Kevin,

I've tried transferring the track plan in a manner similar to what you propose, but have found that at each page junction there is a registration error. That is the sheets don't quite line up exactly the way they should. The more sheets the more error. In at least one circumstance, the registration errors were great enough that the whole layout no longer fit.

As an alternative, I've taken to using software to be sure that the layout fit in the space and to locate critical elements such as particular turnouts, and/or curves. Then I laid the critical elements then simply filled in the less critical elements. I found it much more successful and less stressful.

Dick

I printed out 1:1 in XtrkCad without any of the special markings (can't remember off the top of my head what its called).  There is a slight difference due to not printing to the very edge of the page, but I found it fairly easy to line everything up, slightly overlapping the pages then taping the pages together.  Its worked well for me with no real difference over the area of the layout.

The most sensitive areas involve  turnouts.  Use the same brand turnouts you plan to use in the layout and pin them in place.on the plywood - you don't have to do the whole layout - just the places that involve turnouts.    If necessary you can get by with only one turnout - mark the track ends and draw the rest.  Turn the turnout over for the other direction. 

When the tricky spots are marked you can use a flexible spline - like a 1/4 inch  square balsa or basswood strip from the hardware store to fill in the connections.  Depending on the size of the layout you won't need to print patterns for the whole thing.  Focus on the turnouts and curves.  Curves have a way of getting tighter as you work.

This is the fun part and also most important.  Don't compromise on curve radius - it will bite you in the end.

Art

I think that's what Dave was trying to think of. Should make it easier to position adjoining pages... If you can see the marks on the bottom sheet. It a good tool when you can see them.

Since I use a layer of pink foam between the plywood and the track, I do two things.  first I draw out a grid pattern in 12 in centers across the foam using my drywall square (which is 4 feet across on one leg).  Then I sketch the track plan on the foam using my scale drawings.  I try to start with a known straight track, lay it out, then do switches, then curves, etc.

Thanks Guys!

Good ideas all around.

I am fairly disappointed with the lack of accuracy (assume it's got a lot to do with the printer) when printing the track plan 1:1.  After the months (cringe) YEARS spent planning the "perfect" layout in my favorite open source track planning software (XtrkCad) I thought I might see better results from the printout.

Dick you are right, registration marks seem to be virtually useless, the overlap is a factor to be kept in mind and the non printing edges are less than ideal for those lines that run close to the edge of the sheets.

That said, I am managing to get things aligned half decently, I think.  I decided to follow Dave's example and have been taping the sheets together once I am happy with the alignment.  It seems to be working.

I will also follow Dick and Art's advice and worry most about laying out the critical elements like turnouts and curves accurately.  The flex track between can be fudged a bit.

Phillip, your grid method is solid too.  I think I may try it in the future rather than printing all these sheets and piecing everything together.

I gotta love the MRH forum for the quick, quality responses I get to my questions.  This is the first time I have used a track plan in this way to build a layout.  My previous layouts were all done using the highly suspect, "lets see where this track ends up" method, LOL!

Thanks again all!

Regards,

Could you not use long sheets of banner paper. This would require less individual sheets

I used a 4' steel rule do two things: 1) align the sheets across an edge (datum line); 2) measurements for the registration rules that print on the sides of each page. Periodically I used a framing square to make sure I wasn't drifting off square as I built up rows of sheets.

Worked like a charm.

When time comes to transfer to plywood my plan is to cut out each track right-of-way, place on plywood, mark edges.

I used Empire Express for the Mac to plan the layout. When printing full size, I included a 2" grid as part of the plan. The grid was accurate within each sheet, but I found I was getting slightly off from sheet-to-sheet (my bad). So I checked the grid spacing from sheet to sheet using a steel rule, and that worked much better. I pinned and spot-taped the sheets together.

I tried two larger Walthers pounce wheels to transfer; however, the penetrations were not deep enough to suit me. Perhaps the paper was too heavy - 24#. I then used a small awl to punch spaced holes (about 3/4"-1" apart for curves and turnouts; much wider spacing for tangent track). That worked well. After removing the paper I connected the dots with pencil.

Empire Express was quite accurate; I made few tweaks to the full-size plan and actual track. In this regard, note that I had made small adjustments to their included sizes for the Walthers/Shinohara curved turnouts I used because as I have mentioned before, the actual diverging radius differs from the advertised. Also, I hadn't checked their standard turnouts and found that the actual #4s are slightly shorter, the #5s are right on and the #6s are a little longer than drawn.

Dante