Absolutely!

I have learned something from my current layout.  Never, ever, ever attempt to re-use a portion of an old layout unless it is literally perfect for the new space, and even then be very suspect of the desire to save time and money.

With that in mind, I would use the space to build a layout that will make you happy for the time being, and be willing to start over when the move comes.  Build what you like, learn new things, and maybe someday there will be a better one in the future.  I would not bother trying to make it modular or removable - just plan on tearing it down some day.

That space is great.  I can only imagine what I would do with that much room, and knowing that I have at least 10-15 years to finish it!

That could easily be done with modular bench work.

If the track is fastened down with something like latex caulk that can be removed easily with a putty knife, you could strip off the track and scenery and take the bench work with you.  Some of it might not be usable, but generally some if not most of the sections could be reused, just re-purposed in the new layout.

My thoughts exactly

That was my thought exactly.  I know my wife wants a bigger place when we are in a better spot, and housing has helped us for what it is intended for.  We see ourselves here though for about min 10yrs, after that there maybe a move-there may not...but atleast if there is I am not having to rebuild from scratch-as the hobby's price and lumber keep going up-I have something that I can setup and just run, even if it is two to three sections

Reason for not re-using a layout

Perhaps I came across as too dogmatic in my opposition to re-using portions of an old layout.  I do understand the need to conserve material, time, money, etc, and it seems wasteful to throw it all way and start over.  The trouble is, re-using an old layout forces your hand when designing the new one.  My current layout is the way it is in large part due to trying to use some modules I had already built.  Just for fun one day, I sat down and drew my "dream layout" using exactly the same space I have available now but starting from scratch.  I managed to get nearly twice the usable layout into the same space, because I was not severely constrained by my modules.

That taught me an important lesson.  Unless the module or old benchwork is literally perfect for the new layout, it will force design compromises that will haunt the layout as long as you have it.  It's far better to tear it down, salvage the material wherever possible, and start fresh.

Agree to a point

Ken,

I do agree with you to a point, that some sections would either be no good, or too short or for what other reason.  but I feel keeping at least some of the straight sections are always a good thing...I too was in the same boat-although I started out by building the layout before fully knowing the space, and then trying to incorporate that section in...well lets say the recycle depo came in and then it was gone...but I am a firm believer, that if you can try to save a buck and re-use a section-get right down to the plywood first then go for it.

Don't wait

I've moved twice since early 2009 and I may move again in mid-2012. Don't wait to build. From the notes in the margin of the plan space, it seems you have a focus on your goals. If you feel this is too much to begin building all at once, then start on a segment and get it running. Add more as you feel comfortable. But it seems you are ready to start something. If you have concerns about moving then build sectional benchwork that will fit through the exit doors. 

I agree with a previous post about not reusing portions of an old layout. Sometimes you are bringing along old problems as well. But the layout can be stripped off of the benchwork sections. I've reused and modified old benchwork sections and leg units for a newer layout project.

Eric

would I? yes

But maybe the question should be "Is this something I should use to build a layout" 

That is an awfully big space (assuming 12" grid)  for some one who stated  -I am not a pro when it comes to make really neat layouts, but like to create.  Perhaps you would be better served by using only a portion of that space and the time to hone the skills for the next time.  By using a smaller, and more manageable, layout you could do it 2-3 times over and be better prepared for the next space.  If it never comes you still have the current space. If the new space is not what you wanted/thought it was going to be you are still good to go.

There are many numbers out there on what a RR cost per square foot but to be fair and simple lets use $100/ft - benchwork, scenery, track (but NOT locos and rolling stock).  Structures can go either in the figure and remember to included do overs in the cost.  Anyway, at a $100 a foot you have a lot of squares there IMHO.

With simple planing many of the parts, and the more expensive parts, can be recycled.  Saving chuck of the layout will work, but you may be better off having preplanned for recycling instead. Switches that are not soldered to the track can easily be reused. Depending on how your bench work is designed and used, it can still provide you with a clean slate for the next round.  David Barrow did this frequently with his dominoes.  Scrap off the top, lay new homasote and he was good to go again. I have recently been moving away from caulk for laying track and using straight Elmers glue.  With a little misting of wet water it will come and most will be reusable.  You may have to have a track nail or two in it if/when you ballast it but it will work just fine, even with the springy Atlas track. 

By considering a smaller space to use and doing it a few times you still get a RR, a chance improve your overall skills and still feed that need to create

Steve

$100.00 per square foot may be high.

You can cover the entire layout with "store bought" ground foam, but dirt is free if you just dig it up out of the back yard.  Just run a magnet through the dirt, and pick up a flower strainer from the "household section" of your local super market to strain your dirt to "scale size."

Learn to scratch build structures.  Card board is either cheap or free.  Check out the enclosed link.  Robin passed away a few years ago form cancer, but he built every single model in the link from empty cereal boxes in N-scale!

To see the pictures, you will need to register and log in; but it is free to join.

http://www.zealot.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=267

And then again maybe not

Everything you said is true Russ but if the same modeler uses one HO c 83 turnout for $35 & $15 for a tortoise motor he is at $50 quickly .  A few more dollars in benchwork and wiring.  Then there is track to connect to that turnout, some store bought scenery to tie it all together.  That's not including any do overs the DC or DCC averaged in etc.  And yes using hydrocal dipped paper towels are cheaper than plaster cloth but it still has a cost. Glue, ballast, backdrops etc all add up quickly.

Yards are more expensive than rural single track mainline and structures will add to the cost.  Remember the OP stated -I am not a pro when it comes to make really neat layouts, so making cereal box structures may get beat out by a kit or RTR structure.

You can easily exceed the $100 mark if you have good taste and want a square foot of Pete Vassler's AMAZING trees or just have to have that out of production Walther's kit that one E Bayer has listed for 7 times the MSRP.  Shoot, an in production kit is almost $50 now

But lets say you shop smart, get deals, little to no waste or do overs and use some natural products - over priced E bay products are smartly avoided - and get it down to say $75 or even $50 that's still a lot a squares that the OP might be better served with a smaller and more manageable layout.

Steve

cost has been factored in

With costs in mind, I have a friend who will be building my switches with fast tracks, worked out an agreeable deal there, then there is the Power system, which is a big kick at first.  I plan to re-use the sections once they are stripped.  I spike my track down, and have used white glue, so re-using track and switches, I can remove quite well. As for control of the switches, most will be manual and a few would be powered, but that will be by the system I am using-Rail Pro from Ring engineering.  I have most of my cars and engines already, so for me its just getting the track and plywood in the new year and I am off.  As for Ebay, unless there is a good deal on an engine or car, I stay off of it for  a reason.  As for a smaller layout, that is still plausible, I have a lot of time, being off on a medical leave and being posted by the dr as disabled at current, so I am playing around with ideas...and my other layout I was going to go with was bigger...but still fit in the space that I am working with...

But keep the thoughts coming...they are helping...once I have a track plan in that space I will post here and we will take another look at it

Today's format

Let me know your thoughts...I still have to sort out the yard track a bit better though