Creating faded painted signs on brick buildings.

TimWarris's picture

The post earlier today by Ashcreek got me thinking about a technique I used in the past to create faded signs on brick buildings.  I wrote a post about it on one of my blogs and thought I would share it here.

It really helps that it is a simple cut and paste from Wordpress to copy an entire blog post, including images,onto this forum!

Hope you find it helpful...

Tim Warris

 

Click on the picture for a larger version...
Weber sign
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

The (blue) sign on the side of this building is a bit of an illusion. It looks like a painted on, faded sign, but it is neither painted on, nor faded.

Click on the picture for a larger version...
Weber sign
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

This sign was made by scanning the fully painted and weathered wall, drawing the sign in CorelDraw, combining the two images and then adding a fading effect to the sign allowing the brickwork to show through the sign.

The sign is then printed out, cut from the paper, and glued back onto the wall in exactly the same location as it was drawn in the software.

What you are seeing is not a faded sign, but a picture of a faded sign on the same wall.

I will outline how this process works with this post.

This building looks like a good candidate for a new old sign.

Click on the picture for a larger version...
Downtown Deco building waiting for a sign
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

This Downtown Deco building has a couple signs on it already, but I have never been too happy with them, they look good from far, but they are far from good. The Coke sign is simply glued onto the bricks and the Nehi sign is printed onto tissue paper and glued to the wall. The tissue paper method works fairly well, but could be better, I would like to see the bricks show through the sign a bit more.

I found a good sign to use on the Railroad Line forum, which has a good collection of signs.

A sign could also be drawn using CorelDraw. Both methods will work equally well for this.

The first step in this procedure, once the wall is painted and weathered to your tastes, is to scan the wall onto which the sign is to be added.

This is done by laying the entire building onto the scanner and scanning the side into Coreldraw. (Or any bitmap editing software that allows the control of "opacity" or transparency).

Building on scanner
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

Some cropping will need to be done to isolate only the wall from the entire scanned image.

Only the area where the sign is to be added needs to be kept. Be sure it is larger than the sign. Here, I have the entire wall scanned and ready to receive the sign.

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Wall scan
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

With the wall scan open, import the sign into the same page. The sign may need to be re-sized to fit the wall.

Making the sign smaller is not a problem, but be careful to not try and make the sign much larger, as a bitmap will become "pixelated" when scaled up too much.

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Scale sign to fit
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

Drag the sign onto the wall. If it goes in behind the wall it need to be brought up to the top layer. In Coreldraw this can be done by pressing "Ctrl PgUp"

I drew a black rectangle around the sign to help define it a bit.

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Drag sign onto wall
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

Now the neat part. With the sign selected, select the "Transparency tool" from the toolbar. Select "Uniform" from the first drop down box and move the slider to increase how transparent the sign will become. I have set it to 74% here.

This allows the image below the sign to show through by increasing how transparent the sign is. This creates a "faded" look to the sign.

Click on the picture for a larger version...
Fading the sign
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

I find the sign is still a bit too clean looking, fortunately there is a tool that can take care of that.

Included in CorelDraw are several bitmap editing tools. Select Bitmaps from the top tool bar, then Art Strokes>Cubist.

Play around with the settings to create a more faded effect to the sign. The setting I used can be seen in the image below.

I used the eyedropper tool to select the "paper" color from the brickwork.

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Cubist tool
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

I didn't think the sign was faded enough, so I selected the transparency tool again, and bumped up the transparency value to 82.

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Adding more transparency
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

Now that the editing on the sign is complete, it has to be printed out in color. Use high quality paper, and the highest quality settings on the print.

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Printing sign

Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

There will always be a bit of a color difference between the original wall and the printout. Don't worry about that, it won't show in the end. Trying to match a printed image to an original is almost impossible, you can drive yourself nuts trying.

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Wall and printed sign
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

Only the sign is needed from the printout, carefully cut it out with a straight edge.

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Cut out sign
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

Using a emery board, sand the back of the paper, removing most of the paper, leaving only a thin layer. This is easily done, but be careful not to tear the sign. If you do, simply print out another one and try again.

Sanding sign
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

The final sign is a bit on the bright side, so I dulled it down by brushing on a wash of leather dye diluted with alcohol.

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Staining sign
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

The sign is glued to the wall with ordinary carpenters glue. Spreading a layer of glue on the back of the sign will make it very pliable, and allow it to be worked into the mortar lines of the wall, creating the illusion that the sign is painted onto the wall.

Be careful not to tear the sign when applying it, as it is very delicate at this stage.

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Apply glue
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

I work the paper into the bricks with my finger nail.

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Working into mortar lines
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

Once the sign is glued onto the building, I brush on another layer of the stain, this helps blend it all together. Adding some streaks on the wall below the sign will simulate the colors running over the years.

Click on the picture for a larger version...
Weathering sign
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

The edges of the sign show a bit in this picture, because it is such a close up shot, but from a normal viewing distance they are invisible.

The bricks show through the sign, and create a well weathered look to this ad, like it has been on the building for some time. By adjusting the amount of "transparency" in the sign, you can vary how old the sign will look.

What makes this work, is that the brickwork that is showing through the sign, is the acutal brickwork that is on the wall. Its a perfect match because it is the same wall.

Click on the picture for a larger version...
Final sign
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

Here is a couple more signs done using the same techniques. These signs were drawn from scatch in Coreldraw, then converted to bitmaps, also in Coreldraw.

Click on the picture for a larger version...
Another example
Image Copyright (c) 2006 Tim Warris

DKRickman's picture

I love it!

Wow!  Those signs look amazing.  I had never thought of using an image of the base wall as a background for a printed sign - that's pure genius, and really does a lot to add to weathered painted on look.

One suggestion:  I have found that my scanner sometimes introduces weird colored artifacts on anything other than perfectly flat surfaces.  Plus, if there are any protrusions from the surface, it won't sit on the scanner properly.  Both can be solved by shooting a high resolution photo of the wall as straight as possible, and then using the perspective correction and scale tools to make sure the image is exactly the same size as the model.  Including a scale ruler might be handy to make sure that the printed image scaled properly as well, although it shouldn't be mandatory.

Ken Rickman

Danville & Western HO modeler and web historian

http://southern-railway.railfan.net/dw/

TimWarris's picture

A digital camera works well too

Hi Ken,

Thanks for the feedback.  I originally used this technique back in about 2003 before digital cameras were as inexpensive as they are now.  The first scanner I had did the same thing you described, but I have found the newer ones work much better at scanning irregular shaped objects.

A good, square on picture should also work fine.

 

LKandO's picture

Ditto DKRickman

That is pure genius. Thanks.

Alan
www.LKOrailroad.com

Walk-in, Double Deck, HO, 1969, Freelance, 28'x32', DCC

Well Done!

As a photo buff with experience in photo editing I congratulate you on a very sound and effective technique. The procedure is absolutely logical and the effect perfect.  It was waiting for someone clever to 'discover' it: you did a great job of it. Thanks!

 

Alexedwin's picture

 Brilliant!

yes Brilliant!

Alex - A Puffing Billy Railway Fan. Modeling HOn30 & Nscale
GMT+10 Svensson Heights,Queensland, Australia - Skype Name: alex.edwin
Used to be Bundaberg North
rclanger's picture

Great idea!

Thanks for sharing in so much detail. Will give  it a try,

rtw3rd's picture

Tim, loving it!

Tim,
Great techniques and very well documented. Next time you have something so "juicy" you may want to consider writing it as an article and squeeze some $$$ out of Joe!

I was also wondering if you could have the sign and brick background on different drawing layers and use the transparency tool on the sign, say set at 50% to "scrub" areas on the sign layer to allow varying amounts of the brick layer to show through. Just a thought...
Rick

Rick

The former Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  Eastern Standard Time

Kevin Rowbotham's picture

Tim used to be a columnist for MRH...

Next time you have something so "juicy" you may want to consider writing it as an article and squeeze some $$$ out of Joe!

Rick, Tim had to give up his editorial position with MRH because he was simply too busy running FAST TRACKS.

I imagine finding the time to write this up as an article would be mostly out of the question.

Great tutorial Tim!  Thanks for bringing this over from your blog.

I still miss the Port Kelsey!

 

 

~Kevin

Appreciating Modeling In All Scales!

UPWilly's picture

Yes, Tim, Thanks

As usual, you write your methods very well. I admired your initial writing for MRH in you "Parallel Lines" column. You may recall that, last year, I had asked you about a continuation of the effort ...

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/4700#comment-38462

You contribution on this subject of sign making leads me to feel you might have the time to add to the link referenced article. Believe me, Tim, I do understand running FAST TRACKS can take a lot of time, but I was hoping to see the Part 2 someday soon.

 

Bill D.

N Scale (1:160), not N Gauge. DC (analog), Stapleton PWM Throttle.

Proto-freelance Southwest U.S. 2nd half 20th Century.

Keep on trackin'

 

 

rtw3rd's picture

Thanks, Kevin

Kevin,
Thanks for the info on Tim - he certainly is a busy guy!
Rick

Rick

The former Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  Eastern Standard Time


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