Looks really neat

Looks really cool! Will it work with all scales or just the larger scales?

Have you checked out the PRoto:87 Stores offerings?

Not in your local hardware store of course, but I do ship a lot to Australia already. Using the more modern plastic tube makes it very inexpensive. And the tube route can zig-zag all over the place to fit in, as well as pass through the gaps in the ties and under the rails.

Being thrifity

I think bvgorman is saving money so he can spend it on something else, plus the pleasure of saying he made it himself.

Bernd

Just making sure it was known of

Being thrifty with parts from a hardware store is one thing. Spending on tooling up to make equivalent parts that are already available can be very costly.

I once bought some quite expensive rolling road parts from an OZ manufacturer that were advertised as unique, only to find that Bachmann had just made the same items for half the price, and theirs were far closer to the correct dimensions.

manual point control

Hi Cliff

          Thanks for your comment......I think it`s neat ......but I am biased ????.........to answer your question.........it should work with all scales........I have only focused on " OO " because I like British Steam........however....I have put this thing together so that it can be mounted to a baseboard quite simply and also it can be connected to cable, rod or nylon ( as per model aircraft control lines ). 

         On my test bench at home......I use a wire in cable method with bell cranks .......and it will throw a Peco point (oo/ho scale) with the point`s own latching springs still in place.......with out effort.

         Cheers Gormo

manual point control

Hi Bernd

             You got it in one............I derive great pleasure from DIY in model railways...........and I have always admired those great guys of yesteryear, who could not just go out to the store and buy everything ready to run..............so they built what they needed........an in turn inspired the next generation of railway modellers

             Cheers Gormo

manual point control

Hi Andy

           Thanks for showing me the point lever system above.........I am sure it must be very good.........but as I have explained above.......I like the DIY road and I am now committed to that.

           I don`t have any tooling up issues........I have sourced a local industry to take care of that at reasonable price ........so we`ll throw the line in the water and see what happens. 

          Cheers Gormo

Hey Andy

I didn't see your ad on the sponsors page. Do you get to advertise  your products for free on the forum message board? Wonder how the paying advertisers feel about that.

Bernd

Bernd, you raise a good question!

Even though Andy didn't start the thread with the intention of advertising his wares he is a model railroad vendor.  It will be interesting to see what Joe has to say about this.

Rick

Not wanting

to hi-jack this thread I suggest that it be discussed in another thread. It would not be helping the OP to take this thread to a "bitching" session. I just find it inappropriate that one member who has a store to be able to advertise their wares where others need to pay for what they offer. Perhaps Andy would consider being a sponsor and place an add.

Bernd

Advertising

Just to keep the record straight. The Stores is a paid up MRH advertiser on a full yearly basis.

I can't speak for any other links mentioned.

Manual Levers

The BQR uses manual levers to operate turnouts in the Deseronto Yard. The issue that I have encountered is that there needs to be an adjustment point at one end or the other. Problem with the original implementation was that both ends are fixed -- so it is either of correct length and travel or not. Comparing this mechanism with the linkage in a Tortoise remote is instructive. The Remote mount frame uses a sliding clamp to pull/push the wire and a fixed clamp to secure the tube. There is also an adjustable pivot point so the length of travel can be changed. Different turnouts in my layout need differing actuator travels to operate -- so proper adjustment of the lever is trickier than I expected. Adjustment by bending a wire loop in and out may work for some but as a matter of personal preference there is much to be said for a screw...

These issues may not be relevant for the way you plan on deploying the manual levers. But they are issues that I have encountered that you might want to be aware of.

Manual Point Control

       Gentlemen............This is my hobby............my refuge ..........my sanity........I have shared a wealth of info with my British pals on a British Model rail forum and they have contributed to the topic as well with some great ideas.

       I thought I would do the same here......but  this first topic on this forum is leaving a bad taste in my mouth......I don`t wish to upset any one.........so I suggest we finish it right here and now...........Cheers Gormo

So no-one need miss any info

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/54069-manual-point-control/

This is the link to the UK discussions. 6 pages March until now.

Manual T/O Control

Gormo,

Thanks for the post!  Great to see yet another clever solution for this expensive dilemma.

I don't have a working model yet but I'm using an oak dowel which runs through some thin pieces of wood coupled with magnets to throw my turnouts.  I'll be working on the concept a bit more this weekend but, in theory, the magnets will keep the dowel locked in position, placing tension on the spring wire and holding the points tightly in place.  The only issue I see with my design is the space it'll eat up but the price (~$3) is right

Attempt #1:

I've had this project on shelf for some time now and figured I'd build a working model over the weekend since my magnet order came in.  The photos show the turnout positioning mechanism which locks the turnout control rod securely in place using magnets in contact with standard nuts.  Using some 1"x2" scrap, I was able to construct the "U" shaped bracket.  The upper, longer dowel is the control rod and runs through the fascia off the right of the photo.  On the other end, I drilled a small hole which accepted the threads on a model airplane wire coupler.  I inserted a length of 0.39" music wire and soldered it in place.  The wire extends through the subroadbed and into the throwbar.

The positioning lever slides back and forth via the control rod and travels along a guide rod. I drilled a hole in a piece of scrap 3/8" plywood to snugly accept the control rod and added a little wood glue.  I drilled a second hole below this which allowed the guide dowel to slide freely through. I then attached one nut with a #6 screw (I later added a second one to shorten the throwing distance) on either side of the scrap wood, above the control rod.  

I then built the "U" bracket around this mechanism drilling two matching holes in each leg.  The lower hole accepted the guide dowel snugly and the upper holes were drilled wider to allow the control rod to freely slide through them. A countersunk magnet was attached to the inside of each leg so that it would line up with it's corresponding nut on the positioning lever.

Here is the entire assembly.

This is the inside of the mechanism with the magnet visible.

It's definitely not perfect but the build time was short and the mechanism is 100% reliable.  This particular controller is being built for a double crossover and is proving difficult to fine tune.  In order for the double crossover to work correctly, I will have to install a pivoting mechanism below each throwbar which will allow for more precise control.  I did test this on a standard turnout and it worked perfectly but I failed to take any pictures of this in action

One extra suggestion

Although the magnets look metallic, because of the nickel plating, they are advertised as being a quite brittle ceramic, like glass, and supposedly can shatter if impacted. I would suggest putting some thin rubber or soft tape over the nut striking surfaces, to cushion the snap together motion.

Read my mind

I did manage to shatter a magnet when I was testing the pulling force (these babies jumped a good 4" off the table!) but had good luck during testing.  The next rendition (aside from being much neater than this build) will include either a coating of silicon or some foam tape over the nut to ensure they will stay in one piece for years to come. 

Bad taste

I know how you feel bvgorman. I have a friend who, when I show him something I'm proud of on my layout or in my home, makes little or no reference to it and immediately switches the conversation to some related aspect of HIS layout or home. Drives me nuts. Like you, I don't want to offend him, so I'm looking at some ways I can gracefully explain how it can be offensive.

I, for one, admire your project. It looks like you have a winner, including managing the costs. Keep up the good work and by all means, enjoy! Please don't feel uncomfortable about posting here...most folks are very receptive to new ideas and ways of doing things.

Cheers to you.

Jim

just an FYI ther is also these guys

http://www.humpyard.com/

Gormo levers

I like the look of them, they look pretty indestructible, clearly they look adjustable for stiffness so could be a substitute for finicky self-latching applications, and on UK derived Peco turnouts could let you cut away and dispose of the unrealistic spring catch mechanism.

I, too, love to 'make my own' where I can, I once built a diesel driven can-opener but sadly new European emission regulations prevented it going into production.....

Doug