That is very impressive

Nice work Richard. Can you embellish the the photos with some of the details of the materials you used and how you assembled the structure? Also about paint and weathering?

Dick, I forget how may pts

Dick,

I forget how may pts are need for the merit award?

Also i assume you had that judges at the workshop mtg?

-Doug M(eyer)

.Lights

AP Award Structure

I will try to answer questions and add details about the structure.

First: To Doug - the min. points required are 87 1/2 up to a max. of 125

Second: To David - the lighting was quite simple, I used 1/16" dia. brass rod, but could have been smaller but 1/16" is what I had on hand. I mounted the two bus rods in pieces of 1/4" square styrene and glued them into the building below the roof supports. I used 26 ga. stranded wire for the two feed lines that will go down through the bench work to the main bus wires which run all around my layout. These main bus lines are 14 ga. stranded wire. They in turn hook up to a 12 volt/12 amp. DC output power supply (actually a computer power supply). I bought it from All Electronics PN-3501, Micro ATX Switching P4 350 watt power supply @ $37.50 now. The good thing about this power supply is that in comes with a built in cooling fan. Now back to the rest of the lighting. The two outside lights above the freight doors are from Miniatronics Corp. Model #72-105-05, 12v/30mA. What I did was to tightly twist the wires up near the shade and then form them into the goose neck shape. Then I applied a couple heavy coats of thick CA to help them hold their shape. The other lights in the building are from Micro Mark PN-82590C clear grain of wheat bulbs package of 100 for $44.00. As you can see the leads are just solder to the bus rods.

Third: As for the construction - I used .060 styrene for the foundation, floor and the roof. The brick walls are Walthers Brick sheet #933-3524. The windows & doors are from Grandt Line. Roof details are from Walthers Modulars Roof Top Details kit. The downspouts and electric meter I scratch built from parts sprue. As for painting I only use Acrylics. After painting the building and in this case I hand painted the misc bricks a different color to add some interest and make it look more realistic. The whole building is then air brushed with Model Masters Clear Flat finish. Then a LITE over spray with a highly diluted mix of Isopropyl Alcohol & Polly Scale Tarnished Black. After this is dry I lightly dry brush everything with Apple Barrel #2608 Country Tan artist acrylic paint. I found a new material to use for window glazing - use the plastic blister packing material (but check to see if your glue will have any effect on it). I use the blister packing that Walthers Modulars come in with no problem. I spray the inside of the windows with MM Flat finish so you can't see inside the building, but the light still shines through The signage was all made on my computer using Power Point and then printed on Evans Designs white decal paper. There is another discussion on MRH site about making your own decals.

So I hope this all helps to better understand how I did it.

Richard

SWEET!

This is a nice looking building that could go on a layout in almost any era  Well done!

LEDs?

Windows

Blister packs are a great source of window material. Canopy glue works well for sticking it in place and holds a little better than white glue. Aileen's Tacky Glue from craft stores would also work.

92 points?

Richard your work is extremely creative and innovative. I would give you 125 points. I love the way you did the lighting. The brass rod technique is sweet. Easy to get to and unsolder when needed. I am sure that brickwork was tedious as all get out, but the results were well worth it. Awesome job very inspirational.

structure

very nice! I bet you could pose this on a diorama and with lighting and filters,pass it off as a real building. Its that good.

2 things. what scale is it? whats an ap award?

john