Great work, well though out. Would have run tracks up the wall higher and put valance over layout to put lighting in. Also mount lights under upper level for next level down lighting.

I noticed that you have some shims under the shelf supports.  I was wondering how a shelf layout could be leveled if the shelf supports sagged somewhat and you have a very good solution.  Thanks for the posting.

Rick

Just how do trains travel between levels? Looks like three feet between them.

And I think you should let folks in on your "secret" you referred to when asked how you get so much done so quickly. I know what the secret is, I just wonder if anyone else has figured you it out yet.

This is the photo of the rear cleat next to the wall.  This is also used to level the bench work.

The main Helix will fit in the spot of the bench work that is left open without a 1x4 front face on it.  You can see the gap just past Gila Springs and before Chicken Head on the layout.  The Helix lines up with the lower stage yard.

The last photo with the tanks,  The exit side of the Helix is just below the tanks and moves out of a tunnel into the middle peninsula and into the town of La Grange.

So it looks as if the benchwork is fastened to the shelf arms primarily through a single wood screen at the tip of the shelf arm.  I've been thinking about this lately -- how to make shelf layouts feel like they're solid, permanently installed layouts without them actually being that.  How stable do you feel that solution is?  If you were to mount push/pull turnout controls to the fascia, would the shelf jerk around while the turnouts were being operated or is that screw enough to make it solid? Does the slack/play in the shelf arms to the channels show up at all in the stability of the benchwork?

1st you need to make sure the back of your bench work is perfectly square.  The back edge is were all the force will be. once you screw it into place and will also self level based on the back side of your bench work.

2nd Twin Slot wall bracket/Rail.  Make sure you run your screws (I use 3" long wood screws.  Make sure you pre Drill all your holes or you will split your studs) in to the studs,  Do Not use drywall screws or anchors.  My studs are set on 24" on the inside walls and 18" on the outside walls

3rd I use the twin slot shelf system.

4th pre drill the metal shelf bracket at the tip just larger than the screw you will use.  I use the 1 3/4 dry wall screws.  I normaly use an old 2x4 and hold the shelf bracket and drill down from the top into the wood.  Then I clean the hole with a metal file or dremal tool.

5th.  This is were every thing comes together.  I Pre drill from below through the hole in the shelf bracket and up into the cleat.  You do not want to split the wood.  When you drill make sure the you or have a helper push the bench work back towards the wall and keep it level.  Make sure you drill up and away from the wall do not drill toward the wall.

Wall /  = Good      ( / = Drill angle ).  I try to drill about 22' degres or so.  Just make sure you have the angle.

Wall \  = Bad or Wall I = Bad

6th I use my Ryobi 18v drill with a philips bit to drive the screws into the Cleat.  As you drive the screws up you will see that the bench work is pulled into the wall.  If you see that the bench work is not level use a hammer to tap it up or down in the back to level it.  You will see the bracket lift a little some times or change angels.  that is ok.  You want the bench work to push into the wall bracket. Just make sure the back of the bracket if fully set into it's two slots. before you start.

 Once you torque the screw down just the friction alone will hold the shelf level.  One you have 3 or 4 screws in you will not be able to move the bench work up or down.  That is why you want it to be square on the back side.  Make sure the bench work is full level too.  Once the screws are tight banging the bench work with the hammer will not even move it.  It will be solid.

I normally put a cleat in the rear of the bench work to keep it level.  This rear cleat is not needed unless your sitting on the bench work etc.  It will be solid and you will not be able to move the bench work once the tip screws are tight.

Sometimes your walls are not truly flat etc. or you have a gap etc.  Just use some door shims or paint stir sticks from the Home Depot etc.  Door shims do work better than pain sticks do to the bevel.