Welcome, Conor!

SIGNALING

hello Conor

i agree with Bruce, you need to figure out what you want to show with your lights..ex. block detection or diverging turnouts. i have used atlas signals for block detection & dwarf lights for turnout position. i have embedded a 6 min video on tortoise installation & at about the 5:15 min. mark you will see the the dwarf light in operation.

the atlas detection system works on current draw..in other words as soon as the loco enters the block it will turn the light red & stay red as long as the loco & lighted car is in the block. the dwarf lights work off the secondary contact in the tortoise machines.

i guess i should mention that my layout is "N" scale & i am using MRC prodigy advanced squared system...all my locos are equipped digitrax decoders.

if you have question..please ask

vinny

If you're on a budget

I run three trains with 6 loco's (two with sound) just fine with a Digitrax Zephyr.  It doesn't sound like you will come close to needing a 5 Amp system.  You can use the extra money for an additional UT4 throttle.  It will come in handy.

Good luck!

John C

Thank you Bruce! My

Thank you Bruce!

My intention with the signals is to simply add some scenery with action, particularly at turnouts.  However I do not care if the signals operate in coordination with my trains.  The signals will be placed, for now, just to light up and and add some extra realism to my layout.

The option you put forward is very appealling and seems very cost effective/simple.  However, I will not have any electrofrog turnouts.  I will be using Peco Code 100 Insulfrog turnouts. 

I have been looking into another option:

My DCC system will be powered by Digitrax.  I am looking at using the Digitrax SE8C Signal Decoder to run my signals.  According to Digitrax, if I hook my LED signals to signal mount kit and connect that to the SE8C Signal Decoder (via Signal Driver cables), and then connect my SE8C Signal Decoder to my Command Station (via LocoNet cable) I can control my signals manually through my DT402 Super throttle.

Signal ----> TSMK Signal Mount ----(via Signal Driver Cables)----> SE8C Signal Decoder ----(via LocoNet Cable)----> Command Station/Booster ----(via LocoNet Cables)----> DT402 Throttle (control signals from here)

Will that system work? Can signals be controlled from my Digitrax DT402Throttle? 

Thanks again,

Conor

Simple signal system

Connor:

The previous post was correct in talking about Atlas signals. I was co-author of the MRN review several years ago and we put the Atlas signals to the test. They are almost fool proof.  It is a simple system that is essentially plug and play, You can't use their block detector in DCC with any reliability. Use something like a NEC DB-20 detector. Also see these comments on the old Atlas RR forum -- forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=49895

Hope this helps,

Dick Foster

Thank you John! That is

Thank you John!

That is very good to know! Thank you for the advice! 

Will the Zephyr run three trains on on 150 ft of track? I guess that was my primary concern when considering the amperage of the command station/throttle.

Thanks,

Conor

Zephyr can do it

It's more about the number of locos than the length of the track.  Realistically, on a one or two person layout, there will rarely be more than 3 loco's actually running at one time.  The Zephyr would be more than adequate.  

Perhaps Bruce can add a comment on this to put your mind at ease?

John C

Ok thats all I needed to

Ok thats all I needed to know.  I will likely not run any more than 1-2 trains at a time.  

Thankyou!

Installing Signals without detectors.

I guess what my most important question is:

Can I install and control signals on a DCC layout, at any prominent place of my choice on the layout, without detectors or electrofrog turnouts?

Is there a way for my to manually control the signals without having to use detectors?

All I want is to be able to install maybe a dozen signals along the layout (no dwarf signals).  I want to be able to manually control these signals and not have to worry about the cost or complexity of automating my switches or installing my detectors.

Thanks everyone for the help!

Conor

Manually controlling the signal would not be hard

 A SPDT switch will do that. But for not much more complexity you can have very  simple automation. I know you say you don't want that but look at things like LogicRail technologies "single animator" before you rule it out completely.

Michael

The reason its almost more

The reason its almost more simple to automate the signals is because signals all work together. You're not going to just come around the corner and see a red signal - trains wouldn't be able to stop - you'd pass a yellow first.

How many signals do you want?

How far apart will they be?

Signaling is a whole sector of the hobby on it's own and there is plenty to read up on.

First if possible FIND A CLUB IN YOUR AREA AND JOIN

wiring for singal

Connor. How ever you would wires your SWITCHES and your  LED, keep them color code. that way it easier to trace out problem. 

Bobby

Conor, you said you were

Conor, you said you were going to use an Super Empire Builder? Unless things have changed, that's the ONLY current Digitrax unit that cannot read back decoder programming. Given the small size of your projected layout, I would encourage you to look into the Zephyr system. You'll still have plenty of power for the number of trains you want to run (it can handle up to 10 at a time), and all the Digitrax accessories are compatible with it. You can use any of the throttles as well. And the Zephyr CAN read back from decoders.

You can take some of the money you save buying a Zephyr and get yourself a Locobuffer or Digitrax PR3 so that you can interface your computer to your system, too, and the (free and open source) JMRI software will make your life much easier programming decoders - and automating signaling as well. A link to the JMRI project is in my signature below.

With any of the Digitrax

With any of the Digitrax systems, you will want to put the system roughly in the middle and run two 75 feet runs.  

Given the number of trains you plan to run, the Zephyr Xtra will do the trick.

You can add booster/ power from Tam Valley Depot should you need more amps; it will set you back roughly $60 with the power source included, so if power does become a problem, just divide your layout in two with the command station serving one side and the booster/power serving the other.  You don't need to add the extra power until you discover you are having a problem, which I doubt you will.

http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/products/dccbooster.html