RAGC

This blog will be slower than my previous two construction blogs, that of the Tyco/Mantua Pacific conversion to a  Southern Railway Ps-4, and the conversion of an MDC/Roundhouse 2-8-0 Consolidation into Tallullah Falls Railroad #78.  This is because I am very busy with work, and have a lot less time available.  Also because this will be my first DCC locomotive: in fact, #78 will also be converted to DCC operation.

TFRR #74 was Southern Railways' #202 Mogul 2-6-0, built by Rogers in 1889.  It was acquired by the TFRR to replace a previous #74 scrapped in the mid 1940's. Once more, the MDC model is very close to the prototype.  In fact, the sand dome will not have to be relocated in this case, as it was for #78.  #74 had its original wood cab throughout its entire service life.  This cab is identical to the MDC/Roundhouse Old-Timer cab, so this will be retained, resulting in a very different appearance from the #78 project.

The principal changes in the conversion of the model to #74 appearance will be reducing the size of the drivers from the kit-supplied 60"+ "high-stepping" drivers to a size closer to the prototype 54" drivers.  I was able to find a  used set of Tyco/Mantua  51" drivers with their hex-headed screws for around $5.00. I believe they are from the 4-6-0 kit.  In preliminary fitting, the pinion gear of the flangeless center driver needed to be slid a bit to locomotive right (starboard). After doing that and mounting the drivers, the mesh with the model's reduction gear appears to be perfect.  I have not tested under power yet, only by turning the open frame motor's armature. There is no binding or slop in the movement.  The trailing pair needs to be moved up to the same spacing as the front to center pair.  This will mean that at least one pair or rods will have to be re-made, using the shorter pair as a pattern.

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I replaced the pony truck wheelset with the remaining pair of 30" 9-spoked wheels left over from the #78 build.  This is from a NWSL set, # 47226-4 .  It is to be tested if the stock rods can be used for the front driver set.  The driver centerline is the same even though wheel diameter is greatly different, but is the eccentricity is the same (I have not measured yet) the length should be identical. A test by placing the rods over the wheels seems to confirm that the length is the same, and so the front rods will be useable. As mentioned before, they will be the pattern for the new pair of back rods. There needs to be some light reaming of the pin holes to accommodate the brass screws' blind shaft, which is a larger diameter than the model's stock plastic pressure-fit pins.  The pilot will have to be cut off and replaced, as the lower height causes it to be at track level.  This is fine, as #74 has a more projected cow catcher.  I have to study the valve gear hanger, as it also comes pretty low to the track.

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I am awaiting the DCC decoder to arrive before beginning the conversion in earnest.  I have looked into my brass parts bin and selected most of what I will need.  Missing are the headlight and tender light, but the kit's original "modern version" plastic ones are good enough and a LOT easier to drill than the brass ones!

2_ssmall.jpg 

So here goes again...!  Please be patient with the slower speed of the conversion.  I promise it will result in a unique piece of motive power, and I hope some of what you see might cause you to chime in with better ways to accomplish the same task. This will be a learning experience for me, with your help.

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DKRickman

This promises to be interesting

Quote:

 It is to be tested if the stock rods can be used for the front driver set.  The driver centerline is the same even though wheel diameter is greatly different, but is the eccentricity is the same (I have not measured yet) the length should be identical.

The length of the rod has absolutely nothing to do with the driver diameter or crank pin offset.  It is only related to the axle spacing, so merely swapping drivers (regardless of what kind of drivers) will not require new rods.

Of course, as you mentioned, moving the rear axle will require new rear rods.  I would strongly suggest that you proceed carefully.  Use the front rods as a pattern only if you are absolutely certain that you have the new axle spacing exactly the same as the front.  Better would be to cut a new axle slot, and then measure the spacing to make a new pair of rods independent of the front set.

I just took a look at the drawing - the spacing is not the same.  It's 7'6" between the front pair, and 6'6" between the rear pair.  To really be accurate, the middle driver needs to come back, rather then the rear driver forward.  Since that's a lot of hacking and splicing (not that I doubt you are up to the challenge) I would suggest bringing the rear driver forward so that the axle is in line with the front of the cab (as on the prototype).  It won't be quite right, but the axle spacing will be a mirror image of the prototype, and simply having it offset will look closer than exactly even.  Of course, the simple thing to do is leave it as-is and call it close enough.  It's a lot of work to move an axle, for relatively little visual benefit, although you're the one who has to do the work and/or look at the results!

How does the model compare to the prototype in overall length?  I'm thinking of things like stack/cylinder centerline to the front of the cab, boiler diameter and height, etc.  My first guess is that it should be quite close.

Also, I just noticed something in the photos.  You're probably aware of it, but just in case..  The middle driver looks like it is flipped 180 degrees from where it should be.  It looks like the other two drivers have their insulation on the fireman's side, but the middle driver looks to be reversed.  Short city.

Ken Rickman

Danville & Western HO modeler and web historian

http://southern-railway.railfan.net/dw/

Reply 0
Bluesssman

I am looking forward to

I am looking forward to seeing your progress! I am a steam nut, so your project is of great interest to me.

Gary

 

Gary

Head of clean up, repairs and nurturing of the eccentric owner

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RAGC

Drivers

Dan, I had decided on just locating the back set just as you describe; at the cab's front edge.  I will be sliding the cab back slightly to lengthen the boiler, as the prototype is a bit longer than the MDC calls for, but they modeled the backhead too long because of needing to hide the motor.  I can use this intentional inaccuracy to lengthen the loco!.

 As for the insulated side, merely a photo illusion: all drivers currently have the insulated rim on the left, I just looked again after reading your post.

 

Rafael

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RAGC

Interesting article...

http://www.55n3.org/locomotives/roundhouse/small_drivers/

 

It seems I'm not pioneering after all!

Reply 0
DKRickman

Good find!

Harold has quite a bit of interesting stuff on his web site.  Sometimes he's a little out there (like 1:55n3, for example) but I tend to think along the same lines and I like out of the box thinking.  I'd forgotten about that page in particular, or I would have pointed you toward it when I suggested the smaller drivers, but that's exactly the conversion I had in mind.

Ken Rickman

Danville & Western HO modeler and web historian

http://southern-railway.railfan.net/dw/

Reply 0
RAGC

Update:

I received my DCC Decoders more than a week ago.  It just so happens that I also was awarded a BIG contract and I have been working my butt off 38 hours a day getting set up and I have had no time for anything else.  If I touched a model now I would probably snap it in two... too tense!  

I hope by next week things have settled down to somewhat resembling a routine and I will be able to pick this blog where I left off...

 

Thanks for being patient!

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RAGC

Wow!

Wow!  It's been a long time!

 

The contract turned into a new office with five employees... Business has been great!   Have not had a day to spend on railraod stuff, and I miss it!  Now I look forward to a day when I can retire and get back to model railroading!

 

I am very sorry I never continued this blog.

Reply 0
erniebell

Back to Model Railroading

Hello, Sent a long comment on another of your threads. So here I'll just say Hello and hope you are gettng back into modeling.  I would be interested in what you have been up to if anything.

EFrankB

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