cordless screwdriver

Rick, could you give us a shot of the cordless screwdriver and details of the mfr/part number?  It looks like the type I've been looking for (but am repeatedly told no longer exists).

Thanks for the posting!

David

I am glad you are sharing

I am glad you are sharing everything about your layout. I learn a lot from you.

I would like to ask what DCC system you use and why?

Gary

So Easy to Follow

Rick, you do a fantastic job using pictures to illustrate construction. Well done.

Here is a thought for you - make your panel from 2 pieces of Lexan glued together. The front panel being the same thickness as your fascia board. The rear panel being 1/2" larger on both dimensions. Cut the hole in the fascia to match the front panel dimensions. Mount the panel from the rear by gluing/clamping/taping/whatever the rear panel to the rear of the fascia. Presto, a flush mount panel with no visible fasteners.

Cordless screwdriver

David,

Here's the information on my cordless screwdriver:

And here's the link:  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049P1ZU6/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details

I've been very happy with the unit.  I got the chuck from MicroMark.

Rick

My DCC system

Gary,

I'm using the Digitrax Zephyr with a DT402 wireless throttle and a UT4 throttle. I went with Digitrax as our operating group (NCIOG) mostly uses Digitrax and at the time they were based in Atlanta near me.  I found it difficult to learn but reliable.

Rick

Thanks, Alan

Alan,

Thank you for your kind words and for the great idea on panel mounting.  I may just give that a try!

Rick

Cordless screwdriver

is exactly what I'm looking for, although I'd prefer to buy it locally (Victoria BC) if I can.  I have the same chuck or its little brother.

Thanks Rick

David

Painter's Tape

Using the painter's tape to keep from marring the finish of the fascia is a great idea, Rick. And using it to mark where to drill and cut is genius, too, except that those of us who never make measurement mistakes wouldn't need to use it...

Tom

Rick, it looks great!

I got thinking about the rotary switch instead of the usual toggle.  My first thought is that it's expensive.  But then I dashed that thought because I wasn't going to spend modeling time checking out price comparisons.

What settled in however was that a fascia-mounted panel is easy to do, as you've shown, and the rotary switch is GENIUS!  If someone bumps the fascia they can't inadvertently switch the turnout.  A toggle switch is much easier to mess up.  And it would seem more likely to catch on clothing than a rotary knob.

Also, the diagram can be aligned with the travel of the rotary knob so the user has tactile feedback on which way the turnout is supposed to go, with the pointer going right over the diagram lines.

I like it.  I really, really like it!

And I do agree with Tom, you might be alone using the blue tape.  None of the rest of us would EVER make a misteak.  < eraser dust> I mean a misstake.  < eraser dust>  I mean a musteak. < lots of eraser dust>   I mean - - - goof up.

Excellent photo-essay, too.  Thanks!

Kevin

Just my 1.1 cents.  (That's 2 cents, after taxes.)

Thanks, Kevin - 75 cent rotary switches

Kevin,

Thank you for your kind words.  I've saved you some shopping on rotary switches as you can get them for 75 cents each (in lots of 10 or more) from All Electronics.  Here's the link: 

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/RSW-50/ROTARY-SWITCH-2-POLE-3-POSITION/1.html

And here's a picture:

Since I'm a "wide body" and my aisle is only 36" I know someone would be knocking into toggle switches which is why I went with the rotary and because with the "chicken head" knobs (an ebay item for around $1.00 each) they won't change directions with a bump and do indicate visually the position of the turnout.  You will notice that the switches are three position and you only really need two positions.  I didn't modify the switches to two position (which you can with some work).  If an operator rotates the switch into the third position by mistake both LEDs go off; however, the turnout stays in the last position.

I don't know if you saw my previous post about making a panel, but here's the link:

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/6498

And, long live Blue Tape!

Rick

Gary, don't miss the key point that Rick makes.

"I would like to ask what DCC system you use and why?"

"I'm using the Digitrax Zephyr with a DT402 wireless throttle and a UT4 throttle. I went with Digitrax as our operating group (NCIOG) mostly uses Digitrax and at the time they were based in Atlanta near me.  I found it difficult to learn but reliable."

Every dcc system has a learning curve fro everything from how to hook up al of the components to how it operates, and how to trouble shoot any "gremlins" or "glitches."  Rick chose Digitrax because most members of his operating group used Digitrax.  Nothing helps you to "climb that learning curve" better than having friends to help you.  If you don't know other model railroaders in your area, go to the local train shop if there is one and try to meet other model railroaders nearby.  Find out if there are any clubs in the area.  Check with the NMRA to see if you live in an active division or region.  If they are active, join.  Find out what dcc systems have a decent following in your area.  

Here in Southern Cal. the modular club that I belong to uses the wireless E-Z DCC system from CV Products.  Virtually everybody else that I know in So Cal uses the NCE system including my friend who owns Railmaster Hobbies.  I looked into both systems and decided on the NCE only because NCE offers a starter system in the Power Cab that is reasonably priced, while CVP only offers a more expensive system designed for much larger more complicated layouts than what I can build in my home.  My layout will be a switching layout based on a freelanced version of the Los Angeles Junction Railway and will be operated with only one Cf-7, and no other locomotives.  If I were building something more complicated where I would need either the NCE Pro Cab or the CVP E-Z DCC system, then I would have had more trouble deciding which system to buy.

One advantage that the modular club has found with the E-Z DCC system is that we usually set up at train shows with other modular layouts nearby.  Since we run E-Z DCC and virtually all of the others are running NCE, we never have any problem with another club next to us "stepping" on our signals.  In talking with members of other clubs running the NCE systems, some have reported that someone running a layout with an NCE system next to them occasionally experience problems with a locomotive on each layout having the same address and the two systems "stepping" on each other's signal if both of those locomotives with identical addresses are being operated at the same time.  That is a problem that you won't have in a home layout, or with a layout where the throttle is hard wired with a tether, rather than being cordless.

In short, most dcc systems are very good. All of them have a learning curve.  Find one that others in your area are running so that you have a local "tech" support in addition to the tech support offered by the manufacturer.

Tom, my daily chuckle

rotary switches & wiring

Hi, Rick-

Could you expand on your switch wiring and turnout control set-up? The rotary switches are very nice, and something I have in mind for my future layout. TIA

Al

Turnout voltage?

Rick - don't think of yourself as a 'wide body'.  Think of yourself as a 'safety cab'.  That trick worked for me.....

Anyway, I'm pleasantly surprised to see the price of the rotaries.  Even with the cost of the knob, it's cheaper.  I'm going to save a lot of money with this idea, and also not having to use blue tape.....

Quick detail question:  how much voltage do you supply to the turnouts?  You've got a tortoise in series with two LED's.  Looking at your first picture of the underside, they look like standard LED's, not any kind of bi-color.  So the current goes thru one of the LED's and thru the motor, which lights only one LED at a time.  Do you get satisfactory motor speed with this? 

The pics don't show resistors, so I'm guessing the Tortoise is the current limiter for the LED.

Thanks again,

Kevin

Just my 1.1 cents.  (That's 2 cents, after taxes.)

Rotary switches & wiring

Al,

I'll see about posting something in the near future on more details on this.

Rick

you are correct

I've wired Tortoises the same way.  I use 12V AC which is rectified into half wave DC, which is effectively something like 5 volts.  Yes, the motor coil on the Tortoise acts as a limiting resistor, so no resistors are needed for the LEDs.

Turnout voltage

Kevin,

I like the "safety cab" - it sounds much better!  I'm glad that you like the pricing on the turnout controls.  Even with the plastic face plates the price is "reasonable".  I buy my LEDs in bulk and get a good price on them also.

Right now I'm using a 10 VDC 1200ma power supply to power my Tortoise turnout motors.  Why this supply? - because Circuitron's included spec sheet says that the Tortoise will operate on up to 12 VDC and I happened to have the power supply which I think I kept from an old discarded printer.  They also say that a 9 to 12 volt wall plug adapter rated at 500 ma will power up to 30 switch machines.

I use standard LEDs wired in series with the turnout motor and Cicuitron states that each LED wired this way will drop the voltage to the motor by 2 volts.  This method also means that you don't have to include a resistor on the LEDs and they light dimly during turnout motor activation and reach full brightness when the motor stalls at the end of movement.   I am thus getting about 8 VDC to the motor and it's speed and performance is satisfactory.

If you'll look at the wiring information for the motors there:

http://www.circuitron.com/index_files/ins/800-6000ins.pdf

If you'll look at the sheet with the wiring information half way down the page your will see diagrams numbered left to right 1- 4.  My wiring is a combination of "1" except instead of a DPDT toggle switch I'm using a rotary switch wired the same way and of "4" showing the LEDs.  When I get a few minutes I'll try and draw up something, but you can get the idea.

Rick

Turnout wiring diagram using rotary switch & LEDs

Guys,

Here's a basic wiring diagram showing how I wire my panels:

Rick

Completion of turnout control panel for gravel plant & industry

I finally have completed the turnout control panel for the gravel plant / industrial area in the alcove addition. The wiring was a little more difficult for this as one 4 pole double throw rotary switch controls two Tortoises(tm) for the three tracks to the gravel plant.  Because of this arrangement I didn't wire the LEDs in series with the turnout motors but instead wired them through resistors (470 ohm) directly to the rotary switch.  By the way, this panel is 3" high by 10-1/4: long as compared to my single turnout control panels which are 2" by 5".  Here's a picture of the completed panel:

With the installation of this panel I can now start operations in this area as soon as I add some "place holder" industries.

Rick

three way turnout wiring?

Rick-

When you have a chance, would you post the wiring for the 3-way, showing both the lighting and the tortoise connections?  It looks great, and I'm curious how you solved that.

I use bi-color red/green LED's on my panel.  I have a 3-way section like you have.  I can get the green to show for the correct track the rotary switch is pointing toward, but I can't get the red for the other two in all positions.  I might need to add relays or something.

Nice panel!  The grouping of rotary knobs looks fine.  (Keeps the Safety Cab from catching on it.......)

Kevin

3 way wiring

Milestone reached! - Last turnout panel installed in alcove.

Today I reached a milestone in that the last turnout control panel was completed and installed in the alcove addition.  This panel controls a crossing off of a siding that goes to two industries.  Here's a picture of the panel:

Now when I have my first operations session it won't be necessary to use a pick to switch the turnouts.  I'm sure that I'll appreciate this feature more once the area has scenery as operators will only need to reach into the area to uncouple cars.

Rick

Thanks, Eric

Thumbs up!

Very slick looking panel.