Let there Be Light!

I’ve spent a good portion of my evenings & weekends the past couple of weeks finalizing the installation of lighting on my layout as well as sorting out some really frustrating wiring issues (but more on the latter in another post). I recently upgraded the lighting in my basement as even though I have two outside exposed walls my basement is….well, a basement! The previous owner had some overhead lights installed that provided decent light for a playroom or workout area but better lighting was needed if I was going to use this space for my layout.
I had rigged up some old track lighting that was sitting around unused during the initial construction of my benchwork and thought about potentially using this once my layout was completed. I knew the color temperature of the bulbs was off (everything on the layout looked like it had been yellowed from sitting out in the sun for long time) but that was easily replaceable. My main problem was with the cords. The lights I had on hand were all designed to be plugged into a regular outlet, and given my (limited) skills as an electrician I wasn’t comfortable cutting and rigging wiring to put these lights onto a single source of power so I nailed extension cords along the joists and down the wall to the outlets. As such, I have power cords all over the place (you can see in the images below) and it looked just plain sloppy. I’m leaving the lighting up during construction and initial testing of my layout design and wiring, but once I’m ready to start putting down scenery they will be coming down.
Here is a good picture of the original lighting I rigged up when I first started building the layout. You can see the cords I've secured against the ceiling with nails, but it's still a MESS!
The bright lights along the top of the image are part of the new track lighting I've installed (more later).
I knew some additional lighting was needed but was very leery about installing fluorescent lighting. Let me say right up front I am NOT a fan of fluorescent lighting. I find I get headaches if I’m around them for too long and feel like it has a flickering effect when you're under it. Plus, I work all day under fluorescent light in my office and well…who wants to be reminded of work when they are doing the thing that is supposed to be the farthest thing from it!?!
I finally settled on halogen track lighting, and have to say I’ve been pretty happy with the results. The idea to use them came from a set installed in our kitchen which creates a strong, concentrated white light that’s great for prepping dinner. The more I looked at it the better it looked for using on the layout. I went to “Le Grande l’Orange” home improvement store and looked at my options. I was able to pick up 12 feet of track (allowing me to splice off an existing junction box that I removed a light fixture from) as well as a 10 lights for roughly $130.00. My biggest concern in choosing halogen was with cost, and pricing out a similar installation with fluorescent lighting it was not that much more expensive in raw dollars given the size of my layout (the fluorescent would have cost a little less than $100 so this was 30% more, but as I said we’re dealing with small enough amounts that I was willing to take on the added cost).
I’ve been pretty happy with my results so far. The installation was quick (I installed the lighting pictured above in a couple hours one evening) and the light is very “clean” and doesn’t seem to alter the color of things in an odd way (understand, this is a completely subjective observation on my part) and does create a lot of light in a small package, which is nice in a basement with ceilings that are around 7’ high. The larger light fixtures with traditional incandescent lighting is barely above my head and makes the space feel very closed in. These are only a few inches from the ceiling so the room feels a lot more open.
You can see the basic layout of the installation in this view (the image is taken from under the original overhead light that I took out to tie in the track lighting). The track crosses over the layout in the middle of the floatbridge yard (you can see a trackplan in my first post here) and then makes a 90 degree turn to follow the contours of the layout. I've angled the lights so that they are generally illuminating a section of the layout as far from the location of the light as possible, limiting the amount of bright spots on the layout.
I only have two complaints so far. The lights produce a very bright, but very concentrated light. As a result, the light diffuses (disperses? It’s been a long time since Physics 101!) pretty quickly so you need a fairly large number of lights to cover a given area. You can see in my pictures that I needed a pretty significant number of lights around the layout to avoid and dark patches, so on a larger layout in a different configuration the cost could definitely add up.
The other issue I have is with the lighting itself. You can only buy the track for it in 4 foot sections (according the “helpful” person at everyone’s favorite hardware store they’ve discontinued the 2 foot sections) so fitting the lighting around a layout more precisely than I did (as this is a “learning layout” I’m not going to finish it with a valance or anything like that) isn’t possible unless you make some cuts to the track with a hack saw. I’m sure someone more handy than I am could do it, but it wasn’t something I was going to try. If I were really particular about lighting this layout, I know I’d need to get more involved in layout out the lights properly.
Now I understand why those who have experience in the hobby build a valence! You can just make out my shadow in this image (it's hard to make out, but I'm blocking light over the Maine Central and half of the ICG boxcar in the middle of hte picture, the BAR car at the end of the yard siding is directly exposed to the light) which might be off putting to some.
All in all, I’m happy with my results and wanted to share my experiences with others out there who might be looking at lighting alternatives for a small to mid sized layout. There is definitely a higher cost factor involved, but as it’s more or less ready to go out of the box (all you need is a spot to tap off your household wiring) and has a finished look that keeps the room looking good if you have a mixed use space.
As a general update, I’ve almost completed my wiring (I’ll share my experiences in my next post) and I can push cars around my layout. This thing really works! I can’t stress enough if you take 90 min or so a night to work on your layout 3 nights a week, you really make progress! I can actually see myself finishing this one day!
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Comments
So about that Track lighting...
Am I really digging up a 2+ year old post?!?! I am!
I made some changes to my lighting the past few days. Over the past two years my lighting has changed from the crisp bright white light that I had originally to a yellowed light similar to what you see out of an incandescent. It looks to me that the lenses have yellowed somewhat (from the heat of the halogens perhaps?) and it's thrown off the light. Here is a side by side with a picture from above with one I took the other night before I took them down:
I've been suspicious that my lights had shifted in color and I feel like the picture about pretty much confirms things. These two pictures were taken in the same location and the shift in my lighting is evident I think.
So with that I asked around for some advice (a big thanks to Charlie Comstock for offering some great advice and assistance!) and decided it was time to take the plunge and get myself some proper layout lighting. After looking at a few options I decided I'd see how the inexpensive option from the Home Cheapo would work. I picked up 6 strip lights (5 for the layout and 1 for the workbench) and 12 6500K T8 bulbs.
I guess in terms of quality I got what I paid for. The sheet metal that these are fabricated out of is sharp and will cut your fingers (my pinkie will testify to that fact) and the diffuser that comes with them is difficult to fit properly without cracking it. On top of that I had to go through about 12 at the store to find 6 that didn't have broken diffusers out of the box. They also don't supply any hardware. 2 drywall anchors per unit are needed for installation. Unless you have a stud regular screws in the dry wall are definitely not enough to hold them in place. Even though they are quite light there is a good chance they will come crashing down on your head if you aren't careful. Don't ask how I know.
On the positive side they do have an electronic ballast that starts up immediately, install quite simply (they are made to install underneath a junction box but I rigged up some cable between them that works just fine) have no hum to them whatsoever, and did I mention they were only $20 a piece? All in the whole thing cost me a little under $180 and for the improvement in lighting it was worth it. Here are a few shots of the lights installed.
Here you can see the spacing of the lights which I tried to keep under a foot. It kept the lighting very even at the layout surface. It's interesting to me that I can't perceive the shadow in the back corner with my eye that the camera picked up in this image. You can also see I need to tidy up my wires now that the installation is working!
Looking back and to the right of where I was in the last picture it's the same story with the shadow in the corner. I can't see it myeslf but the camera is all over it.
Finally, here are afew side by side before and after shots to show the difference. First, here's the front of my engine house which I showed in my recent build post but a shot of the facade in it's final position that I didn't use as it was too dark. The structure and camera are in roughly the same position with the new lighting.
And here's my carfloat yard (albeit the "before" shot is with my old yard arrangement):
While the last shot is not as stark as the first I'm really happy overall with how even the light is. It looks and "feels" more like the layout is "in the world" as opposed to down in my mouse filled baement. This project does not rank up there as one of the great "fun" ones but the results can't be argued with.
Thanks for reading!
~rb
~Rich
The Greenpoint Dock and Transfer Company Comes to Connecticut
I think you'll like the
I think you'll like the fluorescents a lot better than the track lighting. More light. Fewer watts and heat. Not much in the way of multiple shadows.
One thing I would have done differently would be to put the tubes over the aisles. With them over the layout, vertical surfaces on the benchwork near the ailes will tend to be darker (since only the lights over the other leg of the layout) will shine on them.
Don't how noticible this is for you though.
I'm curious about your before and after shots though. Were they taken with the camera's white balance set the same (and with the same camera)?
Best regards,
Charlie
Editor, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine
The biggest thing to remember
The biggest thing to remember about light, particularly sun light, is that it is the most destructive issue you might run into with a model railroad! Indirect sunlight is better than direct, but even then, it depends on the routing [I.E. if the light hits a couple walls first].
Otherwise, you might look into your lighting at your local art museum, as they are constantly battling this issue. The wrong light, and the artwork fades - and the fade is permanent. What's even worse is if there's a card on the piece, because the card leaves an unfaded imprint!
But we also want to work in these places...so it's all up to balance. I foundthis article, for those who are planing very long term exhibitions, and desire long term preservation [longer term than most of use have to consider, no doubt!]
http://www.drloriv.com/advice/light.htm
Charlie-Thanks for the
Charlie-
Thanks for the advice. I actually went one step further on checking out the lights. I took one that I thought was particularly yellowed and brought it to the "Grande L'Orange" with me and plugged it into their demo track in the lighting department. It was much more yellow.
That issue alone trumped any white balance settings, etc. (I am no photographer, I admit) but they were all taken on the same point and shoot with the white balance set on "incandescent" which I'm assuming will provide the same settings every time it's selected.
The shadow effects along the aisles are pretty minimal as my layout is a wrap around design. Lighting from the opposite peninsula takes care of any shadows along the fascia. If I put them in the aisles I would basically have the lights right on top of each other. To give you an idea of what I did here's a quick mockup of what they look like. The lighting positions are only approximations but it should give you a good feel for how the space is oriented and the placement of the lights relative to one another. It's also worth noting in the upper right corner about 8-10" of my workbench light sticks out over the fascia giving me some extra light.
~Rich
The Greenpoint Dock and Transfer Company Comes to Connecticut