Sugar Beet Guy

I spent some time between holiday celebrations adding DCC decoders to some older engines to flesh out the Great Western motive power fleet.  While I am striving for prototypical accuracy. modeling the GWRy motive power offers some challenges,

The diesel era had only six engines: 3 SW1s, 2 SW9s and a GE 44-tonner. There are very few SW1 models available so I needed to kitbash some.  Back in 1990, I shortened the hoods of two old Athearn BlueBox switchers to represent the SW1s. The cabs should have been moved forward but that was impossible with the existing frame. I added details based on photos of #62, #63 and #121 and painted them in the modern yellow and blue color schemes (1980 era). 

The other SW9 will be represented by a BLI switcher currently painted in BN colors. This will be repainted in the older diesel color scheme (orange and dark blue or black) and numbered #122.  The 44 tonner is a Bachmann "EZ Command" model in D&RGW colors. The prototype was eventually painted in GW colors but I'll leave it as is.

The other diesel is a "loaner" from the Western Pacific and has no GW prototype. It has an old Cary cast metal body that I built in 1984 as a modeling feature for Model Railroading magazine. It has a can motor and is smooth and strong.  Just right for hauling longer trains up the helix.    

This shows the fleet in front of the engine house mock-up in Loveland yard.

seldays1.jpg 

I also have a number of steam engines for use during operating sessions, should the crew be so inclined. The GW had a total of 9 steam engines purchased in the early 1900s. Most were 2-8-0 Consolidations from Baldwin and were generally pretty small. Models of these are hard to find and would probably not be very good runners or capable of hauling many cars so I've substituted more modern steam engines. 

#100 and #101 were 0-6-0s used mostly for yard switching. I'm using a Bachmann "EZ-Command" 0-6-0 to represent #101 - at least it has a proper sloped-back tender. I had to modify it to add a working front coupler. I would also like to convert the tender to pick up power - it likes to stall over Atlas "dead frog" switches since it only gets power from the drives. It will be stored by the wet hopper as a scenic element until then.

#1 and #2 were the first engines purchased and were very small Consolidations from Baldwin, I do not have a representative for this class.

#51 and #52 were larger 2-8-0s bought new a few years later. I am using a Bachmann "EZ-Command" 2-8-0 to represent #51.  It works fairly well and can be used for lower level switching runs.  

#60 was the only Alco bought by the GW and was a somewhat larger engine. I have an old brass Reading 2-8-0 that will be used to represent #60. The boiler and tender are packed with lead so it is a decent performer. And I've added a Tsunami sounder decoder to entertain myself.

#75 was another Baldwin purchased later on.  I'm cheating a bit here.  I had a Proto2000 CB&Q 0-8-0 I used as a yard switcher on the old layout.  It is smooth and a good puller since it has traction tires on the rear drivers. This will be #75 and can be used to move trains up the helix. I may add a front pilot some time in the future to give it that Consolidation feel. 

The last and largest steam engine on the GW was #90, a Russian Decapod.  I have a Bachmann Spectrum Decapod that will stand in for #90.  It needs some modifications to the running boards to really look right but that may be a future project. The Bachmann model has a reputation for not being the most capable puiller so it may be relegated to fan trip or passenger service.  

All the steam engines need to be repainted (or painted in the case of the bras engine) and lettered appropriately.. The next photo shows the steam line up and the engine house.

eamdays1.jpg  

Does anyone also have the Proto2000 0-8-0?  The link between the engine and tender is the wiring plug - there is no drawbar as such. The plug has a little tab that fits over a bump on the socket but is not very secure and can come apart if the engine is pulling a load.  Does anyone have a fix for this? 

Also, has anyone ever jury rigged a pilot truck on a steam engine? There are no local hobby shops that have Cal Scale detail parts that could be used and my spare parts bin has no such items. 

George Booth
Director of Everything, The New Great Western Railway
http://users.frii.com/gbooth/Trains/index.htm
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George Booth
Director of Everything, The New Great Western Railway
http://users.frii.com/gbooth/Trains/index.htm

Reply 0
Scarpia

Proto 0-8-0

Hi George, I have a proto 0-8-0 on my workbench destined for DCC and sound conversion. I've looked at that plug, and I have to ask - have you had it pull apart under load, or is your question pre-emptive? Per adding a pilot truck, would the drivers be too small for a 2-8-0? I only ask, as I was looking at doing the reverse, but the taller drivers on the consol wouldn't look right on a 0-8-0. It may not be an issue going the other direction.

HO, early transition erahttp://www.garbo.org/MRRlocal time PST
On30, circa 1900  

 

Reply 0
Sugar Beet Guy

They pulled apart

When it was used as a yard switcher on the old layout, the connector pulled open when it was being used.  The yardmaster called over and said "The engine died".  Sure enough, it had pulled the plug.  

I think I used some wire wrap wire to hold it together then but I tried that recently and it seemed like it was going to drop into the gap between the plug and socket and I couldn't get it snug enough.  I was thinking of making a phosphor bronze cover that would snap over the connector.

George Booth
Director of Everything, The New Great Western Railway
http://users.frii.com/gbooth/Trains/index.htm

Reply 0
Russ Bellinis

Why not just make a drawbar?

All it would take is a plastic draw bar and a couple of small screws or pins, one into the back of the loco and one in the front of the tender, or did Proto do something crazy to make a draw bar more difficult than necessary?

Reply 0
Sugar Beet Guy

Driver size is OK

Yes,the 0-8-0 drivers are a little small for a normal Consolidation. They are about 48" in diameter and the brass engine drivers are about 60" in diameter.

mparison.jpg 

However, the GWRy engines had smaller drivers, most being 51" or 52". So I think the 0-8-0 is about right even though the drivers are a smidge small. Also, prototype #75 had simple piston-valve gear not the fancy valve gear on the 0-8-0.  I'm not a rivet counter.  When folks are busy operating, few notice such things.

bw75.jpg 

George Booth
Director of Everything, The New Great Western Railway
http://users.frii.com/gbooth/Trains/index.htm

Reply 0
Sugar Beet Guy

Good suggestion

I'll look into that. The connectors are screwed to the engine and tender where drawbar pins or screws would be. Maybe I can make a piece of phosphor bronze that can go over the connector and use the same screws.   

George Booth
Director of Everything, The New Great Western Railway
http://users.frii.com/gbooth/Trains/index.htm

Reply 0
Russ Bellinis

Material for draw bar would depend on if chassis is part of

the electric circuit.  If the chassis is a part of the electrical circuit with the tender picking up power on one side and the loco picking it up on the other side, then a bronze draw bar might create a direct short.  In that case you would need to use plastic or other insulated bar.  If the two chassis are electrically neutral, then the phosphor bronze would work fine.

Reply 0
Sugar Beet Guy

Lots of Plastic

The tender is all plastic so no problem there.  All the electrical connections are through the plug.  The loco side of the connector may be screwed to the metal chassis - I'll check on that.   

George Booth
Director of Everything, The New Great Western Railway
http://users.frii.com/gbooth/Trains/index.htm

Reply 0
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