.  For while it is common to expose inside brick now days it was pretty rare years ago.  Unless you were talking about an industrial building.

Also if you can find a plastic supplier in your area you can get plastic sheets on 4x8 for $30 to $60and have a lifetime supply of plastic for walls.

I hope this helps.

-Doug

Modeling a gym

I'm modeling a brick storefront that has been repurposed.  Originally, it was a furniture showroom and locval distribution center that recieved some of its merchandise by rail.  After things changed, the building became a boxing gym.  Water damage to the interior walls resulted in the plaster being torn off, and not replaced.  detailes of the plan here: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/23818

The actual gym I went to was a firestatioin, and later a nightclub, and many other things, over the century and a half the building was there, and the brick walls were exposed inside; the owners and boxers did most of the remodeling.

Glue Touchy

Hi IrishRover,

I've had some issues laminating thin plastic sheets using plastic glues.

Too little glue - fragile/separated wall.

Too much glue - wall warps or bubbles.

I've had better luck by sanding the mating surfaces, using water based glues and pressing the wall flat while the glue dries.