It can be done, sometimes

Brass engines can have bulkheads and other obstructions inside them.  You need to open it up and see what you are up against.  A photo of the inside of the shell would help making a determination of what would work best.  The old Atlas S-1 and S-2 units would have the right trucks, but the underframe detail is part of the chassis, so you would not be able to use the frame of your brass unit.  Proto 2000 had some Alco switchers which may be a better bet.  There is also an S-4 from Bachmann available now, but it has AAR switcher trucks, so you would end up with your S-1 looking like an S-3 if you used that (unless you figure out a way to salvage the sideframes from your brass unit.)

Ommited details

As Jurgen poined out the inside dimensions are very important

I have 4'' (100mm) by 7/16 inches (10.8  ) mm clear with no intervening structure

Drawings

Information from parts drawings can be useful to help narrow down a frame or part for a kit bash.

There is no dimensional information, but the general layout of a frame is sometimes useful.

Parts drawings for the Atlas Alco switchers can be found here

http://www.hoseeker.net/lit.html

The new Alco S4 Bachmann switcher can be found here

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/HO_ALCO_S4_%28DCC_READY%29.pdf

Good Luck,

John

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Information is not knowledge. Albert Einstein

...

If the shell fits the Bachmann S-4 chassis, I'd say Use it...Sound decoder and all!!!

I did this with a set of brass FT shells,they're just awaiting a lot more work now to be made operational!

Repowering Brass Alco T-6 DL 440 (similar model).

I am preparing to repower two Alco Models DL440 T-6 switchers using the Proto 2000 S-3 model. The Alco brass has a similar drive to your unit, which is an old "Pittman" style motor connected to a front power truck with an under tank drive shaft to the rear truck. Horrible runner.  My options were:

1.  Rebuild the original drive with NWSL (North West Short Line) gears and axles. I just don't like seeing the tank drive and the missing air tanks, not to mention it still would sound like a coffee grinder at work. This is the best method if you are collecting these units and wish to maintain originality with a working model.

2.  Use NWSL new Stanton drive. This is the best method in that no modifications are needed to the chassis and body. My plan for my third T-6 model will use 1x powered Stanton drive truck and 1x unpowered as it won't take a lot of power as a Maryland & Delaware shortline loco. Cost will be near $120. I would cast the air tanks from my Proto 2000 units to fill the space between the battery boxes. There will be plenty of room for a sound decoder and maybe a smoke unit within the body shell. Only con to this set up is that I still have to use those four tiny screws to hold the chassis to the body. As long as you don't have to frequently disassemble the unit, this will not be an issue. The power trucks are self contained (thus I assume can be maintained without removing them), and are supposed to be able to support DCC (no further info). The screws are small (1/16"?) and screw into soft brass.

3.  Use Proto 2000 chassis. This provides air tanks and interiors as a bonus. You have to desolder the bracket for the four small screws mentioned in #2 above from underneath of the brass loco's walkway. You will have to notch or remove the tower on the front of the P2K chassis that holds the light board so the front of the brass loco will fit the chassis. And you have to modify the "box" under the P2K cab area on the chassis to fit the new brass cab, which has screws on each side to hold the walkway to the cab.  You have to remove floor material from the brass chassis where the rear truck tower will locate, since the original used an under floor style truck. Then there's the issue on how to mount it. I want to mount the unit via the coupler mounts, but the chassis coupler mount is located higher than the mount for the brass pilots. Since the P2K unit has a solid lip (all the way across the end area) where the coupler mounts, I think I'll cut out a box shape in that lip that passes over the brass pilot coupler mount. Then I'll fab a brass beam that connects to the brass pilot mount and both sides of the chassis end plate. Haven't got started yet (or know when I'll restart), but I did examine the unit to this extent.

Any other ideas out there?

Powered-truck options, speaker locations

Dear ??? (Delmar),

If you're going for the Stanton trucks, I'd strongly consider reaching for 2x powered trucks. With the weight of a brass body on top, they will need all the powered axles they can get. Alternatively, consider the 27:1 ratio "Black Beetle" units from Steam Era Models http://www.steameramodels.com/bbeetle.htm .

If you do elect to go the "powered truck" route, and want to add sound, don't just blindly "fill in the tank area". Again as the donor is brass, it's already (likely) plenty heavy enough, and the tank area is prime for a downward (or maybe even upward, if you can seal the body and use it as a huge enclosure) -facing speaker install/enclosure.

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Brass Alco T-6 DL 440 Speaker Locations

Prof,

Thanks for the input and for the Black Beetle idea.  My reasoning for the powered/dummy combo is basically economics.  The T-6 is small enough that this combo would do for branch line service (the loco will pull 5-8 cars behind the backdrop at the interchange). Delmarva (acronym for DELaware, MARyland VirginiA peninsula) is flat as well so this combo would save money.

In principle though, I'd use two power trucks if I can afford it when I get to the project just to increase the value and usability of the unit. If one is going to use their repowered switcher on the mainline, I would definitely suggest using two powered trucks.

My plan for the speaker location is easier with the T-6 than for other "S" switchers in that I can put a round speaker in the round radiator fan housing on top of the nose. This lets me keep my tank area open for the noticeably missing air tanks (really bothers me for some reason).  The plan is to desolder the solid "fan grill" disk, replace with a Details Associate etched metal grill, and seal in a round speaker. Sound system will be QSI as they appear to be the only ones with the T-6 prime mover.

For anyone repowering an "S" switcher (S1,2,3,4,5, or 6) may wish to use the space between the battery boxes in the "tank" area (These Alcos stored fuel under the cab). Once you remove the Pittman motor, the mounting hole can be used for passing the speaker wires through without having to drill. Good suggestion for location by you, especially for these units.

Any ideas on mounting the chassis without the screws? Maybe adhesive caulk?

Brass Alco T6 Repowering...

Brass Alco T6 Repowering

Todd,

I would love to see photos for ref.  I had some of the old Atlas/Roco S-4s but sold them. Which versions were Kato equipped?

Alco T6 Repowering

For DelmarvaRailFan78

Here's a sound clip of a real T-6 idling. Turn your volume up and enjoy.

  http://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/MRH/N&W%20Alco%20T6_42.mp3