MRH 120 Day Challenge - Post No. 03 Retention Pond Paint & Pour
Work continues on the mountain section retention pond. In an earlier post I scratch built an overflow pipe. In this post I paint & pour the retention pond and add that pipe.
I wanted a muddy color for the pond which isn't very deep - maybe 3 - 4 feet at the deepest. To get the color I mixed green, brown & black colors until I got the color I wanted which should be muddy with a slightly green cast. In this picture I've painted the pond bottom. I started by painting the entire area the same color. Next I took some of that color and added black to it and painted the deeper area with that darker color. I then used the brush with water only to blend the two colors together by brushing from the center towards the shore. Next I added a little more black to my mix and painted the center a little darker and used the same technique to blend the colors. Finally I took some of my original paint color and added a little white to the mix and then painted it just at the shore edge. Using water only I brushed from the shore towards the center with water only to blend the colors.
For the water pour I used Woodland Scenics(TM) "Realistic Water". Why did I use that? Well, all of my Envio-Tex Light(TM) is packed for the house move! I used a little Vaseline(TM) to coat the overflow pipe inside and out to reduce the "creeping" of the "water" of the pipe. I got that little hint from Joe Fugate's excellent scenery DVDs. After I made the pour I used a toothpick to gently distribute the "water" to the edges and then set the overflow pipe down in the water.
Once the water dries I will coat the surface with some gloss medium since rarely is water completely still and flat. I'll also paint and detail the shoreline.
Rick
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Comments
Nice!
Your pond looks good Rick. What is the actual depth?
Al
Starting over in HO, with RailPro.
Pond depth
Al,
Thanks! The pound is about 1/4" deep with the thickness of the water about 1/8"
Rick
Rick
The former Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO / MRH Blog Eastern Standard Time
Good Start!
The color looks spot on Rick! Bring on the catails and pond scum!
Kevin Klettke CEO, Washington Northern Railroad
wnrr@comcast.net
http://wnrr.net
Thanks, Kevin.
Kevin,
I was debating on if I wanted to add cattails & scum of this retention pond. The retention pond that I'm modeling from memory was fairly "clean" and didn't have either. I'll have to "think a spell" on this one.
Rick
Rick
The former Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO / MRH Blog Eastern Standard Time
Yes it does!
Rick R.,
Yes, the Vaseline does work in stopping resin creep. This is the first time that I have used it and I'm happy with the results.
Rick
Rick
The former Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO / MRH Blog Eastern Standard Time
How Much?
Ok, here's a question I've always had. How do you figure out how much resin to mix for a praticular water feature? I know some will need more than one pour, but if I had a small lake, or a stream, how would I figure out how much resin to use without wasting as lot, or not having enough?
Ken Biles
How Much?, measuring resin
One of the things that works well for me for "guestimating" the amount of resin is regular dry sand. dump the sand into the area you want to pour the resin into move it around so it fills up all the areas that you want filled with "water'. Vacuum it up with the shop vac, make sure you empty the vacuum canister before you start sucking. once you've got all the sand cleaned up dump it out of the vacuum into a measuring container of some kind and Viola! the exact amount of resin you need. I've used this method several times for "water" pours and all the time when I'm pouring RTV rubber to make molds. This works really well when it's a complicated part and you have no idea how much rubber to mix. Rubber is expensive and there is nothing worse than having a bunch of it slowly congealing in the bottom of a container and having nothing to pour it over. Of course, when it's in a mould you don't need to vacuum, just dump the mould over onto some paper.
At any rate, it's a great way to figure out volume.
Rick Reimer,
President, Ruphe and Tumbelle Railway Co.
Clarification
Correct me, if I am wrong, but there may be a misconception by readers of this post - I sense it is perceived that the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water is a two part resin, requiring pre-mix. It is a one part product (in a 16 fl. oz. plastic bottle). As such, you pour it until it fills the cavity for the water body. Of course, if you need more than 16 fl. oz., then you probably need to measure the volume of the cavity. The instructions indicate you can add to the original pour, if the first application is not enough.
Bill D.
N Scale (1:160), not N Gauge. DC (analog), Stapleton PWM Throttle.
Proto-freelance Southwest U.S. 2nd half 20th Century.
Keep on trackin'
Could you
pour real water into the basin? Will plaster or Hydrocal dissolve once hardened? If not then why not use real water to measure?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Bernd
New York, Vermont & Nothern Rwy. Co. & Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Co.
Who's John Galt?
Real water to figure volume
Bernd,
It would be possible to use real water if the area was totally sealed with water resistant paint and the water wasn't left in the area long. If you started with a measured amount and poured the water in the area and then could tell how much was left in the vessel after the pour you could use subtraction to see how much water there was in the pond. Once the water was removed from the pond / lake if would be absolutely necessary to make sure the pond / lake was completely dry before pouring the resin.
Rick
Rick
The former Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO / MRH Blog Eastern Standard Time