jmt99atsf

I am in the process of finishing the fourth of five levels on the second spline helix.  It takes me about a week to add the section, install the cork roadbed and track and do the soldering required for the feeders as well as soldering the track sections.  This could probably be done faster if I was in a hurry or if I did not have chores around the house. 

I thought that a few pictures of how I add each helix section would be of interest so here they are.  The first picture shows the next section of spline helix ready to be lifted into place.  Either I got stronger or I've learned how to do this alone, but I am able to lift the section and put it in place and/or remove it by myself.  When building the first helix, I always needed help.  It may be the number of threaded rods in the first one caused some issues since I have cut the number in half on the second one. Each turn or section of the spline helix is not heavy at all but it is somewhat awkward to handle.

_to_lift.jpg 

The second picture shows how the cuts are marked so the sections can be joined.  After marking the top and bottom cuts, the section is taken outside to be cut since I am trying to minimize the amount of dust in the train building.

s_marked.jpg 

The third picture shows the section after the cross cuts and the biscuit joint cuts have been made. I make the biscuit cuts for a #20 biscuit.  I try to use a #20, however, sometimes I have to use a #10 biscuit if the joint is too tight.

uts_made.jpg 

The fourth picture shows the joint has been made on a temporary basis while I mark the location of the screw eyes.  A rubber band can be used to ensure that your marking is exactly where the threaded rods passes vertically on the side of the spline or you can just use a calibrated eyeball (which is what I use most of the time).  Note, I had mentioned that because our local hardware store had burned to the ground, I had bought a lot of screw eyes from ebay.  The new screw eyes are a little longer and the wire diameter is bigger, however, they still work fine.

rew_eyes.jpg 


The fifth picture shows the installation of the cork roadbed and the trick that I learned during the building of the first helix.  Note that all of the screw eyes have been installed.  You can also see that the last part of the upper section has been left in a high position.  This allows me to work on the track on the lower section more easily.  When that work is done, then the upper section is adjusted to its proper height and tightened down on the threaded rod. I could do the same process with the upper section in its adjusted position if need be, however, this technique is the one that I now use.  Also, if the sections being joined with the biscuit don't quite line up laterally, I use a short section of threaded rod to force the joint to the proper location.  This is still a problem that I discovered when building the first helix.  It could be related to the curves on either end of the straight section being slightly different. 

d__track.jpg   

Thanks for reading the saga of the spline helix.  Please don't hesitate to ask questions.  After the second one is completed and in position I will get back to building the rest of the new layout.

Blog index:  https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/jmt99atsf-blog-index-12219303
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seustis13

Great Tutorial

Thanks for your careful attention to detail; you've done a really nice job showing us exactly how to use your method, and your pictures show that you are clearly very skilled at the carpentry aspect of the hobby.  Still, it seems to me that spine helix construction is one of the most time-consuming methods for building a helix I've seen.

I'm from a different planet regarding construction; I suspect that I spent about as much time cutting, connecting and supporting (on simple sawhorses) all seven of the doors under my 14 x 12 layout as you've spent on each turn of your helix!  One of the great things about this hobby is that it involves so many different sub-hobbies; we all have different interests and skills, and we're probably both really happy we've chosen to handle each step of the process the way we have.

Sandy

sandysacerr.com

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jmt99atsf

Spline Helix Construction Process

Thank you for your comments.

Yes it is very time consuming to build a helix made from spline strips.  However, one of the main enjoyments that I get from this hobby is building stuff that I have not tried before.  In this case, I have never built spline roadbed or a helix before so I combined the two into one. Since I had only found a couple of people that had used spline in a helix and their designs would not have worked in my situation, I had to develop something that I could use to get trains from the main level to hidden staging while not blocking the entry door to the train building.  I took a look at removable bridges but my wife of 42 years did not want me to block the door.  The only way to meet that requirement is with a helix on each side of the door.  Since I was doing this project, I decided to try to document every step of the process, first, so I would not forget how to do it, and second, to show how I did it to anyone that wanted to try it themselves.

My previous layout was in my house and it had been under construction from 2004 to late 2010 when it was dismantled.  This was because I needed to re-add the bedroom that was removed during the home's construction.  The picture below shows the layout in 2008 (messy as it was at the time).  It was built in a 13'6" x 14' area of a 22' long room.  The layout had been functional for about a year and a half and I had been getting ready to install scenery.  It was a DC only controlled layout and was based upon the original Sunset Valley RR built by Bruce Chubb.  It had two problems that bugged me, namely, narrow aisles and no staging because it was a point to loop design.  Major design goals of the new layout were 36" minimum aisle widths and staging and since I am building a brand new layout, I decided to switch from DC to DCC.

s_layout.jpg 

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