johnybgood18

Good day fellow model railroaders,

I am using bullfrog switch machine and the frog has been wired to the switch.  Basically, what I'd like to know is if it would be very difficult to wire a dual color (green, red) LED to show the direction of a switch? Is the included switch enough or should I get a different one?

Thanks in advance,
Christian

You can visit my layout Facebook page: Freelanced Perkins subdivision

Reply 0
JRG1951

Question?

Christian,

Are you using A DCC control system? If so then a resistor and a LED could be wired to the frog and to both rails. This would need to be a 3 wire type LED. The common lead of the LED would be wired through the resistor to the frog and the other leads would be tied to each rail.. I believe a 1000 OHM 1/2 Watt resistor would work.with most Systems.The drawback to this system is that the LED will use track current.

If you are using a DC system then the LED would light only when the Locomotive voltage was high enough. You would want a better system for DC.

Regards,

John

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Another mode of accumulating power arises from lifting a weight and then allowing it to fall. Charles Babbage

 

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Reply 0
Kevin Rowbotham

What John said, and...

Quote:

Christian,

Are you using A DCC control system? If so then a resistor and a LED could be wired to the frog and to both rails. This would need to be a 3 wire type LED. The common lead of the LED would be wired through the resistor to the frog and the other leads would be tied to each rail.. I believe a 1000 OHM 1/2 resistor would work.work with most Systems.The drawback to this system is that the LED will use track current.

If you are using a DC system then the LED would light only when the Locomotive voltage was high enough. You would want a better system for DC.

Regards,

John

The bi-color LED could have slightly different forward voltage/current specs for the two colors.  The 1K Ohm resistor may be fine for both, but if you want them to be equally illuminated you may need to use two resistors and tweak each one to suit.

The center pin on the three lead bi-color LED is typically the common.

If you are using DC, I would get the second switch and use a separate power supply for signals, maybe a 9-12 volt wall wart, etc.  As John mentioned, using DCC you could just use the frog power for the signals with a current limiting resistor in place.  For myself, I would probably use the separate switch and power supply.

~Kevin

Appreciating Modeling In All Scales but majoring in HO!

Not everybody likes me, luckily not everybody matters.

Reply 0
johnybgood18

So sorry I forgot to mention this...

I am using DCC...  NCE PowerCab.  So, basically, I can just tap the current from the feeder wires connected to the micro switch in the switch machine to power the LED?  It's really that simple?

Thanks again,

Chris

You can visit my layout Facebook page: Freelanced Perkins subdivision

Reply 0
Kevin Rowbotham

Current Limiting Resistor

Quote:

I am using DCC...  NCE PowerCab.  So, basically, I can just tap the current from the feeder wires connected to the micro switch in the switch machine to power the LED?  It's really that simple?

Thanks again,

Chris

Just remember you must have a current limiting resistor in between the track power and the LED or your LED will be ruined when you apply full track power to it.

 

~Kevin

Appreciating Modeling In All Scales but majoring in HO!

Not everybody likes me, luckily not everybody matters.

Reply 0
peter-f

try Stapleton? ... or current limiting diode?

just tried a CLD - the LED will light at minimal required voltage (my white one lit at 4v), but the max voltage is 50. I ran an LED at 16 volts all night! (google: CMJH150 - Central Semiconductor) I don't know who sells in small quantities... mine were engineering samples... but I wanted to point out what else is available. (look for axial packaging... as surface-mounted devices, they measure 1.5mm x 3.5mm) Also, for solenoid-type switch machines, look up Ken Stapleton's circuits- "[for those] who want to switch turnout point position with a momentary pulse and also have the ability to enable constant state display of that turnout's position." www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/751D.HTM no- I don't get any reward from either reference! -regards, Peter
- regards

Peter

Reply 0
Kevin Rowbotham

Current Limiting Device

Yes, the CLD will also work. I just got some in from Mouser this week.

Input voltage between 5 - 90V, current limited at 20mA, through hole mounting in a TO-92 package, $0.47 cents each.

 

 

~Kevin

Appreciating Modeling In All Scales but majoring in HO!

Not everybody likes me, luckily not everybody matters.

Reply 0
JRG1951

CLD Cost

Kevin,

You may wish to check the cost for CLDs. The link shows $.47 vs your post of $.047. Thanks for the link and the information.

Regards

John

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The U. S. Constitution doesn't guarantee happiness, only the pursuit of it. You have to catch up with
it yourself. Benjamin Franklin

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Reply 0
Kevin Rowbotham

Typo!

Quote:

Kevin,

You may wish to check the cost for CLDs. The link shows $.47 vs your post of $.047. Thanks for the link and the information.

Regards

John

Arrgg!  Typo corrected.  Thanks for pointing that out to me, and you are welcome.

Best regards,

~Kevin

Appreciating Modeling In All Scales but majoring in HO!

Not everybody likes me, luckily not everybody matters.

Reply 0
Kevin Rowbotham

Stapleton Solution

Quote:

Also, for solenoid-type switch machines, look up Ken Stapleton's circuits- "[for those] who want to switch turnout point position with a momentary pulse and also have the ability to enable constant state display of that turnout's position.

- regards

Peter

 

Yes, Ken Stapleton has a nice circuit available for controlling twin or single coil solenoid activated turnouts, that uses toggle switches with CD discharge and route indication built into each control.  In kit form (u-build-it) they are IMO,  quite affordably priced.

~Kevin

Appreciating Modeling In All Scales but majoring in HO!

Not everybody likes me, luckily not everybody matters.

Reply 0
UPWilly

@johnnybgood18

Much of the discussion(s) here seem to imply the use of a tri-lead LED device - many bi-color LEDs are made with just two leads. Which bi-color are you using?

 

Bill D.

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N Scale (1:160), not N Gauge. DC (analog), Stapleton PWM Throttle.

Proto-freelance Southwest U.S. 2nd half 20th Century.

Keep on trackin'

Reply 0
Kevin Rowbotham

2 or 3 lead

Wiring Signals

Quote:

Much of the discussion(s) here seem to imply the use of a tri-lead LED device - many bi-color LEDs are made with just two leads. Which bi-color are you using?

Bill D.

A great thing about this site, I learn stuff all the time.  I thought bi-color LED's were mainly 3 lead if you wanted two distinct colors.  I have been enlightened!

Either way, follow the link above and scroll just over half-way down the page to see some wiring diagrams for 2 and 3 lead bi-color LED's.

~Kevin

Appreciating Modeling In All Scales but majoring in HO!

Not everybody likes me, luckily not everybody matters.

Reply 0
johnybgood18

Thanks all...

...for the great information and help you all have provided me with.  Life has been a little crazy the past 6 months but with the move completed, and my daughter born, now I can go back to working on my layout room and the layout itself!

Chris

You can visit my layout Facebook page: Freelanced Perkins subdivision

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