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Depends on the kind of pipe

Depends on the kind of pipe you are looking for.  I have done some rather cool precast pipe loads on the 3D printer.

Length of Pipe

I often see pipe loads on models which are the full length of a 50 foot car. In over 40 years of project work in industry, I've never seen pipe lengths over 40'  and I've only seen lengths over 20 feet on a couple of occasions. 

Standard pipe lengths are:

20' random                  18-25 feet long
20'                               20 feet long
40' double random      38-40 feet long
40'                               40' long

The majority of pipe is manufactured in 20' lengths.  40' lengths are difficult to handle; but on long runs of  welded pipe, such as major pipelines, reducing the number welds is a great advantage in both time and cost.

This then brings up the question of how to neatly cut straws to 20' lengths with nice square ends.  Has anyone found a good method for doing this?

Precast pipe

You willing to sell some? c3ragtop@gmail.com

Michael H

NWSL Chopper (+ optional sacrificial balsa core)

Dear Jim,

In previous _precise_ _repeatable_ straw-cutting missions,
a NWSL Chopper with a fresh blade has worked for me...

...although I know that the variability of the plastic formulation of the specific-straws-in-use may be an issue,
some straws don't like being cross-section-crushed and split longditudinally in consequence,
some (and thankfully, the ones I've happen-to-use previously) handled it fine and returned to "visually perfectly round" without issue...

...and of-course, if crushing _is_ a concern, a sacrificial piece of suitably-sized strip balsa
(cheaply available under the "artmil" brand at many hobby shops),
slipped up inside the straw, will act as a "solid core" to withstand the crush-force,
and allow the straw to be cut-without-significant-deformation or damage...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Cutting without crimping

Back in the RC airplane days, the trick to cutting brass tubing without crimping the ends was to place an exacto blade perpendicular on top of the tubing and roll the brass rod back and forth on the workbench until the tubing separated.  Not much down pressure is needed.  The same method works really well with plastic straws, but as mentioned above, you need to insert a sacrificial dowel into the straw to prevent it from being crushed. 

And, I've also had pretty good success just cutting them with an ordinary pair of scissors - especially the smaller diameter coffee stirrers. 

Jim Fisher

Hey Jim,  It sounds like you've had experience in the industry.  Would it be more typical for larger diameter pipes to come in longer lengths?  I've taken inspiration from prototype photos showing 30" (a guess) diameter and also photos of 18" (again a guess) diameter pipe the full length of an 89' flat.  Would these typically be the exception rather than the rule?  Of course, my knowledge and experience of pipeloads are limited to prototype photos and trying to emulate them. 

Would loads typically all have the same length pipe, or would they be varied? 

Thanks. 

CONTAINERMAN68 knows Pipe, ask him

If anything I would ask this guy on YouTube - Granted he drives a Semi Truck but he moves loads of pipe all over the US,  Pipe is his primary load.  I'm sure he could share all sorts of information about moving pipe and it probably will crossover to the railroad, considering he picks up the pipe at many transfer points with the railroads.

So for load size...   It probably will never be any longer than a semi truck flatbed and then you need to look at the the ability to move the load with a fork lift.  Thinking back to when I drove a fork lift at Ford (Early 90's).  I would move full size truck frames and it was a 2 and 3 man operation with the warehouse fork lift.  The frames do not flex like pipe either. 

https://www.youtube.com/c/CONTAINERMAN68

Hot wire cutter?

I would give it a go with a hotwire cutter and see what happens 

Melted, bulged, deformed ends... (ugh)

Melted, bulged, deformed ends which look nothing like intentional "pipe flares", and eliminate one of the key benefits of using straws, the automatic "scale thickness wall" appearance...

...reccomend sticking with cut/chop technique in this instance...

Happy Modelling,

Aim to Improve,

Prof Klyzlr

...

Why?

The straws are cents on the dollar.

I would think a heat gun and a dowel slightly larger with the end beveled to allow insertion into the straw as it warms up.  A second dowel may be needed to retain the rest of the straw's shape.

Like you are an expert

You are so wrong, but thank you for being the resident expert on everything.

I just did this by Hand,

I just did this by Hand,  I will give you a hint the two straw end that you think are cut with a hot wire... are not.  the Straws on the left are the cut straws, the straw ends on the right are cut from the factory. (Blue then Clear)  Straws are small coffee straws and a thin clear straw I pulled out of the trash.

And I used this wire hot wire cutter.  If it was set up in a nice little jig it would more than likely be perfect ends

Happy to be proven wrong by evidence

Az,

Always happy to be proven wrong by evidence, as you've provided. Apologies for not posting pics of my previous hot-wire examples (from, IIRC, over 5 years ago?), which were found to be ugly as-described, not worthy of having their pic taken, and summarily discarded...

BTW, any thoughts on differing results due to different plastic formulations used in various straws + different heat settings on the cutter?

Prof Klyzlr

modeling pipe can be a

modeling pipe can be a problem.  
I have been looking for a way to model scale  diameter (say, HO scale 6 or 8”) flanged pipe, the old fashioned case iron that used lead and oakum (sp?) .  It was used on a water tank the C&O build to feed from the tank to water columns.  And is very visible running from the bottom of the tank to the ground.

-Doug M

3D print

Dear Doug,

3D printing is a solution, whether you print the entire pipe INC the flanges and ribs,
or
just print "slip-on flange/rings" details which fit onto commercial 0.060 - 0.080" styrene/brass tube...

OR

- check out the "pipe detail" kits from Ratio in the UK
https://peco-uk.com/products/gutters-and-drainpipes

...OR (mystery 3rd option),
note that the vertical standpipe feed tube is sooooo hidden up against the central access that the flanges/ridges are essentially invisible at typical viewing distances with a common-spec Mk1 eyeball,
select a suitable dia of offcut plastic sprue from some long-assembled kit,
and paint/weather to suit...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Saddly the C&O at Quinnimont

Saddly the C&O at Quinnimont located the pipe way out towards the edge.  If you think where the pipe comes out the bottom to. fead the spout that is the location but this pipe goes into the. ground and this is a. very tall tank with legs almost twice as tall as C&O standard.  So the pipe is very very obvious.

I will look into the kit options.  I don't have a 3D printer (yet) But it is an option.

-Doug M