Michael Petersen petersenm

In this post, we give you a glimpse into the process we use to manufacture the MRServo slow motion turnout controller.  While the techniques are vastly simplified from that used by high-volume electronics manufacturers, the same basic steps still apply.

Design

MRServo is based on a design originally developed by Nathan many years back.  A few years ago, when we had this crazy idea to start Iowa Scaled Engineering, this became our first product and the process of converting it to a manufacturable product began.  It took several revisions to optimize the design but eventually resulted in the current design.  For those interested, the full schematics, layout, and firmware files are available on the Documentation tab of each product’s page.

Since the MRServo-1 has no relays, it’s PCB is smaller.  This was done for cost reasons, to minimize the cost of the basic MRServo-1 version.  However, the -2 and -3 versions share the same circuitry as the -1, but add the components necessary to support the relays.  For that reason, the -2 and -3 PCBs are larger.  The only difference between the -2 and -3 is in which components are installed.

Below, we take you through the steps necessary to make an MRServo-3.

Manufacturing

We start with the bare PCB, made by a third party using the Gerber files we provide.  For larger volume products like MRServo, we typically work directly with a PCB manufacturer and purchase a relatively large quantity of boards at one time.  For small runs, a service such as OSH Park can be used, where the fixed costs are shared by many individuals, making the per board cost much more affordable.  Many of our prototypes are done that way.

Each PCB comes panelized into a strip of 6 boards.  This makes the process of applying the solder paste easier and helps manage the boards while placing components.

Since we are primarily using surface mount components, we use solder paste instead of the traditional wire solder and soldering iron.  Solder paste is a flowable form of solder that can be applied to the PCBs prior to components being placed.  It is made up of powdered solder held together by flux.

The process of applying the solder paste is very similar to that used for screen printing.  We start with a laser cut kapton stencil with holes cut where we want the solder to be placed – which is on all the pads intended for surface mount components.  While we would love to have our own laser cutter, the stencils are made for us by OHARARP.

The next step is to apply the solder paste.  A decent line of paste is applied to a putty knife.

It is then drawn across the stencil, leaving a layer of paste.  Then, the excess is scraped off and the PCB carefully removed from beneath the stencil.

Below you can see the islands of solder paste left on the PCB.

Once the solder paste has been applied, it is time to place the components.  For storage of the small surface mount components, we have found petri dishes to be convenient containers.  With the lid on, it is easy to transport the components between the storage shelves and the workbench with (minimal) risk of spillage.  The lids can be clearly labeled.  Additionally, picking the parts out with tweezers is quick and easy.

Each component is carefully placed on the board.  Although alignment is important, at this stage getting it perfect is not necessary as the surface tension of the solder, once it melts, will tend to pull the components into proper alignment (assuming they are close enough to start).

To melt the solder and form permanent joints, the boards must be heated to> 200C.  This is accomplished with the help of an oven.  The temperature profile is closely monitored to make sure not to overheat the boards.  Once the peak temperature has been reached, the oven is turned off and the boards are allowed to cool naturally, creating the final solder joints.

The boards with all surface mount components soldered:

To finish building the MRServo, the through hole components are then soldered using a soldering iron and wire solder.  A finished MRServo-3 is shown below.

Final Steps

Although the MRServo board has been completely assembled, a few additional steps are required to make it a complete product.  First, the individual boards are depanelized by cutting the small tabs between them.  Next, the firmware is loaded into the onboard PIC microcontroller using the 6-pin header holes located in the middle of the board.  We use a PICkit2 programmer with a custom programming cable.

Finally, the MRServo board is tested for correct operation.  If everything checks out, the product is packed with all of the associated pieces – mounting tape, throw wire, servo kit, and instruction sheet – and is then ready to be shipped to a customer.

Do-It-Yourself

While we primarily intend to build and sell MRServo as a complete product, as an open source design, all the design files are available if you want to try building one yourself.  If you do decide to give it a try, please let us know how it goes.

Conclusion

We hope this post has given you an interesting glimpse into the manufacturing process used for our Iowa Scaled Engineering products.  If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate ask.  Enjoy!

support@iascaled.com

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Modeling the BJRY in Le Mars, IA
Co-owner of Iowa Scaled Engineering

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Reply 0
Jim at BSME

Oven temperature

Since I just saw this post referenced in another recent post, I'm asking my question now.

I have always read that the temperature profile (i.e. heat cool cycle) is critical and is not just a simple heat to 200 degrees C and allow to cool, but that seems to be what you are implying. So how do you do the heat cool cycle, are you using an external temperture control or just the built in oven one?

Does the over you have heat from above and below at the same time?

 

- Jim B.
Baltimore Society of Model Engineers, Estd. 1932
O & HO Scale model railroading
Check out BSME on: FacebookInstagram
Reply 0
Michael Petersen petersenm

Temperature

Quote:

I have always read that the temperature profile (i.e. heat cool cycle) is critical and is not just a simple heat to 200 degrees C and allow to cool, but that seems to be what you are implying. So how do you do the heat cool cycle, are you using an external temperture control or just the built in oven one?

You are correct.  The temperature profile is important.  Early on, we checked the profile in the oven we were using.  It ended up being right within spec for the leaded solder we were using at the time, so no additional control was needed:

http://www.iascaled.com/reflow-soldering/

When we switched to lead-free, we did need to make a few small modifications.  First, most lead-free recipes call for a soak for ~1 minute around 200-210C.  Second, the peak temperature is higher.  Fortunately, at least for the solder we are using, the ramp rates are still within spec.  All we do is stop the oven for 1 minute when it reaches 193C and it coasts up to the soak temperature within the recommended range, then continue heating until the peak where another soak time is recommended.

We don't have any form of automatic temperature control, but do use a thermocouple and temperature meter to monitor the temperature throughout the cycle and to determine when to stop the oven at the various points.  We've talked about automating that, but INYAP.

Bottom line, yes, temperature control is important.  We got lucky, but always be sure to check the oven you're using to make sure it is within the recommended profile of the solder paste you use.  You can probably get away with "just heat and hope for the best" for one-off projects, but when it matters, be sure to verify.

Michael

Reply 0
Nick Santo amsnick

@ Michael

Hi Michael,

Thank you for sharing so generously!  I’ll be a lot more ready to try the process with your procedures.  SMDs are a great way to go.  Now I’m psyched to find a project!!!

Thanks again for the insights!

Nick

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.

Reply 0
Jim at BSME

re: Temperature

Thanks for the information and links to your ISE blog posts.

- Jim B.
Baltimore Society of Model Engineers, Estd. 1932
O & HO Scale model railroading
Check out BSME on: FacebookInstagram
Reply 0
Craig Thomasson BNML2

Excellent post!

I always enjoy seeing how other folks tackle the DIY surface mount work. I've seen but not tried the "reflow skillet" technique. I use a toaster oven as well. The first few times I did the reflow manually using a reflow temperature profile I found on the internet, a meter with temperature probe, and a stopwatch. Later on I found a reflow toaster controller as a kickstarter project that I now use. The Petri dishes are a neat way to store components. Since I still do one-off prototypes and have not done any production assembly yet, I have a large number of different components but a small quantity of each, so I keep them in the individual packages and use a clear plastic photo organizer container to group them by similar types. I also made a holder out of scrap styrene that holds the strips containing the components. With SMT, it takes me longer to get out and put away the components than it actually does to place them. Craig

See what's happening on the Office Park Zone at my blog: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/49643

Reply 0
Nick Santo amsnick

@ Craig

Hi Craig,

Your comments made me think that there are a lot smaller Petri dishes.  We used to culture coil forms from water in Petri dishes that were about 2 1/2 “ in diameter.  It is a good way to organize and to write on with an Industrial Black Sharpie.  I know what you’re saying about placement is quicker than handling!

Nick

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.

Reply 0
Paul Jacobsen

way cool!

I'l never do this but appreciate how its done.  have had several of your mr3s for years and love them!

 

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Ranger -- Fort Jacobsen

Scenic Designer FJRR

Track Crew FJRR

my blog

Reply 0
Michael Petersen petersenm

Comments

Paul - Thanks for the kind comments!

Quote:

Later on I found a reflow toaster controller as a kickstarter project that I now use.

Craig - which project was that?  Has it worked well for you?

Michael

Reply 0
emdsd9

How generous of you to share

How generous of you to share your manufacturing technique with the rest of us ! I used to work for a company that used SMT components to manufacture underwater locator beacons. There is a potential problem with allergies and head colds. Sneeze and your parts are scrambled or lost entirely !

John

Reply 0
Logger01

Temperature Controllers

Hopefully not stepping on any response from Craig,  but there have been several reflow controller projects on Kickstarter. One of the most successful was from Nathan Zimmerman of Zallus Design. He has updated the hardware and software design, but it is currently Out of Stock. There are also several Arduino Shields and R Pi Hats for controlling ovens.

I have worked with students who have built reflow ovens with the original Zallus design(s), the Rocket Scream Reflow Oven Controller Arduino Shield and a couple of pure DIY designs. The Zallus designs are more expensive than the Arduino Shields, but I feel provide better support and software. Once assembled and calibrated most designs have performed reasonably well, but still fall short of the performance of even the low end commercial units.

Abundant information is available on the web for building and operating DIY reflow ovens. Just watch out for your fingers, as this stuff is a lot hotter than most of the stuff you bake.

Ken K

gSkidder.GIF 

Reply 0
Craig Thomasson BNML2

Ken beat me to it!

The controller I have is the original one from Zallus Designs. I've been very happy with it so far - easy to setup and use, just push a button and walk away. I just looked on his site and saw that he's working on a next-gen version. The price is $85-$110 but that seems quite reasonable to me. I'll post a pic of my setup when I get back to my desk. The posting toolbar doesn't appear when doing this from a phone. Craig

See what's happening on the Office Park Zone at my blog: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/49643

Reply 0
Craig Thomasson BNML2

Here's my reflow toaster controller setup

The original Zallus controller used a TFT touch screen for selecting the reflow profile and displaying the progress.

0_100037.jpg 

The high voltage box was made from a number of components from the hardware store.  The solid state relay is enclosed in the box and controls one of the outlets.  The other outlet is always live for use as the controller power.  The thermocouple probe sneaks in through the back of the oven enclosure and uses a couple of re-shaped paper clips to hold it in place right above the boards being reflowed. This way I don't need to make any modifications to the toaster itself. For the oven, I selected one that had Infrared elements (top and bottom) based on several discussions I read in other forums.

0_144845.jpg 

The reflow toaster comes in handy for other uses as well. I used it to solder together the Proto:87 frogs as discussed in my post here:  https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/using-reflow-solder-techniques-to-build-a-proto87-stores-frog-12204816

Craig

See what's happening on the Office Park Zone at my blog: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/49643

Reply 0
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