Try this?

If you're open to using a ground throw next to the turnout, I can suggest the metal throws from Bitter Creek Models http://bittercreekmodels.com/page11.html .  These are very durable compared to a plastic throw.

Manual switching works for me

Hello,

I use bullfrog manual switch machines on my turnouts.  A pull rod in the fascia allows you to switch the turnout remotely. I like them.  They were easy to build, but a bit tricky to install.

The easiest solution is probably Peco switches which use springs (i think) to hold the switch points against the rail.  You would actually move the switch by hand in that manner.  Another easy solution is to use caboose industries manual ground throws. They are nice but some people don't like their out of scale size.

In my opinon, DCC controlled switches are too complex and too expensive to be viable for everything but the most complex switching situations or hidden switches located in hidden staging areas.  That said, I've never used them myself, I've only seen them in action on blog pages and YouTube videos so it is probably worth getting a second opinion on those.

Have you decided on Unitrack?

Not sure, hylik, if you've determined you're going to use Unitrack or not, but in that case, the simplest thing is to just use the slide switch on the switch itself.  If you want more remote control, use the Unitrack switch remotes that are so easy to wire up and cost about the same as the ground throws Rob provided.

If you don't plan to use Unitrack, what track do you plan to use?  ME and Peco are both sprung and don't actually need a switch machine - you just click it back and forth with your finger.  If you want switch machines, though, what Rob suggests would be good for ME, Peco or Atlas.

What scale are you planning to use?

Might consider a bit of Kato Unitrack to get started then swap it out later if you don't like it ?

Why not both

While I am in the manual ground throw camp, if you want to use electricity to throw your switches, you can use both dcc and panel/fascia mounted controls.  Some (all?) turnout decoders have the ability to take input from a switch or button as well as from a DCC command.

Still, for complete newbies, it's hard to beat the simplicity, reliability, and intuitiveness of a manual ground throw.

sorry i havent updated much

sorry i havent updated much but i've changed from unitrack...will use atlas 55 sectional and flextrack...it's truly more flexible on what you can accomplish.

i can use both dcc and panel controls at the same time? how? that's sound great idea..I'm a tech guy and will be able to use the more complex functions of dcc but panel controls are good for my visitors.

Stationary decoders

Check out the Digitrax DS64.  I haven't used one, but it looks like it could do what you want.

Also, check out Tony's Trains.  They have a couple pages which might be interesting.

http://www.tonystrains.com/products/type_stadecs_1.htm

http://www.tonystrains.com/productcompare/sta_dec_jungle.htm

DDC & Panel Controls

You said you're a newbie, so I'm not going to assume anything here.

In order for either DCC or panel control, you must have the turnout connected to some sort of electrical switch machine, like a Tortoise. If the switch machine is connected to a DCC stationary decoder, you can use your throttle (or any other DCC input device) to make it throw the points. The stationary decoder has an address just like your locomotives, so you set that address, and tell it which direction you want the points to be.

Tortoise machines (and I suspect most others) also allow you to manually throw the points by using a momentary contact push button switch mounted on the fascia. So if you have the push button and the stationary decoder, you can use either the fascia mounted button, or DCC to move the points.

Honestly, it's been my experience that it's easier to use the push button, than to dial up the decoder for each turnout and throw the points with DCC.

Additional Options

For a beginner I would also recommend using manual switches, but if you decide to go with motorized control of your switches you may also want to check out another MRH sponsor Tam Valley Depot. Their designs drive servo motors instead of DC motors or solenoids, but they are small and very effective.

http://model-trains-universe.com/am3/cgi/index.php?req=am_track&tracker=26&campid=29

I have used the Quad and Octopus servo controllers which with the Fascia Controller accessories makes it easy to add remote manual controls. And for any reverse loops or Y's on your layout I would highly recommend the Frog Juicer series. Installing the Mono Frog Juicers, Dual Frog Juicer/Auto-Reverser/Circuit Breakers has reduced the operational hassles on many layouts.

Doesn't get much simpler...

...than this.

Caboose Industries ground throw

Another Manual Control

Check out Humpyard Purveyance for another quality manual control.

Dante

Bitter Creek Throws

I installed four of these tonight in my yard ladder where pilot plows didn't clear even the smallest N scale Caboose throws.

Again, here's the link http://bittercreekmodels.com/page11.html.  I've had some of these sitting around and decided to finally put them in after posting about them above.  I've used them on other layouts where they've been in service for many years.

See this thread also!

These are what I use on my layout.  All turnout are within easy reach (less than 2 feet).  This was an article in MR a long time ago and it keeps resurfacing because it's simple and works well.  Best of all it's very inexpensive!  

These are photo's of one installed on one of my crossovers and the second photo shows how it looks un-installed.  I make them out of paper clips.  They don't show up to bad when painted a dark color.  Spring wire is widely used as you can get a lot thinner wire. I have used this method for 20+ years now!

MRH thread on these: https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/z-spring-for-manual-turnout-control-12186695

For the life of me....

I never could get those little home made springs to work! Not when I was in N scale, haven't tried them in HO because I'm using PECO turnouts now. Obviously they do work, people use them but my luck was bad. Another thing I used to do is put a pad of cork under the outside portion  of the throwbar and then wedge a little piece of thin clear plastic, cut from any old product package, between the throwbar and the cork pad. You can use your finger or an uncoupling pick to move the points back and forth and the resistance of the plastic holds them snug. This could be used as a temporary method till you decided if you wanted something more elaborate.

Michael

Turnout Control

I think you want to keep the control of turnouts as simple as possible.  I model in N-scale and am using Peco Electrofrog Turnouts which have spring-loaded points.  All the turnouts on my layout that are within easy reach are operated by moving the points with my finger by pushing on the throw bar of the turnout.  Those turnouts that are out of easy reach are powered by Peco twin-coil switch machines that attach to the underside of the turnout.  My layout has a layer of 2" foam board on its top, so to accommodate the switch machine, I cut a rectangular hole in the foam board under the turnout large enough for the switch machine.  I cover the hole under the turnout by placing a thin piece (0.10") of black styrene plastic between the underside of the turnout and the top of the switch machine when attaching the switch machine.  The portion of the hole that shows on either side of the turnout can be covered with the same sheet styrene.

The spring-loading of the points assures good electrical contact between the points and the rails when you are using the points for power routing.

Bob

turnout control for newbie?

     Wish they made something like these lionel fast track switches for HO scale.Self contained switch stand and power routing. For my new N scale layout I'm using Blue point controlers screwed to the bottom of the plywood. They seem to work well so far....dave