Model glues

Roy,

It depends on the glue and the kit.  My preference for many years has been MEK applied with a long handled paint brush.  As long as you let the MEK flow into the joint (don't brush it on) it will usually not bother a painted surface.  I built a painted Proto 2000 Mather stock car kit that way.

As far as the syringe goes, I'd be more worried about the solvents in the glue attacking the components.  There are some needle tip glue bottles sold for the purpose that I would suggest, rather than a syringe.  Whether the glue dries in the tip is dependent on the type of glue.  Some have a lot of body because they have dissolved solids in them, while others are very thin because they are more or less pure solvent.  Again, I like MEK or lacquer thinner because they are pure solvents, and will not clog or leave blobs or residue on the model.

Glue applicators

Roy,

One of our advertisers, MicroMark has a number of tools for the job.  Here's the link to one:

http://www.micromark.com/micro-glue-applicator,8048.html 

The picture with description:

And here is another: http://www.micromark.com/touch-n-flow-applicator,7841.html

Here's the picture with description:

And a third: http://www.micromark.com/mini-loop-applicator,7807.html

Here's the picture and description:

There are others - just go to Micromark.com and searche for "glue applicators".

Rick

MEK & A-West Applicator

Like Ken, I use MEK to bond Styrene plastic.  I find it easy to apply where I need it, a drop at a time, with an A-West needle point applicator.  I use the blue, #16 needle tip.  Another good idea I got from watching Joe Fugate's videos.

MEK is a solvent that when applied to Styrene, melts a bit of the plastic, which becomes the glue in the joint.  Do be aware of the hazards associated with the product.  Use it in well ventilated conditions, protect skin & eyes, avoid open flame or spark, etc.

I do still use some CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue, also known as Krazy or Super glue.  The brand I have at the moment is made by Loctite and it is fairly easy to apply in controlled amounts from the applicator bottle.  A gentle squeeze of the orange sides will produce a drop of glue at the tip.

Plastics store

Hi Roy, I'm not sure where you are but if you have a Taps Plastic store near you they offer several "squirt" bottles with different sized needles for application.  I would get the smallest.  You should have a plastic store of some sort near you if Taps is not near you check the yellow pages for your area. 

Also, Joe mentions one in his DVD series but I don't recall off hand the brand - A Line with a 0.125 needle? that he uses so if you have that series you can look it up and order that from the net  Oppsss Kevin beat me to it see back to his post

Steve

A great replacement for the

glue needles

Thanks to all for the suggestions.  My application is uphill- I'll have to fight gravity to get the glue where it needs to go.  My collection of clock repair tools includes a glass syringe (plunger also glass) which I can clean afterwards and it gives me very good control of flow through the needle... as long as the tip doesn't clog.  I'll wait for my online order for a few different applicators before subjecting the old syringe to a test- if the throwaway tips work I'll be happy.

Roy 

How do you prevent the glue

from drying and clogging the tip?

Bueller?

It depends on the glue

It depends on the glue. In the case of MEK or Ethyl Acetate, the "glue" is a solvent that melts the styrene, so it's like rubbing alcohol -- very thin. It doesn't "dry", it evaporates.

In the case of evaporation, many of these needle applicators have a cap that you put over the end of the needle.

For other glues like CA/superglue, you can get inexpensive disposable plastic needle tips and when those clog up you just throw them away and use a fresh one.

Hi Roy,

If you have a couple minutes try this for a read....

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/undecorated-three-bay-hopper-project-12206916

Nick

@JoeF another trick for your tool kit

Those long glue tips sometimes clog...  what I do is take a fine steel wire and bend a hairpin... very tight U-turn.  Then (like a Rapidograph) thread the wire into the tip when finished...  The bend is made to stop the wire from completely dropping in.  In my case, the caps stretch that little bit to cover tips and wire without problems.

Next time you reach for the glue, removing the wire will strip out any glue that is prone to start a clog.

Plastic cement

I have used the "Faller Expert Plastic Cement" with success when you want some time to place the parts. It is thicker than MEK or the commercial brands.  It comes in a squeeze bottle with a steel needle and a cap. It is NOT for use when "wicking" action is desired, like when holding two parts together and touching the joint with MEK on a thin paint brush or needle.

I also made my own needle applicator: cut off the end of a sewing needle loop so it looks like a two prong fork. Mount it in a thin wood handle (old paint brush).  This works well for both MEK and ACC. Wipe the needle on paper towel after each application.

Rob Morrison

Plastic pen nibs from coffee stirrers

I apply small amounts of fluid with disposable pen nibs made from coffee stirrer plastic tubes.  Exactly like making a quill pen, I cut the tube at a steep angle then split the tip for a small distance, maybe 1/8 or 1/4 inch.

Use is the same for crazy glue, thin oil, or Tenax solvent glue.  I either drop a tiny amount directly onto the nib, or put a drop on glass and touch the nib to it.  Capillary action draws up the fluid.  I touch the wet nib to a dry surface and the fluid is drawn out.  If the ACC glue dries out and clogs the nib I cut off the end and make a fresh nib.

A 4 inch tube can produce several nibs.  I purchased 100 stirrers for $1.50, but if you do not want to use plastic I guess you could use feathers and make real quills nibs.