IMHO, the Free-Mo design

Go for it!

Given what the Captiol FreemMo guys have accomplished I'd definitely consider it if I were you.  Besides, Buck and Loretta will tire of being boxed up sooner then later!

I've come to determine

that, after watching M.C. build his FreeMoN modules and Les Halmos building his FreeMo modules, among others, that I will go this direction when the chainsaw comes out on my current project.  The ease of moving it, setting it up in a bigger layout with others (potentially), and even the possibility to set up a larger layout in my own living space temporarily is very appealing.  I can have a base four or six modules, then have several more stored to add on for special occasions (ops sessions, grandkids (someday) or other such times when a bigger layout will add to it without the boss having to worry about trains all over the house).

Freemo @ home

One consideration is that the interface at module ends on a Freemo module have at most two tracks crossing them and at a specific place and orientation at the interface.  The other concern is radius, which is fairly broad for Freemo. 

Not saying not to build a home layout with a Freemo module or modules, just that from what I have seen you will end up with a less dense trackplan using Freemo modules than you would with typical layout design.  If you take a typical model track plan for an around the room layout and convert it to Freemo modules, to get the same trackplan in, it will most likely have a larger footprint.

I have often thought of building Freemo -like modules for stations, then connecting them with narrow (8-12" wide) sections with just single track to lengthen the runs with a more easily transported infrastruture.  That would make a layout that is very well suited to TT&TO or track warrant operation.

If you've got an active club,

Power of the People

Personally, I love Free-moN.
Allows you to work on (and finish!) detailed sections and then run much longer trains when all joined up than on the home layout (which, for me, is / was 2'x4').

The main reason I got into Free-moN, though, is because I knew the dudes in the club before I started, and they are great guys who I enjoy spending time with.

I strongly suggest hanging out with the Free-mo club in your area for a bit before deciding to "join".

That said, there's no reason why your "home" layout can't be made up of Free-mo modules, either entirely or in part.
Then, even if you don't "click" with the club already established, you can still either participate with them on a limited basis or, as Bruce said, start your own group.

Our group started with just two guys, and is now up to about 8 or 9, so all it takes is one or two dudes with the energy and excitement to build a few modules, and they will come

Modular - definitely

  I was also looking at doing my layout as a bunch of FreeMo modules, but the requirement to have the track in the center of the endplate at each join did not work for the space I had available.  I did end up with a modular plan (just not FreeMo compliant), but there is also the possibility of building adapter pieces to allow connection with FreeMo if I wanted to.  My layout is based off the "Beer Line" in Model Railroader.  The 4 sections can fit together in a variety of configurations - but they violate the minimum radius on the curves and the track will come closer to the edge of the module than the standard.  I am making all the turnouts the required size, so at least the two six foot long sections "could" be used in a setup.

Toni

Thanks, all!

Free Mo

Hey Rick,

If you are in or near Ocala Fl, then you should check out Ocala Model Railroaders. I use to belong to that club and I know one of the guys in that club wants to get Free Mo going. He has a big diamond module and if they can get enough people to join, that thing has enormous potential. Go and see Carmen Sabasiano (not sure how you spell his last name) and he can get you taken care of. They meet on tuesday nights.

Tom

do it now

Several years ago I participated in a free-mo HO club and enjoyed it immensely.  I urge you to do it now.

I suggest keeping the module separate and distinct from a permanent home layout.  The module has different demands and will  become more and difficult to separate from the home layout to take part in club gatherings.  The restrictions of the module will complicate the planning for the home layout.

You can start with a minimum module (4x2?) and not take much time or resources away from your home layout planning. It will be easy to build, store, and transport. 

Art

....

Al contraire...take a nice hard look at that sweet home series done by jon grant.  Module does not have to mean it's not at the same level as a home layout!!

Thank you all - maybe Free-MO and sectional

Free-mo and sectional

Hey Rick,

I've gone over similar territory since moving into a new place back in July. The new layout is sectional and three portions that make up the staging yard will follow Free-mo standards. Two other sections will be built using the same methods as the Free-mo compatible sections, but the track will not follow Free-mo. These sections may be reused down the line as things will change again. I've documented quite a bit of the design process and build on my blog over the last few months. You may want to take a look and see what this is building towards in a 10x16 foot spare bedroom.

http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/

Eric

How to's

Do you have a "how to" on building a Mod? We have a group that is starting o club, and I live too for to make meeting but I am going to build several.  i do not know anyone in my area. I am in the Army and travel allot so meeting people is hard at first. I have an alternate Email of stephen.r.hackman.mil@mail.mil for any suggestions. I have watch your video on butt joints

moving your layout

After building several, and not being able to finish them because of "life" events - my last 1 I have built in sections- but based on my needs, not a published set of standards.  this is what I have done for these past years (as I am going to get this thing as much completed as  time allows

My standards have been (in theory) : any section cannot be wider than 24" (for doorways), 8' is length, wiring must be able to come apart easy, no track over lapping any section more than 4", minimum overlap 1".

What I watch for primarily is that my scenery has to be able to come apart with minimal repair - either at a break or   to be removed, and same for wiring. my present railroad is an "M" configuration with  15' length "legs" and 15' across "the Top" and 4' wide (so its not a small layout- even tho I think it is) - all in sections no more than 24" wide my benchwork is set up as a grid/ open benchwork. legs are bolted on but are also cut to 1/2 length - each leg is 40" long- but then cut at 20" with a nail driven in 1 piece, hole sized and drilled a little larger for the other (if you pick up my layout, the 1/2 legs would drop off). "Alignment pins" (dry wall screws) are driven into one side of the benchwork connecting to the adjacent - the adjacent hole is drilled a little larger than the drywall screw so it slides on & off- the head of the drywall screw is cut off after drilling into the "receiving" benchwork -- and then they are all bolted with 1/2" nuts & bolts.  For may scenery- when you do scenick-- lychen solves a lot of your seam problems, for a seam in a mountain- a nice tree also does well for the seam at the base- or a plateau, if you can't help having the seam - say in the middle of "grass" - well some paper glued down and then scenecked- and when it does have to be separated- a nice exacto knife so should work -- but that repair is  minimal.

for wiring - there's all kinds of connectors made -- try digikey or mouser- just split the wires on those long runs.

It's been 4 years and so far I havent had to move. Hopefully when (or If) it comes - my theories should work.

After reading about the V & O, and other spectacular railroads winding up being disassembled - I am hoping I could avoid it -maybe it could be a family heirloom or find a nice home in a nursing home or library- hopefully not diassembled

Hope this helps