Do you want to be able to take the layout down & up?

If you are building in sections or modules for ease of construction, and have no intention of taking it down once it is up, don't worry about weight.  If you are planning to have it be more portable, don't use 3/4 ply.  Build your frame with your 3/4 inch birch plywood cut into 5 inch strips.  Use 1x2 strips either dimensional lumber or cut from your ply as cross members set every 12 inches on center and set 3 inches down from the top of the bench work so that your 3 inch foam will be even with the top of the bench work.  Lay out your track on a sheet of luan door skin and mark the outline of the tracks.  Then do a "cookie cutter" on the luan.  You can then glue homosote or cork to the luan to give you something to fasten the track to and quiet it somewhat, and glue the luan to the foam.

Good choice on the 3/4" for bench work

Ryan I'll share my experience with a similar construction method on my layout I just took down.  I used 5 ply, 3/4" Luan (it's cheaper in price but just a good in performance) in 3" strips to build dominos.  I choose dominos instead of the Free Mo modules.  The difference, to me anyway, is the way my ends matched the next section and not a standard.  This way I could do the track plan I chose and not worry about being constrained to someone else's plan.  My dominos were typically 4' long and 24" or 18" wide.  I tried 12" but that was too wobbly. 

The intent was not to take in up and down and drag it to shows but in case I ever sold the layout or moved... it's a good thing I did it this way as I moved the layout last week. It would have worked well for this but I never had to do it.

I'm 5'10" and this is a single level pit style layout. The base is 48" from the floor.  I used 1/4" CDX (just for the deck) ply as a deck to frames that foam sub roadbed sits on.  I have two 2" sections of foam on top of that.   That makes my track sitting just over 52" which I find a very nice height to get a good view of the trains and still be able to reach into the corner.  When working on the layout, especially towards the back or corners, I found having a 3 step stool handy. 

When I took the layout down I had 3 sections on my longest side together - 1@ 3' and 2@ 4' dominos for a total of 11' and all at 24" wide - I really didn't feel like braking them down further to move this section. Although the 11' was a little weldy, it was very light and very easy to tote around.

When I constructed it I did not use pocket screw but predrilled for but joints and glue.  I know SPShastaRoute has used pocket screws and shared his thoughts on this thread https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/wood-what-is-better-12188818.  I also have a few photos in that thread too if you want to look at the construction. 

I would do the frames from cabinet grade ply again.  I would not do the foam again. Here in California it is harder to find and too expensive for me to consider again - and this is my 3rd foam layout.  I'm not familiar with homasote/homaboard so I can not comment on that aspect. I used cork and was happy with that

I would highly recommend a modular/domino method to anyone to consider if its right for them.

I would highly recommend 54" as a good starting height for someone to check out. I strongly suggest you do a mock up to see what works for you best.  Get a 2' wide section of cardboard tape it to the wall and try it out, reach in, look at car # etc. Try a little lower, try a little higher.

Right now the 11' section is on its side (the undercarriage is visible) and very accessible but I can't say for how much longer as more boxes keep getting added. Let me know if you would like some more pictures not covered in the already mentioned thread. 

I also have this thread for a bunch of photos that might help too http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k256/ratled/Klamath%20sub%20ver%201%20last%20day/

OK, I'm a little tired from moving boxes and I'm getting to the rabble stage. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions

Steve

Modules

So far I built two layouts in sections (not modules because they were not interchangeable) with the intention of being able to disassemble and move them to a new location fairly intact. Used L girders as framework with sections sitting on top. Lots of planning both times. And lots of frustration when they did not fit anywhere upon moving. But learned a lot.

Framing for Modules

Ryan - I think your choice will be fine.  As long as the ends are "very square and parallel" it will mate to the next module, and your choice of materials and methods will support keeping it that way after many moves.

I have 2 modules built 5 years ago to use with my club.  Framing is 1/2" birch veneer ply from HD.  I used no screws.  I butted the corners with glue and let it dry.  Then drilled each corner for 1/4" dowels, 2" long.  This was very strong and very light.

The first one had a top deck of thin luan plywood.  Sold as 1/4", but it measures thinner.  I put 2" pink Styrofoam on top of that, covering the whole module.  Then my track was on cork roadbed.  The foam is a bit noisier than just cork on plywood.  However, during an actual show there is so much background noise this is not noticeable.

The second module had a top deck of 1/2" birch plywood.  A bit heavier.  But it had the same 2" foam and cork roadbed.

Biggest thing I noticed was it's easy to strip screws in the thin luan.  I liked the birch better for that.  All the tortoise motors were screwed in place, so I had plenty of practice.

My next module will continue with the 2" foam, but use the one-side adhesive foam tape sometimes called  "camper tape", or "Insulation tape".  It is black foam rubber with adhesive on one side.  They say it's very quiet.  But I will put cork over this as a roadbed.  This, even after ballasting, will reduce noise levels.

The next module will use 3/4" ply for the ends that join modules.  The front and back will be 1/2" ply.  I'll use the dowel method again.  I feel the ends could benefit from some added beef, plus it offers some opportunityes for alignment pins and clamping that wouldn't be the best if put into 1/2" material.

I also expect to build my sectional home layout with dominos built this way.

Just my 1.1 cents.  (That's 2 cents, after taxes.)

Kevin

1/2 plywood for sides and

1/2 plywood for sides and crossbars, 1 x 1 1/2" wood for legs, tracks on risers and 1/2 plywood, with foam landscape. Lightweight, but robust:

Like in this description by Norwegian model railroader Bjørn Runar Larsen:
http://home.online.no/~bjornrl/modulkasse.htm

Here is another build example, in three parts, by another Norwegian modeler, Svein Sando, which shows not just building the box, but also landscaping the module:
Part 1: http://www2.dmmh.no/~ses/index.php?aut=&vis=315&nid=3&engelsk=0

Part 2: http://www2.dmmh.no/~ses/index.php?vis=319&nid=3

Part 3: http://www2.dmmh.no/~ses/index.php?vis=320&nid=3

 The text is not in English - but drawings and pictures should be fairly self explanatory 

 Smile,
 Stein

Scale buildings from pics

Part 2: http://www2.dmmh.no/~ses/index.php?vis=319&nid=3

I like the method to scale buildings from pics......... and the prototype rail used as weight!.

Modular Construction

I've built my entire layout using modules (currently up to 13 modules), generally most following the FreeMo concept. Part of the reason why I choose the modules was for a future move and more importantly, I liked the idea of having a railroad that went in all sorts of directions rather than just following the some sort of dimensional oval. Of course, you need a large enough basement area, although mine roughly fits in a 9x24-foot area and is roughly shaped in an E configuration.  Angling some of the ends really allows the railroad to follow a winding scenery path, which is what I was going for as my modeled area is northern Ontario. 

All of my boxes are built using 3/4-inch birch ply cut into 5 or 6 inch widths to form the box. The only difference is I've used the 6-inch sides for scenes that are going to have a portion of the side cut away, such as a river, small lake, dam/river, etc.  I've used 2-inch pink or blue foam as the foundation for the roadbed, with the appropriate structural support provided by 1x2 or 1x3 slats under the foam as others have suggested. For any modules needing a little extra support beneath an area, I've taken extra 2x2-inch material from the legs and glued them into place beneath the foam.  The only challenge I've had with the foam is mounting turnout controls. This was solved by removing some of the foam and gluing a piece of luann ply to the bottom of the foam and then inserting the tortoise to the luannThe advantage to this method is that my modules are light-weight and easy to transport for some of the FreeMo meets that I've attended.

My Silver Valley RR is a

My Silver Valley RR is a modular layout. In January I will take my modules to the FREMO meeting in Unna. Only Silver Creek will stay at home, the car is full !!

 And the modules as boxes for the way to the 3rd convention in Rodgau, GERMANY.

Wolfgang

Modular Benchwork

I am using modular bench work for my layout. I rip 3/4" plywood into 1" x 4" dimensional lumber (0.75 " x 3.50").  I use 1/2" plywood for tops.  The layout will eventually be attached to the walls with L girders and braces, but is currently using 2" x 2" pocket legs.  The layout sections are bolted together with 1/4" bolts. 

Modular dimensions

I would go with whatever the dimensions and construction standards are for the modular group you are planning to make your layout part of.  If you are planning to make it part of a Freemo layout, then use Freemo construction standards.  If you are making it part of an N-Trak layout lthen make it to N-Trak standards.  I have know people who made models to their own standards and then were disappointed because their modules weren't compatible with the modular layout group.

If you are just making the layout just for you in your own house with no plans to make it part of a club set up, then it technically isn't a "modular" layout, its a "sectional" layout.  A "modular" design has standard construction and standard ends of a standard width and height with standard electrical fittings to "plug into" a modular layout.  A sectional layout has non-standard connections between layout sections and can only be assembled in one arrangement.

size of your staging yard

The staging yard Fiddletown is made of four segments, each 70cm (~2 1/3 ' ). I can use 2, 3 or all four segments. In my basement I use 3 segments, at FREMO meetings 4 segments. Then you can store longer trains. Therefore I've made those extensions.

Salina is made of four segments, each 80cm ( ~2.6 ' ) and 55cm wide (nearly 2' ).

Pictures from a meeting are  e.g. here

Wolfgang

Modules, noise.

Ryan- I sounds like you're choosing some good directions.  Good choice.  MRR had an article on noise.  Don't recall which issue.  The track on foam is, as you've observed, noisy.  In fact, the noisiest.  But they said they had good success with that foam tape against the styrofoam base.  With any roadbed, either cork or homosote.  I saw some 2-inch wide foam tape at Home Depot in the insulation section, and I think I'll experiment with it. 

I like the sound of wheels on track, but not so much as the styrofoam makes.  Especially as I look forward to adding sound to some locos.

Ken S. - I would like to know more how you attached the Tortoise under the track.  That's been a small issue for me.

I made a linkage to pass thru the 2" foam and also the 1/2" ply.  A 3/32" brass tube was glued into the table top.  I used a piece of 1/16" brass tube inside it, to rotate.  I soldered some piano wire into it and bent the top end into a 90-degree angle, with another small 90 to hook into the turnout throwbar.  Underneath I screwed on a bellcrank from a radio-control airplane.  This let me take out the inside piece for adjusting or whatever.  I could position the Tortoise anwhere around the bellcrank.  Just loosen the setscrew and move it to wherever needed.  Then I screwed the Tortoise under the plywood.

But it's too much work.  Not impossible, but a lot for one turnout.  My 2 modules had 14 turnouts on them, so it was the better part of 3 weeks to accomplish it.

Any other ideas area welcome!

thanks,

Just my 1.1 cents.  (That's 2 cents, after taxes.)

Kevin

Layout Space

In 2005, my wife retired from teaching.  She built her dream home above my 30' x 60 (1800 sq ft) dream basement.  I don't have a track plan to post, but the layout runs around the walls of the basement with a long narrow blob running the center of the basement.  Unfortunately I lost my job two days before we moved in.  I have another job, but it is 500 miles from the basement and I get home one weekend a month to work on the layout.  We will return to live there full time when I retire, some time in the next ten years.

I started using modular layout sections over twenty years ago.  Some of the modules are from my first layout.  (I have scraped the scenery and tack off the tops, and re-used the modules.)  I used to assemble my modules with drywall screws, but a brad nailer for my birthday changed my construction methods.  I have the local lumber yard cut my wood; and use a chop saw to cut the wood to length.  My oldest modules were constructed in an apartment with a Sears 14v Cordless Drill (drywall screws) and a 14v Sears 5" circular trim saw.

Modular construction makes for easy modification of the layout.  If I don't like the track plan I can remove modules and add new ones.  I can move towns and passing sidings until I get something I like.  I will not start scenery until I am satisfied with the track plan.

Hi Ryan

Hi Ryan,

this may not work for you, but here's how I'm doing it "modular".  Let me know if you have any questions.

Layout planning and module construction
Store bought bench work
Module 1
Module 2
Module 3
Module 4

Jobs

Jim - sorry to hear about the job situation.  That's hard on the family, much less the train progress.  Hopefully something else suitable that's close by will materialize soon.

Yeah, modules, or at least sections, seem very reasonable for the base benchwork.  Seems like "everyone" in Europe does it, and hardly anybody in "USA" does it.  Us 'mericans seem to enjoy the 'chainsaw' scenario.  I just downloaded XTrack CAD and am starting to finalize my plan.  I want to see exactly where turnouts fall so I can set the lengths of the modules.  I don't want a module joint going thru a turnout. 

One of my friends is preparing for retirement 5 years from now by rebuilding his layout into removable sections.  Presently it's a classic American "l-girder" frame, all one piece over the whole room.  No places on it where the structure separates.

module joint going thru a turnout

module joint going thru a turnout is no problem. You have only to avoid going through the frog or points.

This turnout at my Third Street Industrial District is in operation since 1994 and was this this module at a few FREMO meetings.

Wolfgang

A couple of thoughts for you.

Jim - What are the dimensions of your space?  Do you have a track plan you can share?  I'm still trying to grasp what can fit on a module (domino).

What track plan you can fit on a domino will depend on a bunch of variables.  What equipment do you want to run, and what sort of railroad are you modeling?  If you are modeling a short line with small locomotives in the 1930's, 1940's, or early 1950's you will be running mostly 40 &  some 50 foot cars.  If you are going to also feature passenger trains, you will need to allow for large radius curves regardless of the size of your locomotives because 85 foot passenger cars need a large radius to operate without derailments, but industrial areas that won't see a passenger train can be built with a smaller radius.  Minimum curve radius and minimum turnout size will determine what will fit on a domino.  Here is a valuable tool for determining minimum curve radius from issue #1.

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/mrh2009-01/curve_insights

Secondly, if you fasten your track down with something like caulk, instead of making it too permanent, you can change what doesn't work without a chain saw.  In my opinion, no matter how well you plan, you will probably find some areas of the design that don't work as well as you thought or will think of a better way of doing things.  Caulk or similar mounted track can be picked up and moved or modified easily with a putty knife.   The corollary to that is don't do the scenery until you have run trains on the bare  table top to make sure the layout works for you.

For instance, in one of his early "Trains of Thought" columns in MR back in the 1980's, Tony Koester said that he designed the Allegheny Midland for 3 unit diesels pulling 15 car trains.  After building the railroad, he decided that 20 car trains looked much better, and the 15 car trains were too short.  Some of his passing sidings could be lengthened, but others he just had to live with them being too short for the trains that he wanted to run.

How to connect rail across modules?

Ryan - an idea about modules

This is just a crazy idea.  Help you choose from so many good idea.  Why not get the standards of N-Trak and at least two HO-scale modular groups who have issued standards.  Study the construction details for two distinct and opposing requirements.

Pushing in one direction is strength, durability, resistance to temperature/humidity expansion contraction.

Pushing in another direction is detachability, section-ability, and in your case, less so, but still possibly relevant, portability.

To me, there's third set of factors that may or may not appeal to you.  Some writers mention these issues but I don't see them considered often enough in trackplanning books, booklets and articles:  a) ability to clean track quickly and alone;b) ability to read car numbers; and c) ability to pick up cars if your uncoupling method of choice isn't working.  Yes, this leads to benchwork because, you want depth, and a lot of legs for sturdiness, but you want narrowness, and fewer legs for access above and below.

After you see what these standards are -- and I admit that N-Trak may be conservative if it has not been updated over the years -- then you'll want to put your own imprint on the dominoes and choose the materials that you like.

A personal opinion:  I would make an effort not to overlook what is going on in Canada, Europe, Australia, New Zealand and Japan.  We in the USA may not always think inside the box.  But perhaps we do a wee bit.  I thank MRH for providing one of these forums that allow for in depth exchange of ideas.

Styrene-based "drop-in" track sections

Dear BigEd,

Styrene-based "drop in" track sections, with their own ballast, and "slide accross" railjoiners to pass power and mechanically lock them in place, are _very_ do-able. Personal experience with shinohara HO/HOn3 dualgauge, and Peco N gauge suggests a service life in heavy-duty exhibition/"train show" work of over 8+ years is easily achieveable.

Using a styrene "ballasted" drop-in section nicely hides the jarring "front to back geological fault", and in some cases can significantly asssist in reliable running over modules which use "mechanically flexible" (lack-of)alignment systems. A 0.010"+ horizontal mis-alignment in a flush railjoint system is an instant showstopping derailment generator, the same 0.010" misalignment over even a 2" linear length is a minor "joggle", but nothing near enough to cause show-stopping derailments...

Just make sure you use some decent 2-part epoxy to bond the Peco sleepers to the styrene...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Pictures of the reflective front valance concept

Here are some pictures of the plastic reflective material I found at my local hardware chain (OSH in California).  And what it does to the lighting
 

Opened Roll with lights off

Opened Roll with lights on

It’s rather like a flattened bubble wrap, with a mirror like metalized finish added on both sides. Very light and slightly stiff, it comes as a roll, 24” wide and about 1/8 thick.

I will be slicing it into 12” wide strips and hanging it as a valance curtain from the front edge of the lighting lighting support beams. This is just a test hanging. It will be spaced further out from the lights and hung vertically, with the lower edge just above most peoples eye height. The modules below are at standard Free-Mo height, so you will seem to be looking into a museum style diorama like box, with the backdrop at the rear. But operators behind can reach down over the backdrop un-incumbered by a lit ceiling.

Here’s are two camera shot comparisons of the front view model 00 scale bus with just the OH lights, and with the valance in place.

Lights on, no valance.

Lights on, valance at full depth.

Andy - Please check your pixs

Andy

Please check your pictures.  I would like to see them.

I don't know if it is just my computer, but all I got was the dreaded red "x's". 

No pics showing

Hi Andy,

I also get the dreaded red "X's".

Are you uploading them to MRH or using some other method?

un3k

old IE VS MRH pics