Cost of each..................

......is what, if I may ask?  I have no concept of these tools.  Thanks.

Peter

a couple of comments

The real cost of a mill or lathe is the business end:  the cutters.  I have a friend with a mill, mostly for the purpose of building 1½" scale live steam locos.  He has easily spent the price of the mill over again in cutters and other devices.

The size of the piece, accuracy of work, and hardness of metal all have a factor in equipment selection.   If you're mostly doing roof trusses, where precision is not the most important aspect, and you're using aluminum, brass, or other softer metals, then maybe the smaller machine.

Loco frames are typically harder alloys, with more precision requirements, especially when doing things like loco frames with critical driver spacings to avoid binding of running gear.  There, I would chose a larger, more stable machine.

How about the laser doing wood or styrene?  

Adelante! (forward!)

I have lusted after some version of option one for fifty years.  Each time I got close I thought up some reason not to commit. 

I say go for it - bite the bullet, suck it up, swing away, jump right  in, charge ahead, be bold, follow your dream, whatever.

If  you have the tool capacity to make things you will make things.. If you need more cutters, buy them.  Learn - do - experiment - create. 

You will be old before you expect - the choices you have will diminish with age - better to have loved and lost etc.

I have run out of advice on this issue - Please let us know your decision.

Art 

Historic Low Mortgage Rates

With mortgage rates hovering around 3% I say take out a second mortgage and buy them both!

experience?

If you have never used a lathe and/or mill, you'd be advised to buy a few how to books first.  (check out blue ridge machinery). Most of the work is in the setting up and clamping down. The cutting bit is the relatively easy part. But there is a lot of practice needed in getting a feel for cutting speeds and depths, and general metalworking know-how, before you can touch something you can't afford to replace. (including your fingers and eyes)

The point about cutters is valid, but knowing which expensiveaccessories you need (for what you plan to do) is also important (hence the book). A  useful set definitely costs more than either machine and not all are common to both.  And most are specific to certain processes.

A mill can build its own replacement. A lathe is a lot less useful unless you are into making wheels. Both are even more useful for repetitive work if you add CNC.

A laser cutter doesn't need skill, except for adapting drawings. But if you are thinking of commercializing it, you'll notice that the MR cottage industry has many already, and there isn't much wooden/card stuff, that can't be made a lot more expensively by using a laser, especially, if you operate in raster mode. And CO2 lasers don't cut metal at all.

Option 1

I'd go for option one. If the laser breaks down after the guarantee ends where do you take it to get fixed?

For those that are curious here are the links to the two items mentioned above.

The lathe/mill:

http://www.sherline.com/prices.htm

The laser:

https://www.inventables.com/technologies/desktop-laser-cutter

And Andy, the lathe is the only tool that can replace itself,  not the mill. Hard to turn round parts on a mill but it can be done. Milling can be done on a lathe.

Bernd

lathe vs. mill

I read once that the lathe/mil duo is a particularly North American thing.  Many model engineers in the UK simply do not have the space, and for years would use the lathe as a mill with perfect success.  A mill might be better suited for a number of jobs, but there is not one that cannot be done on the lathe, properly set up.  If I had to chose, I'd go for a good lathe on it's own any way.

part historical myth, part industry convenience

Mills are good at producing long flat surfaces, while lathes (so fitted) cut threads easily. Milling on a lathe isn't exactly plug and play., especially for long distances.

...

Well, ok, first and foremost, the only difference between a lathe and a mill is that in a lathe, the work rotates and tool is stationary, while in a mill, the work is stationary and the tool rotates.  The Sherline Mill and Lathe utilize the exact same motor and drive in either unit; the differences are solely is in the base.  The purpose behind one of each is the time that is lost in reconfiguring a mill into a lathe and vice-versa.  So we can conclude this discussion here, you can do with only one or the other, but it really is Best to have both on hand!  Me personally, I see a lot more work I could do on a mill versus a lathe.  It may be indeed possible to machine a lathe with the mill, but even then I'd need a second motor and drive unit, so it's a wash in the end.

I'm quite aware that I cannot cut metal with the laser; the focus of either machine is an entirely different road altogether.  The mill/lathe approach heads off into the realm of metal tooling, while the laser cutter heads off into the realm of wood cutting.  Different machines, different directions, different jobs.

Hence we are at my crossroads; I'd like to do either set of projects, I really would.  However, I am only able to go down one road at a time, so I must plan wisely.  The Sherline is a good solid investment, but I'm not sure it would get much use versus the laser cutter.  There is wisdom in this reality that the tools that go with the machines are as much if not more than the machines themselves, and then the really good tooling is even more money on top of that.  And finally, the learning curve with this setup is nontrivial, at least when we compare it to the laser cutter.

The Laser Cutter then appears to be a more complete "package."  For the cost of the lathe/mill, I have everything in the system without any further investment.  Materials cost would be similar with either setup.  The training required to use the laser appears to be minimal, after reading through the users manual.  I've spent enough time with an engraver at work to know these machines function more like a printer than anything else; press play and it prints what you ask it to print.  The trick is learning how to tell it to play precisely what you want it to play!  

The laser cutter has the distinct advantage that I could indeed make something that very is sale-able very quickly, compared to anything I make out of metal.  The likelihood that I could recoup my investment would appear better with the laser cutter versus the mill/lathe - I could perhaps even come back to the lathe/mill after a couple years on the laser - even with the prolific number of cottage industries already in the marketplace. 

Either way, I'd be an animal with a good laser in-house.  As for machine/mill/lathe setups, perhaps I can ask around locally and find someone who has the setup already and get some training while accomplishing my projects.  The 2-10-4 project, for instance, requires two holes be drilled parallel to the chassis, the frame for the fifth driver bearing removed, and the rear section reattached with brass pegs through the pre-drilled pilot holes parallel to the chassis.  This will keep the section straight, and by further putting a couple well pockets at either end of the pilot holes, I'll be able to put some solder on the brass rod, thus performing a permanent fix...It's a simple job, with the right tools, but it's a one-time deal.  With the wood cutting jobs, well, let's just say I draw up projects at the drop of the hat...

I think I may have my decision at hand...oh boy...It's been a fun week...

Machine Tools

Benny,

“Well, ok, first and foremost, the only difference between a lathe and a mill is that in a lathe, the work rotates and tool is stationary, while in a mill, the work is stationary and the tool rotates.”

Very broad statement. Find me a milling machine that can produce an Acme threaded shaft of any usable length.

“ The Sherline Mill and Lathe utilize the exact same motor and drive in either unit; the differences are solely is in the base.”

I have the combination machine. My lathe can be converted to a mill utilizing the same motor. It takes about 5 minutes to change between lathe and mill and then 5 minutes back again. I’m sure you waste more time working on modeling projects. That change over time is a weak excuse used by many home shop machinists.
 

“Me personally, I see a lot more work I could do on a mill versus a lathe.”

That may be true but the first time you want to turn a shaft, thread a part or make a round wheel, what will you use? The mill will be able to produce a nice square wheel ala the BC stone age cartoon. I know that somebody is just going to pop here and tell you can use a rotary mill table to do that. Your right, but the lathe is faster.

“ It may be indeed possible to machine a lathe with the mill, but even then I'd need a second motor and drive unit, so it's a wash in the end.”
 

You stated that above and I also said that it can be done with one drive unit, did you not?

“I'm quite aware that I cannot cut metal with the laser;”

This statement needs qualification. Lasers can cut metal depending on the type of laser used and then only certain metals can be cut. A CO2 laser is used to cut sheet metal for instance and of course it depends on the wattage output of how thick you can cut, just like a plasma cutter. The ruby YAG laser is weapons grade and will cut almost anything but a mirror.

“The Sherline is a good solid investment, but I'm not sure it would get much use versus the laser cutter.  There is wisdom in this reality that the tools that go with the machines are as much if not more than the machines themselves,”

Again a false statement made by those who have no idea about machine tools. The lathe needs tool bits that can be bought very cheaply and I assume you already have a drill set right. What more do you need for a lathe?

“ and then the really good tooling is even more money on top of that.”

What is considered good tooling? Can you give me an example?

“ And finally, the learning curve with this setup is nontrivial, at least when we compare it to the laser cutter.”

That is absolutely true. The laser is easy because all it takes is a cad program and away you go. Anybody can do that. But to run a machine tool takes talent and know how and must be learned over a period of time. I know because I’ve been in the machine tool industry for over 40 years.

“The Laser Cutter then appears to be a more complete "package."

Not really. You can’t cut metal with a table top laser. I don’t think you can cut styrene. Not a very complete package if I say so my self. At least with a mill you can cut brass, steel, wood, plastics of all kinds. And so can the lathe cut the same products. I’m sure they use lathes and mills to make parts for building the laser. And the metal parts my even be stamped out instead of laser cut because it’s faster.

“I've spent enough time with an engraver at work to know these machines function more like a printer than anything else; press play and it prints what you ask it to print.” 
 

Who fixes the engraver when it breaks down electrically? At least with a machine tool you can make a part and they are not that complicated electronically.
 

“The laser cutter has the distinct advantage that I could indeed make something that very is sale-able very quickly, compared to anything I make out of metal.  The likelihood that I could recoup my investment would appear better with the laser cutter versus the mill/lathe - I could perhaps even come back to the lathe/mill after a couple years on the laser - even with the prolific number of cottage industries already in the marketplace. “
 

Ah so here’s the real want for a laser to make parts to make money. I bet I could make a master part faster with my lathe and mill and make resin castings while you wait to get your laser cutter fixed.
 

“The 2-10-4 project, for instance, requires two holes be drilled parallel to the chassis, the frame for the fifth driver bearing removed, and the rear section reattached with brass pegs through the pre-drilled pilot holes parallel to the chassis.  This will keep the section straight, and by further putting a couple well pockets at either end of the pilot holes, I'll be able to put some solder on the brass rod, thus performing a permanent fix...It's a simple job, with the right tools, but it's a one-time deal”
 

Send the 2-10-4 to me and I’ll drill the holes for you. It’ll cost you $2700.00 plus shipping and handling. But then I can add a laser to my already full shop of machine tools.

Bernd
 

The "Really Good" tooling in

The "Really Good" tooling in this case would de things like the CNC Attachment and the Digital Read Out upgrade.  And then, there's the Tools themselves, and we're perhaps all familiar with the difference between low grade bits and high grade bits.

The Engraver at work has never been broken.  It's not a laser, but it's similar technology so far as computer output to product goes.  I looked up the Laser Cutter, and it includes programming that will enable it to "print" from even MS Word.  To get the same tooling with the Mill/Lathe, I'm looking at another 2 grand or so.

Hence why I believe it will be easier to produce stuff on the laser versus the mill/lathe.  Touch and go, and it's done.  In the time you spend setting up the one master, I'll have a file prepared to run - and that file will only need a fresh sheet of material on the printer bed to run.

Obviously time on the laser will be an important consideration.  I'm reading up on it as being somewhere near $0.30 a minute.  What more, laser tubes may become cheaper the longer we go - we can't say for sure one way or another.  Now if I can get $1.00for every minute I put on the machine, then I have $0.30 for the machine's replacement when it breaks, $0.30 for the mill/lathe, and $0.40 to recoup the laser investment.  I don't see myself getting to this point near as quickly with the mill/lathe.  It is indeed a very hard world for laser cutter products right now, seeing as how there are so many lasers in use now, but it's a softer world versus what I could do with metal working.

Yes, Commercialization is a consideration.  You perhaps could very easily make your resin master in the time it would take me to set up a file, but once I have that file set up, its as simple as hitting "Print."  Yes, you mention the time I would have to wait while I get my laser fixed, should it break down.  On the other hand, the amount of training it would take me to get to where you are now would overshadow this time difference.  I'm thinking if I get the laser first, my laser could be running full speed on projects while I train on the mill/lathe. 

I think I know what I will be doing here...Laser first, then mill/lathe when the time comes! 

Horses for courses

I think the real question is, what do YOU want to do?  I know what I'd chose (the lathe) but that's me.  As I see it, the machine tools are the better option if you want to make machines, 3D objects, parts.  The laser cutter is a 2D machine, and ideal for 2D projects like car sides, buildings, etc.  So, do you want to build locomotives or freight car kits?  Gear boxes or packing crates?

As I said, for me the choice is simple.  I like building machines, and I would love to have the tools to do some real metal work.  A laser cutter would get minimal play at my house.  Some people would rather buy their models and build the buildings to perfect scale.  It's all up to you and your preferences.

I've been to the Sherline factory.

They also have a museum there of minature engines, locos, planes and such that were made using their machines. Impressive stuff.   http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/

Now to the question. My choice would be opition one, mill and lathe.

But my question to you is this, why can't you use a wood bit in the mill to do the things you want to do with the laser? I think it's doable.

Like someone else mentioned, get the digital readouts and I think you can acheive it with some pratice. I would think you would cut it similar to the way a laser would in that you would leave small tabs here and there to hold the item within it's main stock and then finish the cut with a rasor knife which is how you would do it if you were using the laser. Or at least that is how most wood kit manufacturs do it. Granted it may be a bit more time consuming using the mill vice the laser, but your doing this for your own enjoyment, not a bussiness right? And once you have the first one done and your numbers saved, it should be easy to repeat the process.

Laser -V- Lathe/Mill

Just got back from reading the sites specs on the laser. I added up the components that would be needed and came up with a prise tag of $5817.00. Now if I don't use the HEPA filter for doing plastics and I can vent it outside I'd be $1250.00 ahead of the game. So a total of $4567. 

Will you vent it outside? If so what will the neighbors say when they smell burning plastic? 

Another interesting fact is it needs a water pump to keep the laser cool. Plus you need to buy a compressor which they quote at $150.00. You only have a 60 day warranty on labor and parts unless you buy the extended warranty.

The statement below got me.

"Note: Warranty excludes parts that show neglect (eg. running laser tube without water, not keeping lens/mirrors clean, physical scratches on lens/mirrors). Shipping is excluded."

So have you ever cleaned front silvered mirrors. They scratch pretty easy. I know because I worked in maintence at the place I worked and we had to clean the gold faced mirrors of the CO2 laser. They scratched very easy and cost quite a bit to replace.

PVC based plastics are not recommended for use in the laser cutter. Although the material can be cut in a laser cutter you should avoid it as the process produces chlorine gases which is not good for the machinery or people around it. Chlorine corrodes the parts of the laser, lens, mirror and metal parts. 

From my research it looks like the lathe/mill option is a better choice,a full CNC Sherline package is $3110.00. That's $1457 left over for tooling. 

These are the facts above and I have no involvement with Sherline other than a satisfied customer. My whole Sherline setup cost me $1700 several years ago at an auction.

What I'm trying to do here is present some facts of both types of machining.  Each has it's pluses and minuses. The final decision is up to the individual.

Bernd

Whoops

Forgot to add the electronics package to the Sherline products. $930.00 for full CNC for a total of $4045. That still leaves me $522 for tooling.

And no need for a HEPA filter, water pump or compressor to replace when they break.

Bernd

Thanks all!

I've thus far been able to price the laser out at about $3610; lIke I've said before, the price point between the two are really quite negligible - they're the same ballpark.

I'd only be getting the 2" and the 1.5" lenses.  Perhaps a larger one too, but it's unlikely.

I'd be cutting mostly wood and venting outside.

Care of the machine seems to be the most important part of maintianing long life.

I do believe a couple years on the laser will yield the Sherline lot much quicker than the reverse...

Ken, I enjoy scratchbuilding as much as the next guy.  However, I really like crisp clean cuts and precision fitting parts.  After assembling a couple lasercut structures and then attempting to scratchbuild my own windows, I have deduced that laser cut windows, doors and other such trim is right up my alley.  An added benefit is that any structure I tool up for myself is potentially marketable whereas all I have to do after the first one is press print, and I have a complete structure kit [albiet however many files it takes to produce the one structure]

I'm aware fo the styrene issue - I'd be restricted to acrylic and wood.  I anticipate most of my work will be on wood.

Well, we'll see what happens here. 

Wish you good luck.

Benny,

I wish you luck in your endeavor. May you succeed and when you do please post the results. I'd be very interested.

Regards,

Bernd

Why would you want to do that?

Benny says:

This package would allow me to do fun things like convert the Bachmann 2-10-4 frame into a 2-8-4 frame, or tool up new driver beds for my Bowser Challenger[s]. But after these projects, then what?

I'll let others involve themselves in the machine tool/laser cutter discussion. However, I'm curious as to why you'd want to shorten a Bachmann 2-10-4 frame for use as a 2-8-4 when both Bachmann and Walthers have perfectly adequate 2-8-4's with the proper drive spacing. I'm also curious as to why you'd want to make new frames for your Bowser 4-6-6-4.

Way back in the early 60's, there was a fellow named Bob Darwin who superdetailed the Bowser Challenger to a fare-thee-well (in fact, IIRC, that was the impetus for Cal-Scale to offer a superdetailing kit for the Challenger). As part of that project, Darwin did mill out the frame(s) so that the drivers could be sprung. In any case, the original frames were used, they were just modified. 

The Darwin detailing series can be found on MR's DVD of 75 years of MR. IIRC, the series started in late 1961 and went into 1962. However, that's from memory as I don't have the issues in question anymore, so I could be off by a year. 

Mike

Why? Because it's there

There are times when one sets out to build a specific model, and you find the optimal parts to begin with and go from there.  Other times, however, you start with a collection of parts and try to figure out what to do with them.  Those are the really interesting projects, because you never know what might happen.

While I agree with...

There are times when one sets out to build a specific model, and you find the optimal parts to begin with and go from there. Other times, however, you start with a collection of parts and try to figure out what to do with them. Those are the really interesting projects, because you never know what might happen.

it doesn't really answer the question. 

I can see someone extending the frame of an MDC 2-8-0 ahead of the drivers to allow a 4 wheel pilot truck in order to make something like, say, an SP TW-3 4-8-0  http://www.yesteryeardepot.com/SP2940.JPG  (or in N scale, doing the same thing to a Bachmann 2-8-0 to make something resembling an N&W 4-8-0 as Russell Straw did). Or adding a frame extension behind the last drive axle on the frame of a Bowser or Mantua 2-10-0 to make either a 2-10-2 or 63" driver 2-10-4 a la T&P or CGW (perhaps even a Central Vermont T-1 http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=892040  although with slightly oversized drivers).

Russell Straw did take an old N scale Atlas/Rivarossi USRA light 4-6-2 model to make make a 4-4-2. That I can understand since no 4-4-2's were available in N scale, but I can't see the point of doing something similar in HO (which would be akin to cutting down the Bachmann 2-10-4 frame) since both Penn-Line/Bowser and Mantua manufactured 4-4-2's and the parts are, relatively speaking, readily available. There's a whole raft of 79-80" driver 4-4-2's that could be cobbled up using either the Bowser or Mantua frame.  Like say, a replica of the SP A-3 that's in Griffith Park in Los Angeles. Mantua frame, MDC cylinders, cab, 70C-1 tender, Precision Scale trailing truck. You'd have to roll your own boiler probably as it's straight vs. the wagon top style used on the MDC "Harriman" loco's. Here's a pic of #3025 in the park: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Southern_Pacific_Class_A-3_4-4-2_-3025.jpg

For a little more challenge: http://www.yesteryeardepot.com/SP2914.JPG

Running gear: Mantua 4-8-0

Boiler, cylinders and cab: MDC "Harriman"

Some of these engines were equipped with the 7,000 gal Vanderbilt, which MDC manufactured and some had their headlights centered. Detail parts are readily available from Precision Scale.

You'd need a new pilot. The crosshead guides were Laird, similar to those used on Mantua's 0-4-0/0-6-0 family of switch engines and available from Yardbird Classic Trains

Oops. I've hijacked the thread. Sorry.

Mike

The Berkshire Project

Here's the Berkshire Project:

Once finished, this unit would represent a unit purchased from the ATSF and reshopped by my central Arizona home road at the height of the steam era.

Basically I picked up a junk lot with this very nice brass ATSF Berkshire boiler in it.  My initial though was that I could use a Mantua -8- frame, but then I needed a pair of the 2-10-4 tenders [I don't want centipede tenders] for my Challengers and this 2-10-4 Engine came along for the ride. It turns out the new redesigned Bachmann chassis under the 2-10-4 is actually quite nice - I ran it around a bit to make sure first.  Now I'll likely use the DCC guts towards the Challengers, but who knows at this point.  The rest of it will become this 2-8-4, the tender behind this unit will be one I scrapped out from a brass Hudson boiler/tender shell set where the boiler not worth repairing [low level detail, low level workmanship, low level quality; not all brass is created equal].

I will never touch another P2K/Walther's unit again, be it an 0-6-0, an 0-8-0, a 2-8-4 or anything else they build.  They are about as weak as the old Bachmann units with the cracking gears from back in the 1970s, only they have binding side rods once the rods start bending; they're thin, with VERY thin rings around the crankpins, which is a terribly place to be weak.  And what's more, there's no rebuilding them, and parts are not cheap.  I've now seen too many boxes of P2K graveyards.  Did I mention they're also grossly overpriced from the onset?  No thanks. There is only one place I'll use a P2K unit, and that is for a stuffed and mounted foreground display model within an engine servicing shop.

Now there's some other things I like to this Bachmann chassis.  The first is the boxpok drivers - something you don't get with the Bachmann Berkshire chassis.  This driver was often used in place of spoked drivers [1, 2, 3 or all 4] as driver development progressed, seeing as how the spoked drivers cracked with age.  The Bachmann running gear is quite nice, darkened, etc, and of Santa Fe heritage, which is precisely what I'm after for my boiler shell.  Compared to the older Mantua running gear, this chassis is light years ahead.  You may notice the drive rod attaches to the third driver, which is precisely where I need it [the 4-8-4 has the attachment on the 3rd driver, and larger drivers, so it'd be ideal for a conversion for a Hudson drive.]  I'd retain the light siderod that between the fourth and fifth driver, while eliminating the heavy siderod that is between the third and fourth driver, thus delivering the look and feel of the siderods on the ATSF Berkshires.  The lynch pin is how neatly this chassis fits my boiler up to the 4th driver - perhaps a little tight, but it looks and feels just about right.  A pair of alignment pin holes in the horizontal axis, two cuts in the frame, and a splice held together with brass pins tinned with solder, and I'm in business.

Now we'll go one step further: the motor block mounts onto this chassis via three points.The rear two points will have the be redrilled and retapped into the modified chassis - not hard to set up, with the right tools, once the chassis is shortened.  The motorblock will need the aft 1" or so removed, but this is not an issue seeing s how the rear 2" or so are extra space and nothing else.  The front motor mount will remain as is, and with slight modification the whole thing will fit into the brass boiler without issue.  All I need to do then is drop in a decoder in the engine and I'm home free.

Now you may ask why I don't go use Bowser/Pennline drivers.  The short answer is, it would take about $100 or $200 in Bowser parts alone to get where the Bachmann chassis places me right now, and this is before the issues of assembly, quartering, motoring, and the tweaking to get it to be a smooth runner.  I don't even know if I would use the Bowser drivers if you gave them to me; with their parts department closing out, I'm not so interested in that route any further.  The Bachmann 2-10-4 is a smooth runner right out of the box.  No contest.  Most people seem to have a chip on their shoulder against Bachmann for the 30 or 45 years that proceeded the last 10 years, but I honestly do believe most of the products that have been tooled up in the last decade, minus a couple poorly designed components [driveshafts for shays, for example] are exemplary.  This may be hard for some to believe, but this is what I've seen thus far.

I tested the 2-10-4 before tearing it up; I do believe when I have this finished I will have a very nicely running engine.
 

The Challenger Issue...

Here's the Challenger in question:

Issue number one is simple: I do not like the appearance of Scullin drivers, I prefer Boxpok, call it a Road Preference.  Both units have Scullin driver.  They have to go.  I'll probably get a couple sets from Bower to replace them if they're still available.

Issue number two that the frames for the second mechanism have been chewed up a bit by the previous modeler using the wrong tools to do his work.  I've done it myself, and know why he'd have done it so.  the right tools will make rebuilding the mechanism that much easier than trying to do it like it has been done.

Issue three is the internal electronics.  Back in 2001, I wasn't too keen on electronics.  Now, I know its mandatory.  The nice thing is, the Bachmann tenders already have DCC in them, and plenty of room to go sound if I opt to go that route.  All I will need are the circuitboards from a 2-10-4 to plant into the locomotive to facilite the electrical connections.

Now while we're on the topic of Articulates, I cobbled this up many years ago while I was still a junior in college.  I would LOVE to build a proper mechanism for it

The large box on the front pilot was a housing for a swamp cooler, for the explicit purpose of keeping the cab cool.

When I rebuild it though, I'm going to rebuild the pilot into something a little more appropriate, such as this:

And yes, I'll use a real tender this time, instead of the little oil canteen.

Last Project...the Stations...

And finally, I have the station project...and it looks like another station, and a cannery are joining the wishlist, for the club layout...

This project is all but stalled out until I find a suitable way to make my windows.  Yes, doors and windows are a pain in the rear...as are things like the bay window...

Just scratchbuild a new chassis with laser sideframes

Draw the side frames the way you want them in thin ply, use some solid spacers, then add metal bearings.and fit in the parts. you wil have to use the exiting spacings if you want to use the original coupling rods. Plenty of how to info on the various UK sites.