Some thoughts on the room I have.
Some thoughts on the room I have.
As has been established, this is a relatively small space, 11'7" x 7'10", and must be shared with other uses. I saw the article about using the free standing shelves. However, I already have bracket shelves on three walls. These are very sturdy (screwed into the wall studs) and currently hold several hundreds of pounds of books and other material. At one time I had and 80 lb CRT monitor on a self. As for a base, I was thinking about 1" foam insulation. It worked very well on a test loop I did a long time ago. I need a way of mounting to the brakes uprights. A tray to set it in. I found some aluminum angle stock and I can fabricate a tray. That will be my next experiment. This will take a little time as working is getting a little crazy. But, I will take pictures and post the results.
Doug M
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Comments
Foam works
Foam works well for shelf layouts as long as it's thick enough to support itself between the brackets.
Peter Pfotenhauer
Moving my armchair back into the trainroom where it belongs
I was on report (sit waiting
I was on report (sit waiting for work to happen), and had to some time to cogigate.
I can use 3/4" alumimnum angle stock to create a tray for the the foam to sit in. Attach some more angle stock to brackets and the tray sits on those. It would further need some cross bracing angled much like a bridge truss. With the shelf supports 16" apart & the cross braces, there should be plenty of support for the foam. Sort of | \ | / |.
Doug M
Doug Maddox
Reading Company Along the Bethlehem Branch
FOAM
iF YOU USE 2" THICK FOAM YOU REALLY DON'T NEED ANY SUPPORT UNDER THE FOAM. As long as the shelf brackets are on 16" centers. The foam is really more rigid than most people believe.....Mike
OOps on the caps :)
Modeling eastern steam in N scale.
Columbus ohio
2" FOAM
Good idea but some problems. I used it on my railroad and had to liquid nail some luan to the bottom so I had something the switch machines could get screwed into for support. Also, hand throws do not always set correctly to be firm enough to hold the switch points against the stock rail. I've had to make some modifications so good electrical contact is maintained.
Foam does provide for a lightweight and durable foundation, however.
Chief Operating Officer
The Greater Nickel Plate
Some Suggestions
You could just cut pieces of luan or hardboard where needed for Tortoises
Here you could again use Liquid Nails and set plaster around the stand so it can't move.
I will be using foam insulation board almost exclusively on my new layout (except for major grades) since most of where I am modeling is relatively flat. At first I considered plywood base but the added expense won't be justifiable given the rigidity of the foam.
-Johnny
Freelancing the Plainville, Pequabuck and New London Railroad
Foam and hand throws
I I've been using Caboose Industries hand throws on my foam-based layout for quite awhile now.
Three suggestions:
- use a very sparing amount of white glue to secure the throw to the surface.
- use cork roadbed and mount the hand throw on an upside down chunk of that.
- use long stick pins with green and red heads on them to hold the throws down - they serve to secure and act as indicators of the throw position.
Where you've got to mount the throw on the foam because there isn't any roadbed under the track, excavate a small hole and glue a piece of cork inside it to use as a base for the throw.
--
Jeff Shultz
http://www.shultzinfosystems.com
The Willamette & Pacific RR - Oregon Electric Branch
Model Railroad Hobbyist Technical Assistant