Depends on how old the models are.

If it were me, I would upgrade to newer locomotives.  The will run better and provide much less frustration on your part.  The cost to upgrade those with DCC and sound will cost almost as much as buying a good running unit altogether.  Having said that, If they run good on DC and do not draw to much power, then upgrading them to DCC without sound would be fine.  Non sound decoders now are less than $20.00 and are not that difficult to wire in.  Good luck, and great to hear that the hobby is being passed on!!    

Older Model Power and Bachmann Engines

Goug,

The early Bachmann engines were driven by a pancake motor and were 4 wheel drive. If this is the type of engine, then It would be better to replace it with a new engine. A Bachmann factory DCC .diesel can be purchased on line for $40.00 to $80.00. Bachmann DCC sound equipped engines are available for as little as $100.00.

The model power Sharknose may be a candidate for a DCC upgrade. I believe the Model Power was a model with a can motor and 8 wheel drive. I would first clean and lubricate the model and check how it performs on DC. If it is a good runner, then a DCC upgrade may be a good option. If it needs repair, parts may be hard to find. Remember a poor running DC engine will become a poor running DCC engine. I have included a link to The TCS site.

http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Model_Power/Sharknose/model_power_Sharknose.html

A digitrax sound decoder will cost around $40.00 to $50.00, and these are the cheapest new sound decoders.

Good Luck,

John

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“Even if you are on the right track, you’ll get run over if you just sit there.”   Will.Rogers
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There's no such thing as "too old"

Take a look at these:

http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Tyco/F9A/F9A.html

http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Tyco/Alco%20Century%20630/TYCO%20ALCO%20CENTURY%20630.html

If it runs, you can put a decoder into it.  Whether or not you want to is another matter, but it sounds to me like you do, for sentimental if not practical reasons.

Older models can be a challenge to get the motor isolated in, but the pancake motors are actually nice in this regard - they're usually plastic, and the brushes are easily accessible.  If the models run and have any meaning to you, I would not hesitate to put a cheap decoder into them.  They will run at least as well as on DC, and possibly better.

I think they are probably "pancake" motors.

I suspect that they are old enough that they are powered by pancake motors on one truck with power pick up from the other truck.  If that is the case, they don't have enough pick up to ever run decently.  You can buy a basic model Bachmann diesel for @ $20.00-$25.00 new that will come with dcc installed already.  I don't know if any other manufacturer has come out with basic "train set" diesels for a similar price with dcc installed.

Another option

You could always swap the shells over to something with a more modern running chassis and motor.   You might find a running loco with a damaged shell and swap the shells. I would suggest going to a local hobby shop to talk about what can be done.  Many times hobby shops have box of stuff that they bought off of someone departing the hobby or from a closing hobby shop.  However, keep in mind that the shells being produced today have a lot more detail than those from years ago.

Den

Got me thinking

This thread got me thinking about putting an encoder in the Model Power Sharks I have. I've included a couple of pictures for those who have never seen the Model Power engine. They are made in Austria and have a very large can motor and quite drive. I'd put up the Sharks next to a Kato and you'd be hard pressed to tell which one was louder.

Here's one of my models in primer. Going to be in D & H paint scheme one of these days.

Here it is with the shell removed. That is a large weight sitting on top of the motor.

Here it is without the weight on top. Nice drive train from way back when.

I hope this helps in helping the OP with his question and gives the rest of you help in giving advise to the OP. I think that the Model Power engines are definitely a candidate for DCC conversion. Thanks for that idea. Almost forgot that I had these units sitting in my railroad cabinet. As far as the Bachmann GP engine is concerned I don't have any experience with the earlier models.

Bernd

There is such a thing as "Old and Crappy"

DKRickman,

I think it is responsible to pass on information obtained from experience, My experience with the older Bachmann engines may be different than yours, but my encounters have been bad. A poor running engine can take the joy out of the hobby.

Bachmann makes some decent low cost engines now and I don't have a problem with recommending them to modelers that are starting out, But some old engines are good, and some are not.

In my early years when I had more time then money, I tried to make a running engine out of some of the early Bachmann engines. It was a exercise in futility. If I could get the pickup system to work, the amount pulled by two axles was a joke. The pancake motor had a habit of running for about 30 minutes and then getting slower and slower.

My first engine was from a AHM train set. It was a FM C-Liner. It had a three pole motor, a two axle drive train, and a one pound weight. It has sentimental value, but it tracks and runs poorly. It is a great paper weight, so it is useful and I can keep it around.

Regards,

John

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I guess I don't so much mind being old, as I mind being fat and old. Benjamin Franklin

old meets new

I appreciate the comments  they both run true and strong.. the model power is from the 60'ies the Bachman is from the 80'ies  if that clarifies anything.

Who decides what is "crappy"?

Yes indeed.  However, the OP asked if the engines were too old to put decoders into.  As I said in my response, there is no such thing as too old for DCC.  Whether he wants to or not is another matter.  I can certainly imagine that the models might have sentimental value for him, and if (as he states) they run well enough for him now, then there is no reason NOT to put a decoder into them.

I certainly agree that pancake motors and toy train models are generally poor choices for serious modelers.  As you say, trying to make them work well can suck the fun out of the hobby.  However, just because you and I would not have a use for them does not mean that they are useless and should be thrown out.  I posted links to two Tyco pancake motored models with decoders, so clearly the effort was worthwhile for somebody.

Ok Good Point !

Ken,

You view is noted and appreciated. If we all agreed all the time it would be a dull world.

Thanks

John

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If God had wanted us to be concerned for the plight of the toads, he would have made them cute and furry. Dave Barry

old school meets new

Hi again I do have DCC.  but tthe diesels I was talking about were mine from my childhood and my dad bought them . and now I am passing them on.. I know you really can't run both on the same track. but would like them too. if not thats ok will just have to pull the DCC of the track.. and use the old school transformers.. 

What DCC does best

As mentioned above, if they run well enough to satisfy you, then there is no reason not to put decoders into them.  Sound or not is up to you, although I would not suggest a sound installation until you're comfortable with decoder installations in general.  The speaker and enclosure locations are important, so you don't have the same flexibility that you do with a plain Jane decoder.

I'm not sure why you think you can't run both on the same track.  With DCC, you can adjust the speeds so that they match quite closely.  You can of course also control each engine independently on the same track.  They may not run well together right now, but with DCC that can be fixed.

You need to evaluate what you really want.  If you want to keep running these models on your layout, and you are using DCC, then you'll want to put decoders in them.  If you just want to keep them around and maybe run around a Christmas tree or something, maybe leaving them alone is the best option.  If you want to keep the look but bring them up to a more modern mechanical standard (specifically the Bachmann), then you might want to do as others have suggested and put the shell onto a newer mechanism.  With a little work, the shell can fairly easily be adapted to a Bachmann, Proto 1000, or Athearn drive.

As has been mentioned, I would not give the Bachmann to a beginning model railroader.  The mechanism is of relatively poor quality which causes it to be frustrating to try to use.  DCC may help to tame some of the nasties, but it will never rival a good inexpensive mechanism such as the ones mentioned above.  While the shortfalls may not bother you, and may even add character, I would think that a young budding modeler would get much more enjoyment out of something newer and more reliable.  In my humble opinion, the Proto 1000 F3 has got to be one of the best models ever made in HO scale when it comes to a beginner's first model.  It is simple, inexpensive, reliable, quiet, and doesn't have too many small parts to break, but it is also of a very high quality and can be detailed easily if the interest develops.

Turns out I have 3 powered versions. As you said they have nice big round motors that I will assume are can motors seeing as they were supplied by an Austrian company I assume is Roco. They have nice big flywheels, and drive trains that remind me of Kato.

I put them on the track and they ran very nicely,...and they pulled a bunch of cars up my heavy grades.

My next thought is would they be a candidate diesel chassis for my 'disguised pusher/helper' reefer car.??  I THINK SO !

I will likely have to cut the chassis and make it a little longer, but that's doable from what I can tell,.....More to come.

(BTW I have 2 different style Model Power shark chassis, and only one of those could be stretched without too much problems.)

 
Only the two chassis on the right (with the flywheels) would work, as they are the ones that could be stretched to match the wheel base of the reefer cars.  (The metal chassis are different between these models, and particularly the mounting of their trucks)



 

I just happened to find this old subject thread while I was trying to find positive/negative comments on these Model Power locos. Like many of us I originally just put these locos on my low ranking list similar to Tyco, etc.

But on a second look I became somewhat impressed,...like lots of products from the Austrian company Roco.

I was also encouraged with your observation,..

One of these days I'm going to have to figure out what I have here,...

That top one had a paper tag attached that said, Cannon?  Cordless, 12 volts,...2 to 1 ratio

The other four said:
9904 12012602,   Made in Holland


Then there were these: